JeffW

seen alot of questions on painting steps lately. some day i will get to write the tech for these but for now here is my project last year that followed the paint process with help of many members here hopefully they will inspire and help others. painting is not that difficult with the proper equipment and prep. prep is where its at and base clears are nice to shoot. forget the one step crap and go for it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...%2Bresurection

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...%2Bresurection

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...%2Bresurection



jeff

JeffW

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sellmanb

boomarked this page Thanks Jeff

JeffW

no problem how is your project coming?

sellmanb

on hold. Have a new engine since my old spun bearings. It's taking most of my time and money .

But it should be done in a couple weeks, and then I start the look-out for 91-92 gfx, an IROC/Z28 nose, and some sand paper and mud to start the body work

JeffW

lots of sand paper, the better stuff is worth the money go with 3m or norton.

sellmanb

will definetly get whatever I can afford

Now... I've seen this tool around the body shop at school before, but I never asked what it was, maybe you'll know...

It's a long board that you attach sandpaper to, I've even seen one that had an air hose attachment for whatever reason.

I'm guessing it's for evening out the bondo after it dries. Would this be a safe assumption? Would it be worth my while to buy one? Or when you do body work would it be silly to NOT have one?

Figure since no one else seems to have questions for yah about this, I might as well pick your brain

JeffW

yep sounds like a long board. mostly used when guide coating to insure everything is smooth and at the same level. the one with an air line is just a less manual version. i went with a long board that was plastic worked fine a must have for a smooth finish.

i think they are about 3 or 4 inches wide and about 12 inches long sometime longer.

jeff

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

the ones I usually see are 2.75" wide, 17.5" long...
Then you can buy "long board" sandpaper sheets for it.
the air ones are generally air hogs, i'm going to look for one that isn't, right now I have a manual one...

JeffW

i think there are a few diffrent sizes you can get. its a must have for that guide coat step once you do that car once with it you can go to a small blck since you know is smooth. i missed one spot on my door when i did my car. it showed after i painted it. oh well maybe i'll get a replacement door for it. body filler is not my strong suit take alot of time to look and check and check again.

jeff

sellmanb

Sounds good.

So another question... this one's about keeping your paint in good condition.

What steps do you suggest to take for oxidized paint, peeling clear coats, and those other Van Nuys paint jobs, short of re-painting it?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

oxidised paint can be hit with cut wax, then re-waxed... for old faded paint it works pretty good. Not sure if it applies to "Van Nuys" paint though.
Far as I know it just needs to be repainted.

sellmanb

Sounds good.

Couple other Q: 's for you guys then

What different steps are required from painting metal, than the urethane (or whatever that is) bumpers? The headlight pockets on mine are spiderwebbed BAD.


Also, I have a little "sticker" that goes all the way around my car that is gold and black striped, and it looks LAAAAME It helps transition from white top to a black bottom, but I'd rather it not be there at all. I was suggested using a hairdryer to get it off, but I was curious if the heat from that would warp any of the panels or anything? Or if there's a better alternative to that.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Kevin is the expert at the bumper question for sure. plastic adhesion promoter? flex agent? the spiderweb is just in the paint right? Well these are all buzzwords to get you started...

However I tried to remove my decals with a heat gun, but they were so faded and scraped up it didn't do any good... Laquer thinner might help, or acetone... It didn't help me, I just used a scraper (gasket style), and a grinder... since i'm stripping it to bare metal to repaint....
Probably not the answer you wanted?

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

They make a rubber wheel. That is for taking of pin strips. or molding tape
http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat06.html#533et.

U can buy just the wheels and use a drill. But make sure u u don't spin it to fast. Low rpm's

JeffW

eastwood also has those rubber wheels if you have used eastwood before. you need to get all that sticker stuff off and the glue also, you can just scrape it all off with a razor and then wipe it all down real good with acetone to remove the glue left behind.


for the bumper you have to sand it all they way bare, since the spider cracks are to the urathene bare bumper. if you don;t remove it all it will just come right back. there are some good posts on front nose prep if you grab a search. did you look at the sticky from kevin g on repairing urathane, it may have some stuff in there too.

jeff

sellmanb

I havent had any luck w/ Eraser wheels. They always seem to take off the clearcoat too. So I'll just use a razor and acetone then

I did read the prep thing Kevin G made, but I was just wondering if there were any tricks, or hard parts or anything that y'all might've wanted to share