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Fiberglass frontend?

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Old 09-08-2004, 03:34 PM
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 - Stock
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Fiberglass frontend?

Has anyone here used a fiberglass setup? On the link below, there's a fiberglass front (both fenders and front clip). $695. Being all one piece interests me in weight savings...but if I crack up the left side again...I'm out $695.

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/8292cam.html

Also, here's a picture from their site - Photoshoped so you can actually see it.
Attached Thumbnails Fiberglass frontend?-frontend.jpg  
Old 09-08-2004, 03:56 PM
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Car: 92 RS, 05 GTO (sold), 10 TL AWD
Engine: 383 HSR w/DSC1
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Strange S60/3.73
only thing is that it appears to be for race car applications, not sure there is room behind it to fit things like bumper bar, headlight brackets and other such things
Old 09-08-2004, 06:28 PM
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Heck I got a Camaro nose sitting in my garage I picked up for $10 off of ebay.
Old 09-08-2004, 08:31 PM
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they are cheaper on www.classicindustries.com
Old 09-08-2004, 08:47 PM
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The galls front clips are 4inches longer then stock. Ya it could be trimes but its not really worht the fab work to put the lights in etc.

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/oth...S/DSCF0010.JPG
Old 09-09-2004, 02:53 PM
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Thanks guys, it does appear to be meant for a race tubular chassis trying to look like a Camaro, ranther than a stock Camaro trying to save a few pounds....like me. I'll just go GM steel and plastic to fix my damage.
Old 09-09-2004, 02:57 PM
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Originally posted by Half-FastRacing
Thanks guys, it does appear to be meant for a race tubular chassis trying to look like a Camaro, ranther than a stock Camaro trying to save a few pounds....like me. I'll just go GM steel and plastic to fix my damage.
believe it or not they're almost the exact same weight.. the fenders are just a outer skin, pretty lightweight.. no inner bracing, and the nose isnt that heavy.


what thats for is like you said.. when you put tubes inplace of the inner fenders for the struts and you want to remove the whole nose..... i know a few racecars with that nose... (most are ******* engineered POSs)
Old 09-09-2004, 09:51 PM
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back in the late 70's up till now... the sheet metal used to make the bodies were so thin that for mere weight reduction, fiberglass applications are useless and expensive... the only thing worth your time might be the hood, since fiberglass is structurally more hard than sheet metal, you gonna save the weight of the hood frame... but if you do it for weight reduction and not for aftermarket look... really it isn't worth paying 500 bucks... shave some of that extra weight inside of the car... and find a notchback instead of the huge glass behind our cars...
Old 02-03-2005, 05:49 PM
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notch back

trying to save weight on the wrong end of the car!!
Old 02-05-2005, 11:04 AM
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Re: notch back

Originally posted by Pappa Smurf
trying to save weight on the wrong end of the car!!
Huh?
Old 02-05-2005, 11:58 AM
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he means that there is tons more weight that you can shave off in the rear, as apposed to the front end where not much can be done to shed weight
Old 02-05-2005, 02:30 PM
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Ahhh but you don't want to lose weight in the rear.

Not until you have the ratio of front n rear figure out.

You can actual get the car to handle better by adding weight in the right spots.


Having the car balanced weight wise is a better mod then just pulling part n losing weight anywhere. But losing weight in the front is the best place to lose it. In general.
Old 02-05-2005, 02:38 PM
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Originally posted by Gumby
Ahhh but you don't want to lose weight in the rear.

Not until you have the ratio of front n rear figure out.

You can actual get the car to handle better by adding weight in the right spots.


Having the car balanced weight wise is a better mod then just pulling part n losing weight anywhere. But losing weight in the front is the best place to lose it. In general.
Exactly! That's why all or most drag racer's relocate the battery to the back.You are suppose to have weight in the back for traction purposes.
Old 02-05-2005, 03:30 PM
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It's kind of a generic term i've heard throw around at the track, but they say if you take 30lbs off the nose and put it in the rear it's like adding 60 lbs to the rear with the weight transfer action taking place.
Old 02-05-2005, 05:16 PM
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Yep, speaker and amps in the truck can actually help if it provides you with more traction then the other guy.

Id probably just get a glass hood n fenders. Keep the rubber nose so you can bump stuff. I assume its gonna be a driver also.
Old 02-06-2005, 08:58 PM
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Fiberglass fenders won't help you out that much, I'd get a hood and a front bumper cover in fiberglass if your trying to lose weight. An aluminum bumper bar from an 82-84? 4cylinder car will also drop weight off the front. Alum. heads and a tubular kmember/arms Alum. waterpump and S10 manual steering box. lighter wheels, fiberglass dash.. depends if it's a weekend strip car or a driver and how much you wanna spend.
Old 02-06-2005, 09:14 PM
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The flames oh the flames..........

A SBB is 100lbs less then a SBC stock...............

Parts are not a porblem anymore.
PAE builds them for $6000 with stock block, heads, crank
with over 500hp


http://www.paeenterprises.com/paeframe.html

"One of the Most Underestimated Engines

The 350 Buick engine is probably one of the most underestimated engines, even by Buick people. These engines are well designed, they are built strong, not overbuilt. They are also the lightest of the "Small Block" engines, weighing 100lbs. less than a SBC. These engine have a super long stroke, as far as I can find, its the longest stroke of all the small blocks, by a good margin too. The bore size does suffer a little bit from this but torque makes horsepower and long strokes make torque. A chevy or ford has to wind up to a much higher rpm to come even remotely close to the torque that the Buick 350 puts out at 3200 rpm.
"
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