Do 4th gen t-tops leak?
#1
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Do 4th gen t-tops leak?
All: we all know how 3rd gen t-tops leak pretty much all the time.
Did GM fix this problem with the 4th gens? I may sell off my 86 Iroc for a 4th gen Z28/Formula/TA, but the market around here is mostly for t-tops, not hard tops.
Please weigh in: do these things leak? If there's the slightest possibility of leaking problems I won't get one. I really appreciate your input. thanks.
Did GM fix this problem with the 4th gens? I may sell off my 86 Iroc for a 4th gen Z28/Formula/TA, but the market around here is mostly for t-tops, not hard tops.
Please weigh in: do these things leak? If there's the slightest possibility of leaking problems I won't get one. I really appreciate your input. thanks.
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Car: 89/02 Trans Ams
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No, they do not. I've owned three 4th gens with T-tops. None have leaked like the two 3rd Gens I've owned. GM designed the 4th gens with this problem in mind. They are very tight sealing and as long as you take care of the weatherstripping, you should see no problems.
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
Re: Do 4th gen t-tops leak?
Originally posted by BigBiscuit
All: we all know how 3rd gen t-tops leak pretty much all the time.
Did GM fix this problem with the 4th gens? I may sell off my 86 Iroc for a 4th gen Z28/Formula/TA, but the market around here is mostly for t-tops, not hard tops.
Please weigh in: do these things leak? If there's the slightest possibility of leaking problems I won't get one. I really appreciate your input. thanks.
All: we all know how 3rd gen t-tops leak pretty much all the time.
Did GM fix this problem with the 4th gens? I may sell off my 86 Iroc for a 4th gen Z28/Formula/TA, but the market around here is mostly for t-tops, not hard tops.
Please weigh in: do these things leak? If there's the slightest possibility of leaking problems I won't get one. I really appreciate your input. thanks.
THEY LEAK! Like a sieve! I've never seen a seal leak so badly!!!! You better stick with ur IROC!
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#8
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
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Well, weigh in the price of posting your car for sale, waiting until it sells, finding a 4th gen in great shape that doesnt leak in your area... VS replacing the weather stripping.........
Make the right choice
Make the right choice
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
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Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
.... well, lets see here... 320 for complete 8 piece t-top weatherstripping.. or sell ur car for a 3-5 grand and buy a 4th gen for 7 or 8.. yep, seems worth it to me
Get some weatherstripping man, don leave us!
Get some weatherstripping man, don leave us!
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Believe me bro, I've put in some serious time trying to fix these things. New factory seals installed myself with strategically placed silicone and every configuration of weatherstripping and caulking I can conceive of and the water still gets in. it's mind boggling. sometimes I think if I put an inch of silicone on the entire top surface of the car, it would still leak.
then when I start to think about getting about upwards of 100 more HP, no leaks, AC, comparable gas mileage, and a better interior, I'm really tempted to sell and put it back into a good 4th gen.
so, to my fellow 3rd gen brethren, I am going down swinging (this hasn't been my only hassle). But with a wife and two kids...at some point I can't be a cowboy anymore.
then when I start to think about getting about upwards of 100 more HP, no leaks, AC, comparable gas mileage, and a better interior, I'm really tempted to sell and put it back into a good 4th gen.
so, to my fellow 3rd gen brethren, I am going down swinging (this hasn't been my only hassle). But with a wife and two kids...at some point I can't be a cowboy anymore.
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Car: 86 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
there are ways to stop the leaks in our cars. Just put yourself in the place of water on top of your car. And just sit there and imagine where you would go. what happens is water get in between the weatherstripping and the car area. After many hours of thinking about a solution. I figured one out. It might be more for us guys who can customize and actually build something.
I'm welding a small plate all the way around the t-top seal when my body work starts. it will be horizontall and stick itself inside of the actual seal. This is where the hard part enlies. I will use stock weatherstipping with a slait made for the pice to slide into. And inside the slit will be more then you can imagine in RTV and what not. This was the water doesn't have the ease to just eventually wait for the elements to loosen the grip on the paint and then it'll fall thougth and rust the metal beneath.
As well for extra protection. I have used Roof tar, the 5 gallon jug of black crap people use to seal small leaks. Well coat the entire t-top area off with it. Make a layer thats thin enough for it to not bother the weather stripping, but thick enough to completely cover and protect. You can seal all possible passages this way, and further protect the metal the tar is on top of. That way even if the weatherstrip does leak it wont get inside and it wont rust your car's frame.
