Removing T-Top rubber WITHOUT destroying it...
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 680
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From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Removing T-Top rubber WITHOUT destroying it...
The guy I bought the car from just installed new rubber before I bought it, but I need to get under it to sand/prep and paint.... is there anyway to get it off without killing it? I would simply hate ruining brand new weatherstipping.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 797
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From: NC
Car: Camaro
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
If you find a way I think you win a prize! Seriously, I would probably try a heat gun or hair dryer (heat gun might be too hot) and pull slowly. Good luck and dont forget to claim your prize if it works!
#3
What a coincidence I just did this today and yesterday, I ended up putting small rip in drivers side in one of the corners and another small one on the same side in the middle and that was just because I was careful, both are small enough to use a small bit of silicone on or a heat gun.
Here is what you have to do, underneith the seal is an inner lip and an outer lip. First thing first, at the bottom on the rear of the door there should be a few plugs holding in the back side of the seal. Pull these plugs out with a flatblade screwdriver carefully. Next you must carefully remove the seal from the inner (towards the opening) lip. To do this gently push the edge toward the seal and pop the little lip of the seal over the metal. Once this is started you can carefully run a screw driver along to get the entire lip out. ONLY go to the corner. Next, since you can pull the back part out, slowley and carefully pull the secure backside out from under the metal using a flat blade to carefully pry the goop and such free. Once you have done this do the same for the front of the t-top seal, again only to the corner. The bottom of the front on my car at least was just held in by goop. Also you may find that the lower screwed in aluminum brackets are in the way when you go to pull this out.
ALSO remember to remove the bolts/screws at the top of the window.
Once you have the seal freed to both corners do the same with the middle and be extra careful on the corner.
NOTE: always pull the seal from as close to the metal as possible with you fingers.
I'll draw some pictures up here
Here is what you have to do, underneith the seal is an inner lip and an outer lip. First thing first, at the bottom on the rear of the door there should be a few plugs holding in the back side of the seal. Pull these plugs out with a flatblade screwdriver carefully. Next you must carefully remove the seal from the inner (towards the opening) lip. To do this gently push the edge toward the seal and pop the little lip of the seal over the metal. Once this is started you can carefully run a screw driver along to get the entire lip out. ONLY go to the corner. Next, since you can pull the back part out, slowley and carefully pull the secure backside out from under the metal using a flat blade to carefully pry the goop and such free. Once you have done this do the same for the front of the t-top seal, again only to the corner. The bottom of the front on my car at least was just held in by goop. Also you may find that the lower screwed in aluminum brackets are in the way when you go to pull this out.
ALSO remember to remove the bolts/screws at the top of the window.
Once you have the seal freed to both corners do the same with the middle and be extra careful on the corner.
NOTE: always pull the seal from as close to the metal as possible with you fingers.
I'll draw some pictures up here
#6
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 0
From: PE, Canada
Car: '81 Trans Am
Engine: 6.6L
Transmission: auto 350
yep same here i took off 2 sets in the junk yard and wrecked both of them i only was only able to get one set ever that didnt rip soo much it was unuseable, I also replaced my gf ttop bar and riped one of her rubber moldings but it wasnt that bad as the other side was already torn.
#7
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Since it was probably installed with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive, get a spray can of their adhesive remover. It will weaken the bond and enable you to carefully remove the rubber (if its in good new condition) without destroying it, and won't hurt the rubber.
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#8
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,730
Likes: 1
From: Or-eh-gun
Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
when i put my new weatherstripping in i did not use any kind of glue, i just put in in. the lips hold it in just fine and it does not leak any more then it used to. (it still leaks between the weatherstripping for the opening and the weatherstripping on the t-top at the courners)
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
From: NC
Car: Camaro
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I only SLIGHTly ripped 1 out of 2 so I should get a half prize
Ok you just gotta fill out all the legal forms in quadruplicate, sign in blood (yours prefferably), and wait six to eight weeks (plus a thousand years) for delivery!
Last edited by LUVmy92; 07-13-2005 at 04:51 PM.
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