Bull

iTrader: (5)

Let's say you pull up the carpet on your thirdgen and find that while the mojority of the floor still wears the factory paint, there are several areas where rust has begun to take hold, with maybe a small hole or two and some crunchy areas. Obviously, the rust will have to be sanded, chemically neutralized, and prevented from returning with some Master Series.

My question is, is there any sense on spending time to completely remove the factory paint on the entire floor, even the clean unrusted areas, to then apply a Master Series or POR-15-type coating? Or, should the healthy paint be left alone, with the idea being that if it has lasted for the last 15 years, it will probably last a few more?

Thanks for any suggestions.

1989karr

that sounds like my car lol "crunchy" and a few holes....which are now fixed though.

Personally, I roughed it up with at least 100 grit and applied some nice thick coats of POR-15. I mean ALL of it, from the front of the floorpans to the hatch area (still working on it). Behind the front footwells back to the hatch looked pristine, but I did it anyways as extra precautions. Plus since I already bought the POR-15, it isn't really costing me anything to do lol

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

When you address and fix the problem areas, youll never see the floor again unless you periodicly remove and clean your carpet like I do

THe paint will hold up fine as long as you have the car if you keep a routine mantenance schedule on it

Bein under the car often take a look around and see if theres any spots forming like during oil changes etc

Keeping rust at bay will prevent needing to fix anymore

If you get alot of water on your interior Id seriously suggest some sort of aftermarket carpet
Factory carpet is rubber backed to keep water from getting behind it, but instead it only keeps water from escaping

eddie jr

unless it is a show car or one that sees winter weather, just worry about the noticeable spots......unless you want to do all that work. It will last if it doesn't see moisture. If you use POR15 though, don't bother putting it over the paint as it will do nothing for you (even though it looks like you have more protection you don't). It has to go over bare metal.

I did the whole floor infront of the drivers seat a few years ago with POR15 (all 3 stages) and it still looks like the day I put it on even after moisture got under there again before I truly fixed the leak. But again, that was over bare metal (formerly rust).

Bull

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I think I am going to just sand the loose rust and paint in the affected areas, then apply Ospho and Master Series and hope for the best.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

ospho? master series?
got a link?

what about that rubberish goop that's on the "plugs"? Removing that crud?

Bull

iTrader: (5)

Here's the Oshpo link:

Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

I would never tackle a rust job without it.

Here's the Master Series link:

The MasterSeries Coating Line Rust Paints & Coatings: Stop Rust Permanently!

Better than POR, I think. I learned about it from an autobody guy who swears by it and uses it exclusively.

As for any rubberish goop I encounter on the floors, I'll use a combination of Goo Gone, gasoline, paint thinner, whatever I find works best. It can't be any worse to get off than all that nasty old weatherstrip adhesive I had to remove to change my t-top seals last week.