Door alignment; what kind of shop?
#1
Door alignment; what kind of shop?
Before I get people telling to try it myself, I simply don't have the time.
My door doesn't seem to want to shut completely. It latches so its not like it going to fly open but its not shutting completely. You can hear road noise (which drives me nuts) and you can physically see the door not shutting completely with the lines of the car.
What kind of shop do I take it to? Basic mechanic shop or a body shop? Who would be more likely to fix it completely?
Before you ask, no; There's nothing prohibiting it shutting (ie seatbelt).
My door doesn't seem to want to shut completely. It latches so its not like it going to fly open but its not shutting completely. You can hear road noise (which drives me nuts) and you can physically see the door not shutting completely with the lines of the car.
What kind of shop do I take it to? Basic mechanic shop or a body shop? Who would be more likely to fix it completely?
Before you ask, no; There's nothing prohibiting it shutting (ie seatbelt).
#3
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Take it to a body shop. You'll probably need a hinge pin kit installed. You can check by lifting the end of the door and checking for play in the hinges. You'll notice if there's too much slop. If the hinges are pretty tight, you may only need the alignment adjusted. Be careful though, they can realign a door that needs hinge pins and it will work fine for a while without fixing the real problem.
#4
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Car: 55 Chevy (the only one that counts), 80 TA, 85 TA, 87 FB
Engine: BBC, BBC, SBC, none
Transmission: M-22, TH400, TH350, none
I agree with "naf"...take it to a body shop.
#5
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Car: 92 Camaro (R)eally(S)tock
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto 700r4
I have a similar problem. If i can move it at the end of the door does that mean i need hinges, or can i just replace the pins.
#6
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Car: 55 Chevy (the only one that counts), 80 TA, 85 TA, 87 FB
Engine: BBC, BBC, SBC, none
Transmission: M-22, TH400, TH350, none
It depends. If you fix the problem early enough, just the pins and bushings. If you wait too long, the pin will cut through the brass bushing, and wear into the hinge; when this happens, you have to replace the damaged portion of the hinge (the hinge is considered 2-piece, car side and door side).
#7
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Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
Take it to a body shop, should charge you 75 bux a door, at least thats what we charge at my shop, but we are in NY so it might be cheaper down there, all they need is some bushings and pins and aligment after that, i did it to mine and my doors wouldnt even close or open easy at all, now like butter, needed to since the shaved door handles.
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#8
Before you take it to a shop... Shut the door and lay down next to the door (outside the car). Look at the gap between the bottom of the door and the rocker...does it look to be pretty even? If not, take it to someone who can replace the hinge pin'(s). If the gap is even then the striker post on the door jam is out of position and is a simple 5 minute fix. The "nut" it screws into is on an eccentric. Just loosen the striker post (don't remove it), when it is loose you should be able to spin it, not just the post, the entire assembly. You'll notice the washers no longer sitting in the same place (dirt will give it away), move the assembly so that the post is in towards the inside of the car further.
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