The idea seems a little weird on paper. But ii assure you the bar i will weld all the way around will seal better then stock 10 fold. the tar is just for extra assurance.
I'm welding a small plate all the way around the t-top seal when my body work starts. it will be horizontall and stick itself inside of the actual seal. This is where the hard part enlies. I will use stock weatherstipping with a slait made for the pice to slide into. And inside the slit will be more then you can imagine in RTV and what not. This was the water doesn't have the ease to just eventually wait for the elements to loosen the grip on the paint and then it'll fall thougth and rust the metal beneath.
As well for extra protection. I have used Roof tar, the 5 gallon jug of black crap people use to seal small leaks. Well coat the entire t-top area off with it. Make a layer thats thin enough for it to not bother the weather stripping, but thick enough to completely cover and protect. You can seal all possible passages this way, and further protect the metal the tar is on top of. That way even if the weatherstrip does leak it wont get inside and it wont rust your car's frame.
The idea seems a little weird on paper. But ii assure you the bar i will weld all the way around will seal better then stock 10 fold. the tar is just for extra assurance.
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Car: '91 bird '87 Z28 '86 T/A
Engine: LO3 LG4(ls1 in works) 350
Transmission: 700R in all
Axle/Gears: wimpy 10 bolts
plz keep me info'ed on the fabrication. i need to do wife's t-top on the Z cuz all i had to fix it for now was black sealent that works so far, but i would like to take them off and not look so hideous
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
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man, if my interior looked that nice i would have kept it (and my car) red!
#15
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Originally posted by DanTheMan_smlk
slightly off topic, but what can i use to keep my seals fresh? They are perfect right now, i want to keep it that way...
slightly off topic, but what can i use to keep my seals fresh? They are perfect right now, i want to keep it that way...
Spray liberally on a rag and wipe on the weatherstripping. Let it soak in. Repeat once every couple months. I've heard that it's better to put on the rag first instead of spraying directly on the stripping, but I can't recall why. Something about the aerosols in the can. *shrugs*
Last edited by CaysE; 07-02-2005 at 08:48 AM.
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Car: 1991 Z28 clone & 1985 Fiero 2M4
Engine: 305 TPI (In Progress, Camaro) & 2.5L 4 cyl soon to be 3.4
Transmission: 700R4 (Camaro) & Isuzu 5 speed (Fiero)
the reason third gens leak is there is no channel around hte t-tops for the water to go in and run off the car. instead it pools in the corners and comes between the glass and seal. Where as in the 4th gens they put a channel around the outside of hte seal all the way around for the water to flow in and off the roof of the car preventing leaks.
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Car: 93 240SX
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Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Note:
4th gens can leak, thirdgens can be sealed up like tupperware. It can happen either way, I know of a 97 Z that leaks right now, and my 84 never leaked a drop.
Convertibles may flex but that can easily be fixed with subframes.
Getting a 4th gen to stop a leak is a retarded plan, and you will be leaking blood on most occasions you work under the hood
4th gens can leak, thirdgens can be sealed up like tupperware. It can happen either way, I know of a 97 Z that leaks right now, and my 84 never leaked a drop.
Convertibles may flex but that can easily be fixed with subframes.
Getting a 4th gen to stop a leak is a retarded plan, and you will be leaking blood on most occasions you work under the hood
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 T.B.I. (Vin tag "E" = LO3)
Transmission: THM-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi 3.23
Originally posted by Z28*****
...Getting a 4th gen to stop a leak is a retarded plan, and you will be leaking blood on most occasions you work under the hood
...Getting a 4th gen to stop a leak is a retarded plan, and you will be leaking blood on most occasions you work under the hood
#23
Originally posted by Derek The Great
...coil per cylinder... plastic composite intake... plastic... not to mention that in order to get the V8 in there they had to recess the firewall
...coil per cylinder... plastic composite intake... plastic... not to mention that in order to get the V8 in there they had to recess the firewall
i cant wait to get one when im about 25 and can afford it...i'll be ownin all the hybrids out there (well im 19 now so there might not be that many hybrids )
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Car: 93 240SX
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Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Originally posted by DanTheMan_smlk
all these things are great for performance...plastic intake reduces weight...it doesnt need to be metal for any reason. Coil per cylinder is lots better and more reliable... I would love to have an '02 SS or Trans AM WS6 (whatever the highest firebird is )
i cant wait to get one when im about 25 and can afford it...i'll be ownin all the hybrids out there (well im 19 now so there might not be that many hybrids )
all these things are great for performance...plastic intake reduces weight...it doesnt need to be metal for any reason. Coil per cylinder is lots better and more reliable... I would love to have an '02 SS or Trans AM WS6 (whatever the highest firebird is )
i cant wait to get one when im about 25 and can afford it...i'll be ownin all the hybrids out there (well im 19 now so there might not be that many hybrids )
Right, trust me 4th gens are way overrated, although you are right about the advances in the engine being good, the body thats wrapped around that engine isnt all its cooked up to be.
