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Repairing rust inside the car.Does this look good?

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Old 04-17-2005, 11:26 AM
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Repairing rust inside the car.Does this look good?

I just took this pic, what i did was. Grinded the area down on both sides, bottom and top. Then took some Navel jelly, applied it to the tiny rust area. After a few times of navel jelly then wire brushing. Where the rust was started to turn into a black look. Did I get all the rust out? And this is just the damage the rust did? Or should all of this black looking substance be out. If i keep grinding it out i may get too thin and it wont be strong.
Old 04-17-2005, 11:50 AM
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sorry about that, thanks for the pm
Attached Thumbnails Repairing rust inside the car.Does this look good?-picture-080.jpg  
Old 04-17-2005, 12:21 PM
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help please
Old 04-17-2005, 12:56 PM
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bump
Old 04-17-2005, 03:39 PM
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i would blast it if you are able to

if you have a compressor most body shops cary small blasting guns for 20-50 dollars there cheesey but would work for small jobs like this
Old 04-17-2005, 04:48 PM
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Wheres this at exactly, Im having a little trouble. Heres what I do but Im not saying it right but it is simple. If there enough rust that it will chip off or puncture through when jabbed with a screwdriver then your better of just cutting it out. Then just snip out some new pieces and fully weld them. Thats all thats nessary but you should also grind down the weld or seal it with something if you care. I dont see any reason to go farther then that. I would just have someone go on the otherside of the weld with a flashlight and look for any tiny holes and weld it back up again. I know this prob isnt right but its what I do.
Old 04-17-2005, 06:45 PM
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thats a terribly blurry picture, focus, take it from further away or something. and/or put something next to it to gauge the size, like a quarter.

Is that your floorboard? a hole ? are you planning on welding in a small piece of metal or fiberglass or bondo or....?

after naval jelly, the rust has turned from iron oxide to... aw crap, I forget, iron something, in other words, inert... and black, not dark red. That's how you can tell it's "safe"... Then just smear bondo over and you're good to go (for a normal pitted panel).
you are going to fill that somehow, so that changes things.
Might as well cut it to a square hole large enough that it takes out other pitted areas then weld in a section.
What do you have access to? MIG? big air compressor? sandblasting gun?
Old 04-17-2005, 07:26 PM
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I agree with what he said, I really hate using anything besides real metal. Cut out anything that can be considered rust unless its not that bad and in a totally worthless area that your not worried about rusting through. Cut it all out, stick a piece of paper or something under the cut and draw the template, pull that piece of paper out and cut a good piece usually a little oversized and weld it in. I did that in about 50 different places and on the areas such as the door handles which we shaved off we did use filler but that was very little and over metal just to smooth it out. Hopefully you have the nessary tools and if you dont then I dont know.
Old 04-17-2005, 07:54 PM
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Yeah i have a mig welder, i'm gunna weld in a nice little peice. Then get some duraglass. Yeah its the floorboard. Its a whole the size of a nickle. So heres what i'm going to do

Since I dont have any duraglass right now, earlier I just primerd the spot underside and top , about 2 times each pretty thick.

I will weld in a little peice, grind the welds down, duraglass over the top. Then what should i do about the underside? Same thing with the duraglass.

Should i prime over the welded in peice before i put duraglass over the welded area?
Old 04-17-2005, 07:59 PM
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piece of paper or something under the cut and draw the template, pull that piece of paper out and cut a good piece usually a little oversized and weld it in

Great idea
Old 04-17-2005, 09:00 PM
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Ya thats what my dad taught me, not my own. I dont see why you need to use anything on your welds as long as you get all the tiny holes where water can penetrate and further develop into rust again. My floor boards were horrible so I cut out huge patch and even recreated the little notches and dips in the pan, then I painted the floor with some very thick Rustoleom which we just slopped on there. If this is going to be a show car go right ahead but no ones going to be looking under your carpet or your undercarriage with a mirror. I also used this rust treatment stuff from permatex which worked pretty well in areas such as the spare tire compartment which was horrible. I also undercoated a few areas. http://www.permatex.com/products/ind...st%20Treatment

Last edited by Yossarian14; 04-17-2005 at 09:02 PM.
Old 04-17-2005, 09:14 PM
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"Within minutes, rust disappears and a durable black polymer coating develops"

So thats what i was seeing from the naval jelly. So the metal is ok from rust . that helped.

But yeah that sounds like some good stuff thanks for pointing that out for me. I'l get some
Old 04-17-2005, 09:18 PM
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Ya supposedly there the same thing. What is naval jelly technically? http://www.permatex.com/auto/autoext...&item_no=81756
Old 04-20-2005, 08:52 PM
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not sure, like alittle less thick as oil. Its pinkish. Works pretty good.

How is zinc weld thru primer.. My dad just got it for me.
Old 04-20-2005, 09:18 PM
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Its just for when u are welding. I don't think it will stop rust.. But will prevent it.U use welding primer there is something on the metal were your over lap is. Or on the back side of a butt joint.I think the zinc helps it stick to bare metal better and makes it so u can weld thru it. SEM makes a good rust stoper. called rust mort
Old 04-20-2005, 09:22 PM
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ohhh so this has nothing to do with sealing the finished product. Basically what the label says is what it really is. lol wtf
Old 04-20-2005, 09:38 PM
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Na I would not leave just that. U wanna seal the under side right? If so How I would do it would be get some good expoy seam sealer and bruse that on. Some u need to use a primmer first some u don't. We use SEM at work and there rep told us u do not have to use primmer before u put it on.( I don't like the ideal but thats what they told us to dao and that the way the owner wants it) If u can not get your hands on epoxy seam sealer. Use one that that goes in a caulk gun. But one for cars. Heres a link to some http://www.macsalesco.com/pr_disp_de...Sealer%20White
Old 04-20-2005, 09:41 PM
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what about this primer zinc and then duraglass
Old 04-20-2005, 09:43 PM
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what about it. Weld thru is for when u are welding. And dura glass is for filling. dura glass goes over bare metal.
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