paint and body work guys
#1
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Car: 91 formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: t5
paint and body work guys
ok so i was really bored today so i decided to start sanding the nose of my car and get it ready for paint after the accident
this is what i accomplished, i filled the areas that needed it and smothed it all out, it is toally smoth and ready for primer, atlast i thin it is ? does it look like i should go down further with the sanding, i sanded all the areas that had cracked paint right down past the primer which you can see and any ares that had chips right down the primer to smooth it out, i had to use a little juice to fill in a few spots and i filled in the holes for the license plate bracket...
how does it look ? should i go down further ??
the next step is a high build primer right? where can i pick that up or would it be ok to just spray it with rattle can primer for now ? iassume i dont wnat to let the moisture get into the bondo and such
this is what i accomplished, i filled the areas that needed it and smothed it all out, it is toally smoth and ready for primer, atlast i thin it is ? does it look like i should go down further with the sanding, i sanded all the areas that had cracked paint right down past the primer which you can see and any ares that had chips right down the primer to smooth it out, i had to use a little juice to fill in a few spots and i filled in the holes for the license plate bracket...
how does it look ? should i go down further ??
the next step is a high build primer right? where can i pick that up or would it be ok to just spray it with rattle can primer for now ? iassume i dont wnat to let the moisture get into the bondo and such
#2
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I have used Dupli-color primer and primer/filler, then base/clear over it with absolutely NO ill effects.
#3
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Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
If everything is all smoothed out, then spray some adhesion promoter to the area (follow the directions), then lay down some primer. You'll want to use a guide coat and give it a quick sanding. This is where you will be able to detect high/low spots and for sandscratch swelling. This is where it needs to be fixed.
#4
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OOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHH MMMMMMMAAAAAAAAAAAANNNN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THAT"S NOT BODY FILLER ON THAT URETHANE COVER IS IT????!!!!!AAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! :nono: :nono: :nono:
THAT"S NOT BODY FILLER ON THAT URETHANE COVER IS IT????!!!!!AAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! :nono: :nono: :nono:
Last edited by KEVIN G.; 10-11-2004 at 03:50 PM.
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Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
Relah homie, even if it is and its not something like gorill hair, hes fine i use that **** all da time on bumpers and stuff, unless it gets hit in a accident, none of my customers had any problems with it...if you do it right it will never fail...
#6
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Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
haha here is that debate in detail in case you want to know why kevins post is such...
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ht=paint+booth
jeff
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ht=paint+booth
jeff
#7
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Car: 85 Iroc
Engine: V-TEC :)
Transmission: Knuter Valved
I just finished completly sanding down my whole front nose and spoiler right down past the primer ( had 4 coats of paint on it with wrong primer). I have done so many camaros my head spins thinking about it. Here is what you use and it is very cheap. You can use body filler to fill in small holes etc but I would not advise it as most ppl get bumped in parking lots etc and it cracks easily also alot of those fillers expand and contract during temperature changes from what Ive been told. For a filler I have found that a product called Dynatron filler works just as good and has some flexibility and ease of sanding, Ill see If I can get a product number for you if you like. Once you are all smooth go ahead and primer it with PPGs SX1044 (roughly 25$) and its ready to go out of the can no mixing. It sands ok but it is the only primer I will use now on flexible bumpers, GFX or the like. Anyways that is the best way to paint 3rd gen bumpers. Any questions just drop me a line.
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#8
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 5.7L stock
Transmission: 700r4
What you want to use on the plastic pieces for filler is a product from Evercoat called Poly-flex. It is SPECIFICALLY designed for flexable body parts. It's about $19.00 for a quart. Any automotive paint store should have it. If that is standard filler or putty for metal then take it off. It will come back to haunt you. A good build primer will come in handy too when you do the guide coat to make everything nice and flat . If you want to know if you sanded enough then your hands will be your guide. They are the best tools for feeling imperfections. If you can feel it in the slightest with the palm of your hand then it will show up in the paint. It takes a little practice to get the feel , but you will catch on. GMTECH is right . After everything is all smoothed out you will want to spray some adhesive promotor before the promer. It really makes the primer stick. If you don'y have it you run the chance of the paint chipping off the car the first time someone leans on it or pressure is put on the bumper. That stuff is only abot $15.00 from PPG or competitors. Also remember they key to painting the bumpers is keep the paint/primer layers thin. Just enough for coverage is all you want. Good luck bro. Also consider the grit of paper you are using. No more than 220 and end with 320 to 400. Don't want to see sanding scratches in that nice primer .
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