RaGe

Stumbled on this stuff yesterday.. Very interesting.. I wouldn't paint my Formula with it, but maybe one of my future beaters!

Basicly it consists of buying high quality rollers, rustoleum paint, and mineral spirits to thin the paint.. Then doing around 6 coats of paint and wet sanding in between each coat. Then buffing the final coat.

Results speak for them selves, looks better then some paint jobs I've seen.. Supposedly you can get it done for under $50..

Here are the links and pics:

pics of vw and charger

paint - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


whole thread:

moparts: paint job on a budget!?


last page of thread, includes a nice almond white bug and an unbuffed camaro

moparts: paint job on a budget!?


pics of a 80s camaro painted white, not yet finished or buffed:

camaro.liquidfaith.com - 20060423 3rdCoat/IMG 7816

mateo

Im only experienced in rattle can painting...but what I have done Ive learned that no matter how crappy your painting skills are if you have good wetsanding skills itll always look good.

mateo

Really interesting....ive been wanting to paint a beater for a looong time...might have to try this on my friends LeBaron that has clear coat by the sheets comming off

Bull

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm. Thanks for the links and info. I have an old fender in my barn that I think I will try this on. The cars in the pics look decent, for sure.

ezliving4ume

iTrader: (1)

SOMEONE PLEASE TRY THIS!!

RaGe

Also the black VW in the first link is sprayed on with Duplicolor paint, so that picture is not the roll on job.

mateo

If you read the thread he says its a dark blue and was done with roll-on.....or thats what I understood from glancing over it.

Kyuusei

Hmm well sure it sounds cheap, but you'd spend more time wetsanding the damn thing after each coat than you do painting it!

I think I'm gonna stick with a spray gun

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Who the hell has the money for a 68-70 Charger then no money to paint it?

Either way, not my cup of tea. It looks decent and all, but those cars don't have the mirror-finish that they would with a Urethane paint job.

mateo

Definently not for everybody but I can def see why someone would choose this, never would I try this on my T/A but if I had a S##t box Id have no problem trying it.

RaGe

I wondered that myself on the Charger... quite odd... I know I would have a great looking professional job done on such a nice car.

Definatly not a mirror like finish.. I might use that setup on a 4x4 or a beater car/truck...
----------
The orange VW and Charger are done with the roll on, the dark blue VW is in fact a spray job. He said he had around $250-300 in supplys for the spray job on the blue one.

He also said that thinning the rustoleum/tremlock made for a great paint to spray with.

Its a very long thread on the whole subject, but there is a lot of info in there.

Like I said earlier, I wouldn't paint one of my nicer cars with a roller, but its right on for a junker.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

I just feel for the people that ever buy one of them cars. And trys to paint it again. Man thats going to suck. Rollers and brushs are for houses.

RaGe

Why? You pretty much know what your getting into when you look at a paint job like that..

To me taking a DA and roughing up the stock paint vs rustoleum/whatever isn't going to be that much difference.

If you have good reasons I'm open to them!

BLACK ICE

I painted my IROC with rustolem paint but i didnt use a roller I used a spray gun and it turned out pretty good! Its all in the wetsanding. I wish I coulda found a clearcoat though it woulda looked even deeper.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

cuz all of that paint would have to be striped off if you ever want to paint it with say dupont. The solvents in the base coat will make that paint bubble right up. Here is a pic of my car back in the back(before I knew better) That I painted the jams with rustolem. Was not pretty when i tried to spray it again. And don't get any other strong sovents on it. Might eat right through it.(brake cleaner, carb cleaner ect ect)

So that why it would suck for someone that did not know it was paint with that stuff. And they try to just sand it down and paint it. They are going to have a huge mess.
But this is just my 2 cents. I know how it is to want to make your car look better and not have the cash to give to a body shop.. One of the ressons i got into doing bodywork.

Mythos

ok for the record, more money will be going to actual body panels then paint so I may try this.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Unless that paint is a lacquer, the new paint won't lift it. The older rustoleum you used was probably a lacquer, but I highly doubt that this brush-on paint the guy used is a lacquer. Lacquer doesn't work well in thicker applications necessary for brushing on. That stuff has to be an enamel of some sort, which won't be lifted by the newer paints.

