Rabbitt

Well, im getting ready to paint and i have a couple questions.

1. Im using all HOK products. I read all the techsheets i could find, but it doesnt say how long i can leave it in epoxy.. Would i be able to spray the epoxy and leave it in the paintshop for a week or two? (need to find a fender/products to fix my front ground efx/new tip for my gun/order another quart of hardener)

2. Do I need to wetsand between the epoxy and the KO-seal II primer? The tech sheet says to use 400grit to wetsand but I remember Jeffw saying that I wouldnt need to wetsand between the two primers...and honestly, i would rather trust Jeff.. anyone else have any other insight on this so i can make an educated decision?

3. What grits would you guys recommend? I know I am using 40grit to take the paint down, but what about the different stages of block sanding?
a) sanding the filler?
b) wetsanding any of the primers?
c) wetsanding the clear? (i plan on doing two coats of clear, wetsanding, and adding two or three more.. so what should i wetsand with the first time - after two coats - and the final time...ie the color sanding)

4. And finally.. I thought i had read somewhere that black can be painted panel by panel and be fine. So i wanted to know, if i can do, lets say, the doors first. Then, on a different day, do the body (quarters, roof, jams). Then on another day, hood and hatch. Then fenders.. Something along those lines. Would it still turn out alright?

Thanks a lot guys.. Thank g0d i have you guys to come to or this would be so messed up!

JeffW

ok solid black can be painted in peices with no ill affects...

i just did a black hok job today.... damn it shows every little bugger on the vehicle. lots of touch up but it is ok now.

if you leaving it in epoxy for a while like i did... i scuffed the epoxy with a red scotch brite pad and then shot another coat of epoxy or two. then once it has flashed i went to the koseal primer.

i did all my bondo work inbetween the epoxy and primer this way it was sealed.

i did my initial sand with 80 grit then the epoxy.; the red scoth then bondo work.. 3m dry guide coat 120 - 220 grit for the heavy cut then fine work with 400 grit. longboard with 400 grit then primered.... then went to 600 grit wet and the base.

for clear i got an airvantage sander from autobody store with the innerface pad and finishing film. 1000 grit and 1200 did a great job smoothing the clear out.

KEVIN G.

Hey Jeff, Remember this...?
"The longboard is your best friend"
This is especially true with black. It will make or break a nice job.
Get all your panels lined up, then get it up in the air to block and prime... this will allow better access to all surfaces, all the way down.
I would board the whole car with 120 first, (after bodywork, of course.)
Re- prime and board with 240... maybe a couple times repeating...with guide coat and a fresh re-prime between each block... making sure all imperfections are GONE!!!!
Then, 320 or 400....
Then Wetsand...
And paint.
Wetsand as Jeff said, with 1200 after the first two coats...Re-clear, Wetsand and buff.

JeffW

yep got an air longboard

saved my arms big time.. i would reccomend one for sure.

you can see my project on my www site click below.

jeff

Rabbitt

Alright, i'll make sure i get a long board, but i know i wont be able to afford an air board.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V

I just need to find a store in my area that sells paper long enough for it, because i havent found any as of yet. I already have a 5" 3M sanding block.. will that be good for any parts of my car? or should i just put it up on the shelf.

Also, i emailed Len at Autobodystore.com and he told me just to use a light-colored aerosol primer and 'dust' it on my black-primered surfaces for a guide coat.

i am really looking forward to getting this done

JeffW

this is what ya need to do...

i got my long board from eastwood its a cp so it a cheapie... got my paper local and some from eastwood.

jeff

Rabbitt

damn Jeff... I wish i had that talent... if i wasnt going to the blue pearlized effect then i prolly would try my hand at that... maybe someday...

net_coma

iTrader: (3)

NICE flames!!!!!!!!!!!

JeffW

yous hould do ghoxt flames..... those are cool seem easy enough. i got a dvd on it and it alot easier than real flames.

jeff

KEVIN G.

Any paint supply store in your area should sell that paper on a sheet roll.
The 80 and some 120 can be sold pre-cut but get the 3M gold sheetroll.
Cheaper in the long run and will last.
Do NOt use the short board... unless in a hard to reach area...There's not enough span to pull from another part of the panel, to get the panel straight...and that's ultimately what we're lookin' for.

Rabbitt

alright, so basically, look around for the best deals and get a couple of rolls of paper for the long board.. would an 11" long board or 11" 3M sanding block be long enough? or should i get the 17". Im trying to do this on the least amount of money I can (starting school soon) and if it is a little more work for me but costs a little less, im prolly gonna go in that direction..

Would you guys suggest painting the fenders on the car or off? i want to do the doors, ground efx (obviously), bumpers, hood, and hatch all off, and i have to replace one fender.. was thinking about doing the fenders both off...

Also, Jeff, how did you remove the hatch panel? how did you put it back on?

I may go with ghost flames sometime.. but it will be next year at the earliest.. i kinda want to get this done or on its way at least before school starts (Sept. 6).
hmmm...

KEVIN G.

Really, you want to "edge" all the panels as if they are new...
Take them off, scuff and paint the inside of all the parts first...
Then re- install, align the panels, prep and paint the exterior
It's probably best to paint ...especially with black...with the hood off, the hatch off, and all the plastic off... That way there's no tape lines when you open the hood and hatch. It's a nice clean job and with black, there's no color match problem.

Rabbitt

will i have enough primer/paint/cc to do the interior of the panels? (im guessing if i just scuff, then i would just use the KO-Seal II and then bc/cc) I have a gallon of epoxy/ko-seal II/bc/cc each..

and say i painted with fenders on the body.. could i still do the doors off? i just want to get the door jambs good and that would be a good way to do it without having any real tape lines (the lines would be underneat interior trim)... or would the doors on the body be the best approach?

also, another question... would there be any ill-effects of putting new paint (properly cured) under a car cover?

KEVIN G.

You won't need sealer on the interior of the panels... It doesn't need as much protection as the outside. Just make sure you have coverage.
Edge the Jambs before you hang the doors and align everything up.
I'm not a fan of trying to paint EVERYTHING separately...too much can go wrong. You'll surely damage something trying to install and line up the doors, after exterior paint.
A good quality cover should pose no problems...I wouldn't put it over FRESH paint, but if it's your best way to protect it that's fine.

Rabbitt

yah, thats true.. I can just see myself hanging the doors and BAM! ....
And a car cover is my only real option.. im painting in my dad's garage, but I dont have one... so when the painting is all said and done.. im going to need something to protect the car from sunlight/leaves/seeds/and all around bad crap. Also, my car cover is waterproof, so that will help me out until I get my new t-top weatherstripping (and all the other weatherstripping components, of course).. so until then, my t-tops are down for good.