AutoX86Z28

im another who follows jeffs work. i follow it so i can see wut can happen when a person does the body work themselves. lookin good by the way

CaysE

A lot of people are following it, but he's basically circumventing the "3 pics per post" rule by doing this, and it's rough on the servers. I doubt that having 8 different threads would be a problem if he was hosting the pictures elsewhere.

JeffW

following the 3 pic rules.......and i only update once a weekend for the most part. This weekend was 2

i must ask since when is posting a problem? at least my post have been usefull to to quite a few people. Even though you are a mod i am following the rules of the boards. if i have done something wrong please clarify.

Thanks Jeff

JeffW

oh and i would gladly do this in all one post, but the 3 pic rule would be out and i would also ask for a sticky since it is being followed by so many. i could link to cardomain. if i have to.

no idea first time i seen this be a problem since this has been going for a few weeks maybe as much as 2 months.

Irhal

Jeff, what did you put beneath your basecoat? did you seal the surface correctly with primer? it looks to me as if you charged the basecoat too much and the bc's solvents came into reaction with that was beneath the coat... although I could be mistaking since alot of things can go wrong with a paint process and I wasn't there all the way to see what you did or didn't do.. if I can suggest something (although I never worked with hok) try to go lighter in your bc layers and wait the said flash time before adding another coat.. it will help you dispearse (sp?) your pearl so you won't have odd spots as you say and it will help ease the stress on the surface you paint.. thus lowering the chance of the paint going bad... bu tkeep the good work, painting a car isn't easy but very rewarding.. very ebautiful what you are doing

keep us posted!!

JeffW

yes i started with epoxy primer and the hok koseal II primer sealer, the base was 3 light to medium coats. i think i may have wet sanded to far in that spot but no way to go back and verify. it may have been bare urathane. since it was so low on the car i could of missed it. only thing i can think of......... rest of the bumper is perfect......oh and flash was perfect 15 minutes or so paint was dry to touch as in the tech sheets.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

looking good jeff.U know the last car I paint did the same thing as your ground effect did. My prob was the reducer was to strong for the sealer i put on and it lifted. Because i did not wait long enuff for the sealer to be all the way dry.

JeffW

sealer is about a week old, wet sanded yesterday....

Irhal

then you probably go too heavy on your layers Jeff... spray it "dryer" on the surface and that won't happen again... although I would suggest you repair thoughroughly that part for a good job... sending all the swollen paint, repriming and then painting again... wait a day so the paint can completely dry off and there will be no problem

I forgot.. do you have a touch up gun? that would help you greatly on this repair since you have only a very small amount of repair to do, you really don't have to repain tthe whole gfx part again

JeffW

ya kinda sucks oh well only a little spot sand it all smooth, re prime base and clear. i am still pleased with the results so far.

Hok clear is incredable although i have never seen any others but it is like glass when you get it to flo perfect.

so you think it was just to heavy in that spot and maybe did not flash completely after first coat... that could be it is low on the bumper would be a spot that could hold a ridge of paint could of been thicker there.....

i'll get a touch up gun for it, it will also work good uder the hood..

Thanks Jeff

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

I think thats what happen. Its a good thing it happen there. when it happen to me it was up on the sail panal from the top of the roof all the way down. I was super mad.

Irhal

no prob Jeff, I'm always happy to help.. if you have questions on blending the paint or anything else body wise don't be shy and PM me... I never worked with hok but the basic of bodywork is all the same... I have been a painter for 3 years now, professionally so without being a pro.. I am sure I can answer most of your questions

JeffW

great thanks for the offer, i figured i would work the blend towards the rear corner of the bumper since that would show the least. being pearl i would asume i should do the section on the side over blending at the bend.

KEVIN G.

Hey Jeff,
repairing that area is going to b a bit tricky with the candy paint, but first off you need to get that spot repaired. Sand it thouroughly, feather everything out re-prime and seal that spot. Don't get the primer too hot (wet), as it may react on the outer edges again.
As was mentioned before, you had a reaction to the new products. Basically, the new solvents reacted to the old materials. and everything lifted in that area.
As for the other controversy, I'm glad to see all the people stepped up and voiced their opinions. You've gleaned a wealth of knowledge in a relatively short ammount of time, and souldn't be admonished for it, 3-pic rule or not.

JeffW

Kevin,

thanks as always I appreciate your knowledge, although this is not the kandy paint so i can fix it. this was the gfx area with the regular platnium pearl, since everything was a new part on the bumper and the products hok i would say i shot the paint to heavy in that spot, and since it was just that spot when i hit the 2nd cost it lifted the first since it did not flash long enough since it was thicker.

gotta love the learning process

Jeff

88txiroc

It's not that you have done anything wrong. I was just asking that you consolidate your threads.

There is a three pic rule for uploaded images. If you host somewhere, like Car Domain, you can post as many third gen related pics as you would like to.