Even for some reason if it was a lacquer paint, as long as you put down a coat of epoxy sealer before you paint your basecoat, it'll prevent it from lifting.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it was lacquer paint. But it was long time ago. but o well I think I'm going to stick with useing paint that is made of cars.

TheWesman

I read the whole artical yesterday, the orange charger pictures on the last couple pages of threads looked dam nice. But he used a Canadian product called Tremclad.

If the results can be repeated using rustoleum, I will do it. That method has some serious advantages.

1) Can paint without a booth.
2) Future touch up/and repair is super cheap, easy, and fast.
3) Whole car painted can be painted less than $100 including tools
4) Tremclad, if what the poster says is true, might be more durable than most auto paint.
5) If the whole process is done right, no brush or roller marks.
6) Paint self levels no runs
7) If wetsanding done right, no orange peel.
8) Can expose paint job to rain, 10 hours after painting.
9) Mirror finish is possible just like spraying.
10) Less contaminates than spraying if environment isn't 100% clean
11) No overspray issues and fumes
12) No more work than other quality paint jobs, might even be less
13) Results seem as good as sprayed single stage auto paint.
14) Might age better than most auto paint

Downsides seem to be the following.
1) Lacks the always "wet" look of BC/CC paint
2) Metallics and Pearls don't work
3) Painting/Masking for two tone or Rally stripes probably can't be done well
4) US rustoleum might not work as well as Canadian Tremclad
5) Have to wetsand and polish
6) Clear coating doesn't give a "wet" look
7) Have to hand wetsand the whole car 3-4 times
8) Have to roll on 6 or more coats
9) Might be incompatable with future sprayed jobs.

I'm going to give it a test on a old fender I have. If my results are as repeatable, like the article poster's, I'm going to do it.

TheWesman

CYARS92

I can't believe people are even talking about this subject!!!! When your all done with your cars, come on over I got a barn that needs paintin.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

I'm surprised people are so ignorant as to what method is used to apply paint. "It's rolled on?!! EWWW MUST BE FOR A HOUSE!" I think quality of the paint job is more important. I don't care if the car was driven through a paint waterfall- as long as it looks good. I personally am skeptical as to how long it'll last and how it withstands dings/dents/daily use.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

Y is it ignorant. Theres right ways to do something and wrong ways.. Than theres the u just should not do ways. This is one of them.

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

Hahahah. Am I the only one who finds that ironic? Basically it gives good results for cheap but "theres the u just should no do ways". If that's not the very definition of ignorance then I don't know what is.

CYARS92

When talking about painting cars, "roll on" & "quality paint job" is the KING of oxymorons. If you believe that, then I'd like to sell you a new tire/wheel combo milled out of a hunk of aluminum. Won't ever go flat, tread depth is not an issue and they ride like crap, but hey, the quality's great!!
Do your car first and post some pics..... PLEASE!

Toehead

I have a winter beater truck i might have to try this on. That blue beetle looks amazing. Who knows, if it comes out that good, the camaro might be next.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

U know I was just thinking (thats not good)since its rustoleum no need for primmer. Save a few more bucks there. And If u put it on thick enuff. U don't even have to worrie about filling small dents.... And for the bigger dents hell just get some tar and fill them up. That will save u some more cash. And make sure no one ever leans on your bumper.
DUMPSTER

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

Did you even read that thread? People tried the method with great results apparently so who cares if I try it or not. I'm not about to try it, I can afford quality stuff to spray and know how to use it.

net_coma

iTrader: (3)

Anyone have a Ford?

CYARS92

Great results is sooo subjective! Look at the pictures, not one of them has a deep shine. So I'm gathering your not about to try it because it's poor quality right?
It is just like the thread title say's, A poor man's paint job. If that's all some can afford then I'm glad for em. I just hope they have a lot of time on their hands. In the one moparts forum the guy say's he's into the 4TH HOUR of drying ON THE SIXTH COAT and he still has bad spots to fix! I can do a base/clear in 4 hours and it's done minus the buffing. It's literally got to take them a week just to paint a car not including the bodywork!

