Anyone have a part number or source to buy the door lock strikers for '92 'Birds? My Formula could benefit from a new set so I don't have to slam the door shut. Checked Rockauto, they don' t have any listed in their online catalog, can't find them online at NAPA either. Many thanks in advance.

 

you might need to get your doors aligned, thirdgens are known for there sagging doors thats why you may have a problem getting the to close without slamming them. check out topdownsolutions they have a kit for the door pins

 

Thanks for the reply. I will check out that company you mentioned. The reason I suspect the striker is because it, as has happened with many of my other cars, is missing the plastic collar that should be in place over the area where the door latch grabs the striker bolt. Replacing these with new units that have that collar intact has made a world of difference for me in the past on other cars.

 

If you're referring to the door striker bolt, there is no plastic collar on it. There is a plastic piece on the striker latch though. If yours is badly worn, both should be replaced.

Lon

 

Well, that is good to know. On my older cars, those striker bolts have plastic collars on them. When they disintegrate from age, you have to slam the door to get it to close.

Lon, if I wanted to replace the bolt, and the plastic piece on the latch that you mentioned, where would I find them?

 

i read up on a post in the past about somebody using the latch striker for the rear seat in our cars for the door striker. i believe they needed just a little modification, but they have the plus of having a plastic collar as you put it.

 

i just bought a door hinge pin fot 4.95 at autozone, seemed to be the best price out there

 

I just bought 2 striker bolts for my car at pepboys this weekend. Look in the "HELP!" section. I cant remeber the part number but check the help! catalogue in the store. The have them listen as the correct stiker for 70 to 81 camaros but not for thirdgens (but its the same part).

$15 for both

 

Thanks, Matthew, that helps knowing it is the same part as for a 2nd gen. By the way, did the ones you bought have that plastic collar around the body of the bolt?

 

I would suggest going to GM for both items. You don't replace the plastic piece on the latch. You replace the entire latch assembly. I've listed the GM part numbers below, just be sitting down when you look up the prices.

I had a discussion with Andy Sherrer* regarding the GM door striker bolt vs the HELP section one when he was out here last Month. Andy and I agree that you get what you pay for with the striker-bolt that is available in the HELP section of the auto parts store (cheap price=cheap quality).

GM 20464563 Door strker bolt
GM 16608234 RH Lock assy
GM 16608235 LH Lock assy

*(aka AndyZ28, who created the aftermarket door hinge repair kit I sell)

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

I came across this old thread a few days ago and was wondering if lonsal knew why GM chose to place the plastic coating on the lock latch assembly instead of the striker bolt, as was done with older cars. Was it simply to force owners to pony up for new door latches at some point as the coating wore off, or else accept perpetually rattling doors... (I know, I know, this is GM we're dealing with here). Another question centers around the differences in the lock latch part numbers, 82-87, which run about $200 each! and 88 onward, which are less the $100 each. What are the differences, and do they interchange? My Guess is not. Thanks.

 

Do you have the latch assembly?

 

Sorry no. I thought both RH and LH door latch assemblies were discontinued, but a quick google search on both numbers showed to be still available from GM.

Lon

 

The p/n's still show up via internet searches but nobody has those parts anymore that I could find. Unfortunately the latches for all thirdgens appear to have been discontinued by GM years ago. I talked to Camaro Central and Classic Industries, both of which said they have been trying to source and aftermarket manufacturer for these but have not come up with one yet. So it looks like ebay and bone yards are really the only source for the latches.

The Part numbers are as followed:

[1982 - 1987]

RH - 16608234
LH - 16608235

[1988]

RH - 20696712
LH - 20696713

1989 - 1992]

RH - 16608068
LH - 16608069

 

Somebody here has a little write up on the differences in the latches. It appears as though it's really only the clips for the rods that changed from the early to late latches. The rods may be slightly different too.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...fferences.html

With that in mind, GM trucks from that era appear to use similar latches with possibly only the lever rod attachment points being different. It may be worth a try to make a truck latch work on a thirdgen since the actual third gen latches are discontinued.

Look at DORMAN 940102 as an example. Rock Auto has an photo of this part if you want to hold it up next to your thirdgen latch for comparison. But they appear to be real similar with the plastic/rubber coating on the latch. If they can be made to work this would be a big score for our cars with worn out latches.

