I need some serious help. The past 3 months has come down to a dissapointing day. Finally had the clear all sanded out to 1200 grit and starting buffing last weekend. I had a couple of little burn thrus here and there, nothing major. I went back a shot color on those and then followed with clear. I think this was a mistake. I went back and sanded those areas wiht 1200 and now they look like a dog's butt. You can see where the spot was-- there is a definate 'line' where I sanded the clear. The paint also looks like a lighter shade.

What did I do wrong?? How do you spot repair base /clear?? Do I have to respray the entire panel with color and clear?? Am I missing something?? I hope I havent't dug myself a huge hole! With everything else buffed out (I am very pleased BTW), it looks darn good!! I hope I don't have to go back and respray it.

Please give me some encouraging directions to fix this.

Thanks!

 

A couple VERY important issues here, What color?
If solid color it will be easier to spot, color and clear.
If metallic, it CAN be done but takes more work and experience.
You're USUALLY better off blending within the panel and re-clearing.
2. How long ago was the paint work done.
A completely cured paintjob will take more finesse, and again, experience.
3. How many coats of clear? 1200 WAS kind of harsh for a base clear job unless you've got sufficient coats. Or are we talking mostly edges?
4. Did you wetsand all the paint completely FLAT, by this I mean take out all the orange peel? This may cause clearcoat degradation down the road.(you know, you've seen it, you hate it... That chalky white flaky looking garbage that happened to the GM jobs that resided in high uv states.)

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by KEVIN G.
[B]A couple VERY important issues here, What color?
If solid color it will be easier to spot, color and clear.
If metallic, it CAN be done but takes more work and experience.
You're USUALLY better off blending within the panel and re-clearing.

Maui blue metallic, PPG


2. How long ago was the paint work done. A completely cured paintjob will take more finesse, and again, experience.

3 weeks since the original clear, 1 week since my miserably failed spot repair.


3. How many coats of clear? 1200 WAS kind of harsh for a base clear job unless you've got sufficient coats. Or are we talking mostly edges?

Mostly edges. There are 2 spots on a 'flat'. One on the hood and one on the 'B'pillar/ sail panel. I sprayed 2 very wet coats of clear--almost to the point of running.


4. Did you wetsand all the paint completely FLAT, by this I mean take out all the orange peel? This may cause clearcoat degradation down the road.(you know, you've seen it, you hate it... That chalky white flaky looking garbage that happened to the GM jobs that resided in high uv states.)

Yes, the orange peel was sanded out. I have spent the last 3 weeks sanding. Wet sanded with a rubber block with 1200.


What I am most concerned about is the Bpillar/ sail panel. How do I blend that back into the top so I don't have to respray the entire back half of the car??

I have followed the sanding with 3M medium cut, fine cut, swirl remover, and then Finesse it finishing material. It really looks nice and my arms hurt!

Thanks

 

Damn!!!
That is a BEAUTIFUL color, but also one of the hardest to repair in this fashion.
The key is stepping out the basecoat to a point that it does not blush on you. For this you will need a 'colorless' basecoat.
The clear should be ok to blend, or to spot, and make it almost seamless. BUT, you will probably cut your losses to repair each panel, spot in the color and re-clear the entire panel.
The "wet" coat thing isn't as important to me as the ammount of millage you were able to transfer to the panels.
In fact, the wetter you made the clear, chances are it's thinner in the areas where it would normally build... ie; the edges and curves. I would almost suggest re-wetsanding the entire car...CAREFULLY, and adding two more coats.
What clear?

 

Oh it is gorgeous all buffed out!

The clear is PPG DCU2020. I used 2 full quarts in a 4:1:1 ratio with hardener and reducer (as spec'd by the cut sheet).

When I spotted the color in my attempt, it looks lighter than what I am shooting it on, but it came out of the same can. Why?? This is what got me into the trouble I am in right now. The spots I hit with base & clear last week as touch up are a shade or so lighter than the surrounding area. The areas would have been fine if the shade wasn't off. Now that I am talking about it, I guess this is the real problem, not so much the burn thrus.

By 'stepping out' you mean spraying it further than needed to cover the spot, correct? What is your definition of 'blush'?

I am going to bed. I'll check back in the morning. Thanks for the help. I can sleep a little easier!!

 

"Bushing" is exactly what you are seeing when you try to spot in the color. The metallic doesn't lay like it did while you were spraying the whole panel.
The difference in weather conditions, air pressure, the ammount of metallic, and the fact that you are trying to shoot a small area, all contribute to this effect. Yes, by stepping it out, you need to give the illusion that it hasn't been repaired.
2020 is a great clear, but not quite high enough solids to spray only two coats and wetsand and buff the **** out of. It's probably quite thin on the rest of the car as well, which will cause degradation over time.