This coming from someone who's owned: 84 Z28 auto ttop, 86 Z28 hardtop 5 spd later converted to LT1 / T56, 89 RS 5 spd v6 hardtop, 92 Z28 5.0 G92 pkg, a 94 Z28 hardtop 6 speed. And spun wrenches on more third and fourth gens than probably anyone else on this message board.
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
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Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi 3.23
Originally posted by DanTheMan_smlk
all these things are great for performance...plastic intake reduces weight...it doesnt need to be metal for any reason. Coil per cylinder is lots better and more reliable...
all these things are great for performance...plastic intake reduces weight...it doesnt need to be metal for any reason. Coil per cylinder is lots better and more reliable...
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
i disagree on the aluminum vs plastic intake.
the only time ive ever seen a plastic intake fail was from a nitrous backfire.
lighter, less heat, and it will always look brand new. hard to do all that with aluminum.
the only time ive ever seen a plastic intake fail was from a nitrous backfire.
lighter, less heat, and it will always look brand new. hard to do all that with aluminum.
#28
My GTA has C&C T-tops and they don't leak unless I take a hose and directly spray and an upward angle where the top meets the windows.
Maybe it has something to do with the C&C conversions having channels.
Ofcourse, C&C tops aren't adjustable so its best to keep your weather stripping in good condition.
Maybe it has something to do with the C&C conversions having channels.
Ofcourse, C&C tops aren't adjustable so its best to keep your weather stripping in good condition.
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 T.B.I. (Vin tag "E" = LO3)
Transmission: THM-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi 3.23
Originally posted by stage20
i disagree on the aluminum vs plastic intake.
the only time ive ever seen a plastic intake fail was from a nitrous backfire.
lighter, less heat, and it will always look brand new. hard to do all that with aluminum.
i disagree on the aluminum vs plastic intake.
the only time ive ever seen a plastic intake fail was from a nitrous backfire.
lighter, less heat, and it will always look brand new. hard to do all that with aluminum.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
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Originally posted by DanTheMan_smlk
note:
3rd gen convertibles have body flex and weigh more....
note:
3rd gen convertibles have body flex and weigh more....
umm, thirdgens have body flex peroid. if it bugs you, go throw some SFCs or a cage in... its not like a couple thin sheets of sheetmetal over your head is magicly making your car measurably stiffer then mine... lol
i'll post up my weight when i get someone to sneak me to the scales on base... but id bet its less then you.
Originally posted by Derek The Great
i refuse to work on that thing, too tech for me ...coil per cylinder... plastic composite intake... plastic... not to mention that in order to get the V8 in there they had to recess the firewall, which is why the dash boards are so GIGANTIC and why lots of things are a PITA to get to...
i refuse to work on that thing, too tech for me ...coil per cylinder... plastic composite intake... plastic... not to mention that in order to get the V8 in there they had to recess the firewall, which is why the dash boards are so GIGANTIC and why lots of things are a PITA to get to...
..and damn that stupid intake that doesnt use gasket maker... doesnt heat soak... flows enough air not to choke the motor above 4k... stupid intake.
btw, the firewall isnt recessed back... the cowl over it just comes forward.. the relitive position of the motor and trans hasnt changed since the 3rdgen... and if you're good and not intimidated by how it looks, its honestly not that hard to work on... get 2 or 3 of us together and we can do a heads/cam swap in about 6hours...
Originally posted by Z28*****
And spun wrenches on more third and fourth gens than probably anyone else on this message board.