 

I just need the screws that hold the latch on the door

 

same for early body S10s.. they used truck latches. I think you are onto something here..

 

The bolts on early cars are counter sunk, so the latches have corresponding holes.Later years are not so.Dont know what year it changed.

 

Old thread - new question. FirebirdNYC mentions having the doors aligned. I have new hinge pins, is it possible to align the doors? If so, how. I have a newly painted 84 bird where the doors are not closing well. - Probably a combination of new weatherstrip and doors/strikers/alignment. Thanking you in a advance.
Byron

 

--Yes.
--Define not closing well. And why you didn’t align them before paint??
--First thing, without any weather stripping, did the doors shut ok? Next thing, are they aligned with the body lines?
--pictures help to see what you are dealing with.

BUT to answer your question, yes it is all adjustable, a pia, but adjustable.

 

I happened to have a few random vehicles at the shop, so here are a few pics..

 

Bk2Life, The doors shut well prior to paint. The drivers door was hanging low and acted like the striker needed to be adjusted. A jack and block were put under the door and jacked up. (Not by me) As a result the bottom of the door cracked - After the weatherstripping was installed, both doors have to be "slammed" in order to close. I have brought back to life 6 different muscle cars and still own 4 off them. I have never had this issue - I am going over to the shop, where the car is (40 miles away) - I am interested in how the PIA adjustements are done. Thanks, byron

 

bk2Life - I failed to mention that both doors had new hinges installed as well as new strikers.
Thx byron

 

if it were me, id pull the fenders, and you can get to the hinges really easily that way. The hinges are simple, like your other 6 vehicles you worked on, loosen the bolts, ge the door adjusted to open/close correctly and make sure that body line to the quarter is right on.
after that, the fenders can be reinstalled, and adjusted to the front door jamb body line. It's a pain, but not a very complicated one. FYI, i just did mine last week.

 

Aligning the door after replacing the door hinge pins and bushings is easy if you have the tool.

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/Bod...alignment-tool

Lon Salgren

 

Lonsal, bk2 - have you every used this tool? If yes, can it be used on other vehicles/door types? It looks interesting - Look forward to your response, got the door off last night, will weld it today - pack to the paint shop on Saturday - (supposed) to have the door by Wed of next week. Pretty excited about getting this car done - much more time and effort than any other car I have ever rebuilt. If this doesn't work, I will take off the fenders/to get at the hinge. Any additional info would be much appreciated. Thank you byron

 

Yes. It works well on most vehicles. One end slips over the door latch pin. Then the pin on the tool latches into the door latch. then you use a 3/4" socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to lift or lower the door to re-bend the door hinges back into their proper shape. If you have already repaired the door hinge pins and bushings and find that the door still sags and drags across the door sill plate it is because the hinges have bent due to the weight of that long and heavy door. The pin in the tool has two sizes and can be removed and reversed to match the latch. I bought a MAC TOOLS version of door alignment tool before I discovered this EZ Store alignment tool. The MAC TOOLS version is more expensive and larger, but it does the same thing as this tool. Since the EZ Store version is much smaller it is easy to store in your tool box inside the box it is packaged in. Owning this tool can make you the hero of your local car club. But again I must stress that this alignment is done AFTER you have repaired the door hinges on your door. It should not be used to try and solve a door that is dragging due to worn hinge pins and bushings. If in doubt, always first test the condition of the door hinge pins and bushings first by lifting and releasing the bottom of the opened door while inspecting the door hinges for movement. If you have slop, then repair the hinges first.

Lon

 

Lonsal - thanks, I ordered the alignment tool. Byron

 

ive used similar versions for make specific autos

but to me, a good floor jack and block of wood has done the same thing for nearly 30 years.

 

Lonsal - received my door tool - will be about 1.5 weeks till door is back from paint. I have plenty to do in the meantime. Thank you all for your help. Thx byron

 

couple months later, how'd it turn out?

 

Bk2life & lonsal - got the adjuster for the door. Took off the fender, my wife helped me to adjust the door. A simple process without the fender on - the adjuster worked awesome. The door still requires a bit of grunt to close - however, that is the new weatherstrip. Each time I open/close the door it gets easier. The ez adjuster worked as mentioned. I will keep this in my tool box for future needs. Even my bride was impressed with the ease of use. Thanks guys, sorry for not getting back to you. Thx byron