GOY

I understand the basics of unhooking the power accessories, pulling them out of the hole, but just how big of a PITA our the hinges and sping on third gen's? Any tips?

Also - I have a formula, but have a chance at a free GTA door. Problem is, the GTA had ground EFX. Are those holes easily filled, or should I look for a base model door? Are those holes locate someplace where I can maybe tack in a backing plate and use filler to fill in?

Thanks in advance.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

It can be a pain. You will need at least one other strong person to help hold it while you bolt it up. You will need to remove the hood, to remove the fender. Remove interior panels to remove the GFX, which needs to be removed to remove the fender.

GOY

... that's a lot of stuff to do to hang a new door...

By bolt it up, do you mean just put in the new pin, or do I have to remove the hinges from the door/body as well? What are the alignment issue's like?

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

I unbolted the hinges from the car. If you are just trying to replace the hinge bushings it may be a little different. Try a search on that, as it has been writen up many times.

GOY

Nope, as in my first post, the whole door has to go. I just assumed that you would take the door off with removing the hinge pin.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

I believe there is more to removing the pins, than just pulling them out. I have always unbolted the hinge from the car.


FYI, 3 bolts on the top hinge remove from outside of car.

1 bolt from out side on lower. 2 On lower hinge must be removed from inside car, behind kick panel.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The top hinge cannot be unpinned. It has to be unbolted. The bottom hinge either has to be unbolted enough to remove the spring or you have to use a spring compressor to remove the spring, and then you have to remove the clip that is attached to the pin so it can be slid out of its hole.

And as for having to have two people to do the job, I have removed and reinstalled my PS door by myself. You just have to latch the door first. This makes it easier to line up anyways. And you will need a door spring installation tool to put the spring(s) back in.

Also, you don't need to remove the hood. Just unbolt the rest of the fender bolts (easier to remove the headlight assembly so you can get at the bumper cover mounts), unbolt the hood hinge, balance the hood with an extension pole or a helper, and bolt the hood back down when you have the fender off.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

I would personalyy feel a lot better if I removed the hood, as apossed to balancing it on a pole.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'm used to it... the DPO had a "prop rod" that he used to hold the hood open since he was too damn lazy to replace the useless (not worn--worn out completely) hood shocks . I'm not sure what the heck happened to the thing... it's also good for holding up the hatch when you remove one of those shocks too...

ktacam

Are you talking about changing the door? I went to the junkyard pulled the six bolts out of the hinges and bolted it on to my car. I don't understand the issue.

GOY

Where did you pull the bolt from? Maybe I'll just follow your lead....

86Z

iTrader: (4)

um that's a lot of work, just did 2 doors last weekend, get yourself a 13mm ratchet closed end wrench, remove the black splash shield from the front wheel well, stick your hand in there and remove the lower bolt, then remove the kick panel and remove both 15mm bolts, while someone is holding the door, then remove the upper bolts 13mm

ktacam

All I did was open the door, take the upper three bolts off the hinge from with an open end wrench, removed the inner kick panel ratcheted out the two lower bolts, took the same 1/4 ratchet and removed the last bolt on the lower bracket through the opening with the door open. Took about 20 minutes and thats the first time I have ever taken one off.

GOY

.....

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

One other thing. YOU NEED A DOOR SPRING COMPRESSOR. You CANNOT adjust the door before the spring(s) go into the lower hinge(s), unless you remove the whole hinge (never done it do I dunno). I would also change the door pin bushings while I was down there if I were you to avoid some of the sagging issue--besides, it's a good idea anyways as it's cheap insurance.

HalfInchWrench

I swapped doors a couple of times and I have 2 more coming up soon. Never touched any fender bolts, outer wheel well liner, springs, hood or anything else. Just unbolted the upper and lower hinges. Did it alone both times. Supported the door with a floor jack and a piece of wood. Little tricky to line up the replacement door but not that bad. Would be easier with a helper.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

The spring does not have to come out. If u are unbolting it from the piller. And has nothing to do with lining up the door... All that spring is for is for the door check ( to keep the door open) U can get to the bolts with out takeing the fender off. But i think its easier with it off. And i don't like cutting myself up. If one of them bolts break or wrench slips. U are going to be hurting.