TheWesman

Look at these:


http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03362.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03363.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03375.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03384.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03390.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03403.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03405.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03406.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03407.JPG
http://phorce1.us/bug74/charger/DSC03410.JPG

Looks alot like a typical single stage paint to me.

Not too bad if it can be had for $50 bucks.


TheWesman

NoItsNotForSale

iTrader: (1)

I just shot my 4X4 with black single stage enamel. Came out great for the $50 I spent on it.

purpleZ-28

wow. im sorry but if you love your car, why would you ever go to this? id rather spray 99 cent walmart rattle can black onto mine. i WOULD do this if i had a 4X4 however. but still, you really do get what you pay for out of a paint job, and if it includes ROLLERS and RUSTOLEUM, you are not getting any good quality whatsoever.
you know, spraying your car flat black with a rattle can is also cost effective.

purpleZ-28

yeah my house needs a new coat, whos up to it!?

foney_email

right now a lot of you are like the guys in the first 5 pages of the thread. I read all 33+ pages of the moparts.org link and I have to say that it looks very promising.

These pics you are seeing are all without the clearcoat. I want to see other paints without clear to compare. They will look very similar.

Now he is going to try out the clear, which has been tested by tremclad to have "thinned with lacquer thinner (instead of mineral spirits) that the reflective properties of the finish at 60degrees was 90%!!!!"

Pretty close to mirror finish if you ask me. But what is pretty close? According to Hotrod magazine 100% perfect paint job costs double of a 90% paint job. So if someone were to spend $6000 on an 80 or 90% perfect job instead of $10,000 or more for 100%, that is pretty close too.

You can't get a 100% perfect job with a roller. With time, patience and practice you can get closer. 60%, 70%? Adding the clear that makes a damn near mirror finish maybe 80%+. You do it yourself, so you know everything is just how you want it. You roll sand polish buff, and $50 later you have paintjob that can nearly match any single stage paint, and then add clear to surpass any job you would expect to come out of a roller. But then it will cost you $70 with clear.

The result: A paintjob that looks awesome from 10 feet away, great from 5 feet, and upclose, "OMG you did this with a roller, no freakin way!". Just look at the pictures. They rock. The blue beetle from the netherlands, or where ever. There were a couple of civics, the toyotas, several vw's, and 69chargeryeehaa's charger and bug. I would never question his charger if I saw it on the street. Did you look at the results before condemning it.

I know it's cheap, and has shortcommings. Why spend $70 for good enough, when even $2000 might be better. Well why run a stock rear, when a 9'' is better, or a t-5 when a t-56 is better, or a platinum plug when $12 irridium plugs are better. Why use glass when lexan is better? gasoline compared to alcohol?

The roller method isn't used anymore because spraying a car is easier, if you have a booth, a compressor, a gun, and know how to thin the paint properly.

Unfortunately for these guys(and most of us), those materials were not available, so they did it the same way as the model t and other old cars, with a roller.

No one is professing that this is a better way, just a different way to achieve a good paintjob. You might not win shows with it, but almost no one will question the validity of the paint. I couldn't tell. Maybe you could, but it still looks better than it would if he was waiting to save up for a new paint job, with cracked, faded or peeling paint.

Read the 30+ pages and it may change your narrow concept of what it takes to get a good paintjob on a car. I say this with respect for those of you who know much more than me, there are many. I am going to go full out and test this on an extra vehicle (90 mitsu galant). If it works I might be able to lay a good paint job on my T/A. If I don't like it, I can always have some one paint over it. This paint is able to be painted over again. It has lasted 5 or more years on some of these cars with little to no fading. When he did a touch up 5 years later, it matched perfectly. At least I don't need to build a booth, have a respirator, and worry about 50% of the paint being in the air, instead of on the car. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't, but I will soon find out from experience rather than seeing others fantastic results. I also won't ruin my T/A just yet, because I get to test it first. Pics will come.

Anyway, I will end my rant. I am not trying to start an argument, but to make the idea of rollering a car, with professional results, a valid concept.

Thanks
Jay

Bull

iTrader: (5)

Well-stated, foney.

This method has me excited. No, I would not use it on my '69 GTO that is worth a lot of money (and which already has an expensive paint job on it).

I would try it on my '77 GP, which needs to be redone after years of living outside in the elements.

