Doward

I'm curious as to how anyone welded the holes up, that the stock '88 lip spoiler uses?

Also, I'm replacing my spoiler - I'm undecided if I'm going lip, or hi-rise. If I do stay lip, though, where can I get the nuts for the studs on the 3 spoiler pieces, and are there any rubber gaskets that need to be used?

Thanks!

aerosmithr0cker

on my 91 im welding up the side piece holes and just changing the hatch with one with a hi-rise. The nuts are 11 mm speed nuts you can find at most auto parts stores in the help section in a speed nut assortment box.

Rabbitt

i couldnt find them at my part stores.. try perrypam.com if you cant... used but still work

deadbird

Well.. there is a welding alternative but, no one seems to like it even though it's pretty dammed durable (yet to hear a complaint after 7 years anyways)

You start with your hole... these particular ones are on a truck and caused from a Lund visor removed but, same crap applies...



Make sure there are no high spots... better is a little low, and grind with a 36-50grit soft disc using and angle grinder (heaver better, removes paint quick and gouges/roughens metal prettygood... do not dig!). What cannot be grounded out, wirewheel if needed (rust, etc)



Apply a skim coat of your favorite filler, let tac and apply 2nd build coat. The smoother you apply is, the easier it is to level...



* For larger holes, add some tape (at least ½" wider than the hole all around) of any kind as a backer to the hole... press the 1st coat into the hole hard. This will create a filler 'rivet' to help hold it in place and prevent cracking down the road. When done, remove the tape and apply a sealer of some sort to the backside to prevent moisture damage if exposure to weather is possible).

D/a the filler down close to final then block sand level...



Apply a sealer then your preferred high build...



Finish bodywork as per normal.

Just my opinion though..

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I got to agree with deadbird. I like that away best for holes 3/4" and smaller. I done many with tape/filler and never had a prob.

I really don't like welding on a car's body sheet metal.. Unless it's an older car.. Ours are too thin, and you build up too much heat with the welding, then grinding weld down smooth, and can wrap the sheet metal or atlleast cause waves.. Then it's a real PITA to smooth out.

I just sand, dimple hole inward alittle, put a pc. of duct tape on panel behind hole, put bondo on/over hole on top, sand filler, prime, and paint.

I been doing it like that for the last 5 years or so when shaving mirrors, locks, handles, etc

KEVIN G.

I guess I just don't get that...You are actually 80% there...All the prep is done, the same as would be done for welding, and you're just filling???
That makes absolutely no sense to me...but it's your ride
You're not even using Allmetal...or Duraglass for strength or holdout??

Rabbitt

how well does that hold up? i wanted to shave my antenna, but i dont have the money to have someone weld it. Im in the stages of getting my car ready for painting anyway, so i cant drive it, otherwise i would just have a friend of the family lead it in.

deadbird

The metod I described is a non-weld situation. There are many places that cannot allow welding w/o extreme measures I go to. For what I do it's field service for a door (not automotive) that has half a zillion holes drilled in it. It's quick, cheap, easy and durable. Even if it goes against the grain.. it does work well.

Rabbit... for such a large hole, this method wouldn't do it quite justice.
If you don't have the opp. to weld a filler in behind. A bonding adhesive will work (urethane glue, a trimmed metal backer). Then fill on the surface.
Make sure the filler is well ground/sanded before applying and try as best to roughen the backside of the piece to be filled.

I am not trained by any means in the autobody field. Most of my experience comes from being a fabricator. The majority in the architectural steel doors and frames

What I said above is what I know works for me and the profession I'm in.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I can't say how it will hold up on the antenna hole cause I never done one yet.

But it seems to hold up very well on most things.. I got a 73 c/10 sitting out back that I shaved the mirrors and handles on about 5 years ago. Truck has seen well over 30K miles. No signs of any sinking, cracking, etc on the bondo-ed holes.

I also shaved the mirrors off my 84 camaro 7 years ago useing this same method. I used that car for 4 years, then junked it. My dad took the doors off and put on his 84 camaro 3 years ago. No "bad stuff" has happened to the mirror hole patches I made on it and I filled them just like I said before.. Duct tape on back, then bondo on front.

stalin05

What i did was weld them shut, spread fiber glass bondo over it, smooth, then bondo over that, smooth. Looks great !