And spun wrenches on more third and fourth gens than probably anyone else on this message board.
Originally posted by Derek The Great
To me, i see that stuff as just more crap to troubleshoot when something goes wrong and aluminum intakes are more durable then plastic ones, and saving around 4-7 lbs at most using plastic over aluminum, and many of GMs plastic intakes leaked due to warping.. The ls1 is a great motor, hell i love drivin my dads 'maro but workin on them things just isnt what i call fun - too much stuff needed to kno and i consider myself just a laymen...
To me, i see that stuff as just more crap to troubleshoot when something goes wrong and aluminum intakes are more durable then plastic ones, and saving around 4-7 lbs at most using plastic over aluminum, and many of GMs plastic intakes leaked due to warping.. The ls1 is a great motor, hell i love drivin my dads 'maro but workin on them things just isnt what i call fun - too much stuff needed to kno and i consider myself just a laymen...
warping? warping? i know of ZERO LS1 intakes warping... ever. lol
alum warps though.. because it expands and contracts with heat... the LS1 intake doesnt shift nearly as much, and the O-ring seals compensate for the heads/block doing so...
im sorry you have to learn to work on cars... perhaps if you invest in a time machine, you can go back to the 1960s and work on cars there... or you could just get another hobby.. i mean, if learning how things work and how to fix them is a big issue for you, then......
#32
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
I don't know about the rest of you, but I love my '91 GTA more than any 4th gen that was ever made.
In my opinion, the exterior and interior of my car is way sexier and doesn't look as cheap.
I'm not a fan of all the curves on the 4th gen. I hate the how cheap the dashboard looks. I love the straight lines of my interior, and I love my HUGE gauges.
I'm not going to lie, the 4th gens are more powerful. I'm even considering an LS6 and T56 swap. (I can't wait until someone swaps in the new engine that's under the hood of the GTOs and Corvettes. Now that will be SICK)
In my opinion, the exterior and interior of my car is way sexier and doesn't look as cheap.
I'm not a fan of all the curves on the 4th gen. I hate the how cheap the dashboard looks. I love the straight lines of my interior, and I love my HUGE gauges.
I'm not going to lie, the 4th gens are more powerful. I'm even considering an LS6 and T56 swap. (I can't wait until someone swaps in the new engine that's under the hood of the GTOs and Corvettes. Now that will be SICK)
Last edited by wgripp; 07-05-2005 at 05:46 PM.
#34
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally posted by Derek The Great
i was referring to stock gm pieces, not aftermarket ones.
i was referring to stock gm pieces, not aftermarket ones.
?
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Car: 1991 Z28 clone & 1985 Fiero 2M4
Engine: 305 TPI (In Progress, Camaro) & 2.5L 4 cyl soon to be 3.4
Transmission: 700R4 (Camaro) & Isuzu 5 speed (Fiero)
i've worked on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gens they all have their design flaws. The firewall is not recessed the windshield is just extended way over the engine bay that. One of the dumb things on 4th gens is the over the top lt1 exhaust manifulds, and then gms idea of using cheap velcro to hold on the plastic dash pad/extension. Performance wise id take a 4th gen any day of the week, but for looks and for tinkering on the mechanics of the car a third gen.
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
Therefore thridgens w/ fourthgen drivetrains own all. Too bad most of us can't afford it
#38
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally posted by wgripp
Therefore thridgens w/ fourthgen drivetrains own all. Too bad most of us can't afford it
Therefore thridgens w/ fourthgen drivetrains own all. Too bad most of us can't afford it
rusty ole third gens arent worth much, right?
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally posted by wgripp
stage 20, I'll take it in a heartbeat! where are you located? FL?
stage 20, I'll take it in a heartbeat! where are you located? FL?
#41
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
Just let me know when and where to pick up the car. Where are you now?
#42
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
i dont know if you missed the sarcasim, or are just going along with me.
hehe.
car is in the garage, locked up. its staying with me for a while.
hehe.
car is in the garage, locked up. its staying with me for a while.
#43
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: L98(5.7 L TPI)
Transmission: 700r4(A4)
Axle/Gears: G80 RPO, 3:23s, Auburn Racer's Diff
If you were serious, I'd hafta beat you for disrespecting your 3rd gen like that =p. Then again, if I got your car for free, I couldn't really complain!
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