If you have the finances to spend thousands of dollars on expensive paint jobs for multiple cars, then more power to you.

I, for one, am not so lucky. On a teacher's salary, with multiple cars to care for, a method like this one gives me an option. I am going to experiment with it on a spare fender or hood and see what happens. The results I achieve will guide me as to what I ultimately end up doing.

Financial realities are tough, but those of us who need to cope with them on limited resources are happy to have options to explore, no matter how unorthodox they may first appear.

I have only read through about 8 pages of that Mopar thread, but the guy who used this method doesn't come off as being a "quack" to me.

Opinions will continue to vary, I am sure, but that's ok.

CYARS92

Good luck with that. No respectable painter is going to "paint over" 4-6 coats of Rustoleum.

r0nin89

foney_email

For only a $50 buy-in, I would just sand the crap off myself.

It takes about twice as long to paint as a spray paint job, but I don't consider time that I spend working on a car to be time wasted.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...5-IMG_2802.jpg
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...9-IMG_2805.jpg
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...4-IMG_2798.JPG

I would just post these pics but they are huge!
This is high def of a black roller job. I can't tell that it was rolled on. Looks really nice to me.

this guy had really good results too.


I am excited about this idea, especially about the black pics above.

I think this is a viable option, but I really won't know until I see it myself.

Hopefully I can get everything together and get some nice pics soon.

85z28guy

I did this on a fiberglass boat and it looked AMAZING. Wouldn't hesitate if I had a car needing paint but had no money. The key was to build up a REALLY good base (or else edges came through), make sure it is REALLY dry, and not to get fish eyes.

Bull

iTrader: (5)

The more pics of this I see, the more excited I get. That third coat pic above looks amazing for a roller-job, period.

Whoah, just clicked on those three images of the black, as well...it just got even better.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

I never said don't use a roller. (at least I don't think i did)I know how it is to want something to look better and not be able to do it. My thing is use paint that is made for a car. If u use so single stage paint this would work just fine. Its going to take alot of time and wet sanding. But don't use house paint on a car.. U ever see outside tables and chairs after a year sitting out side they look like crap.

85z28guy

This isn't "house paint". Its an enamel made for METAL items (well atleast tremlclad is) I agree though, I would try it with a cheap single stage.

TheWesman

It's more than just a furniture paint, they use the stuff to paint theme park rides, and highway stripes.

TheWesman

j dezzy

iTrader: (12)

My buddy painted his 68 firebird with rustoleum paint. Except he used a gravity gun. It looks really good. One thing that I've noticed over the years is that even someone with the littlest bit of painting knowledge can do a good paint job. Take your time, make sure all the prep work is done, and make sure you wet sand, and it'll come out nice.

92RS(real slow)

this reminds me of a funny stroy my dad told me one time back in the day he used to work at a gas station, and they used to have a tow truck, and one day my dads boss told him was going to paint the truck....and my dad was like okay ive never sprayed anything before, and his boss was like dont worry about it. So he goes outside hands my dad a rolller, and a can of paint, and told him to paint... he was like what? he did it and when he was done he said it actually didn't look to bad, and the boss told him it looked great talk about *******

redbird8628

iTrader: (1)

im in need of paint on my used faded red formula bumper, ill be trying this next friday, $400.00 vs $30.00 and time...hmmmm

Derek The Great

'fraid not.. Paint bubbling up is commonly refered to as a "fisheye" Paint does this because something on the surface is repeling it away, like silicone, or grease. before you paint you always want to clean the areas to be painted really good.

Derek The Great

A quality job comes from quality products and technique... i bet that firebird wasnt a metallic or pearl paint job, and since it was rustoleum i doubt it has any clear coat on it either.. Paints with no metallic or pearl are easier to spray than those with metallics or pearls... Candys are even harder, as they require a base coat of some other color bfore you can lay down the candy. Metalics can b tricky to spray if the metalic content is high, like silver.. the type and brand of spray gun u use will make a differnece in the finished prduct too.

purpleZ-28

yup. so why, again, would anyone paint their car with it?

sorry, i just think its wrong. plus, my dads a real good painter (cars anyhow) and i got a 2 story 4 car shop. thats all i need to get the job done right.