Plus, when people want to look for updates, they can just go to one thread. I would sticky it if there was enough interest. This is due to the fact that if we sticky a lot of things, people start to ignore the sticky.

JeffW

its your call thats why you get the big bucks

is there a way to considate them? let me know your wishes. i could grab all the text and start a new post if you sticky it for me.

and tell me how to post pics using a link.

Thanks Jeff

JeffW

how would you define intrest? there is over 200 reads on this one alone ( number 8). there is 500 on the extinguisher post.

speedingpenguin

iTrader: (1)

Looks good!

I dont see why its such a problem that he's creating a new post for every "stage" of the job...I could understand if he posted a new thread for every picture, but honestly....is 8 seperate posts gonna kill anybody? If space and stuff is really such a big issue, why not go back half a year and delete posts with no replys? the "Project Resurection" posts I bet will come in handy for many people in the future.....I just dont understand why when an thread that gets off topic and has no real information in it gets locked and not deleted, and a few posts that are completly on topic and stuff cause a problem.....I dunno....i'm not a moderator, I'm not very active here, dont mean to be disrespectful in any way....just stating my opinion.

Airpak

why do it in 8 when u can do it in 1? people wont have to go searching for all different stages of his restoration then, they can just go to 1 thread. n im sure it wont stop at 8. hes not done is he? there would be more.. and more..

88txiroc

Don't take it as me being a **** mod or anything. I am just trying to make it easier on people to find info and not crowd the server at the same time.

When people do a search, it really bogs the server down. When you get on TGO in the evening and it takes a while to load a page, it is due to people searching the MASSIVE database.

Sort of hard to explain. This will help cut down on the loads the server "sees". I am in no way a web designer or anything, just trying to make TGO flow a little smoother.

If you must create a new thread for each stage, try to title it with a name that people will be able to search for, sort of like a description.

EDIT: I am trying to merge your threads together, but it takes time. 7 and 8 are combined so far. I will continue to work on it.

Thomas

JeffW

looks good so far, wasn;t sure if it could be done... do you prefer i remot host pics going forward from car domain? just let me know how to remote host em and i will

thanks Jeff

JeffW

Air if you look back in post 8 we had discussed this, TGO has a 3 pic rule so to get by it i used multiple threads. Not really breaking any rules that way either. I would much rater have em all in one thread makes it easy to see the progress if anyone wants to follow the steps. and yes i am not quite done yet. maybe 3 more steps if all goes right. The only nice part of numbering them is everyone knew it was new infojust by looking at title.

88txiroc thanks for the combining looking goood is one to 4 going to be stacked on top of this one? fill me in on the remote hosting or can i contniue to post 3 pics per update? so then they will be here if i looose my link to domain then none of the pics will work later down the road correct. All depends on how TGO would like to use this in the future. if the pics are here it will work as long as membres search for body work ect. if i remote host pics and then loose my domain the pics won;t work anymore.

Ty jeff

Airpak

do you have any idea why they would have a 3 pics per post rule?
to reduce the amount of uploads so their webspace doesnt get used up too much maybe? if your going to be uploading the pics anyway, that does nothing. so im sure they wud rather you upload your however many pics in 1 thread than making 10 threads n still uploading that many pics. it doesn't make sense.

JeffW

that would be their call since it is their site. and yes pics do take up space and if there was no 3 pic rule we would wait for ever and a day for the boards to open. then there are posts that i wish had more pics. like step by step projects like this one. That is why i am asking to be able to continue posting in this thread if thay want the content. I think it is usefull to other members IF and that is IF they search. If i remote host the pics and the site goes away in a month or year the links will no longer work and won;t help as much. But it is their call their site.

Jeff

Airpak

thats all im saying. ask them. n go with that.

i never said just start putting up tons of pics in 1 thread. but newho.

gl with that.

JeffW

so what do you think of the project? tring to get back on track

jeff

88txiroc

Jeff,

I have decided to let you post a step-by-step with pics. I will allow you to post more than the 3 pic limit. Please do not post pics that are not vital to the thread.

Once the project is done, we can consolidate it into a tech article and then delete the whole thread.

If anyone has a concern or problem with this, please feel free to PM or email me.

Thomas

JeffW

thanks thomas i will stay on track with only related and important pics.

JeffW

Got a nice day today but the huricain will be messing with my weekend plans for the car tomorrow, today i will be doing the jambs and final touch ups on a couple small dents i found during guide coating. i'll post some info and pics tonight.

JeffW

so we continue.....

today i filled the last two spots i found after guide coating. They will get sanding tomorrow most likely and last shots of primer before paint.

after filling the spots i went on to taping and papering the entire car body. i covered averything that was not getting paint today. i cleaned the engine bay with wax n greease remover and got ready to prime with the 2k it had epoxy on it already.

so i started spraying at about 4 pm and finished up about 6:30.

first was the 2k primer on all the jambs and hood and engine bay. Then after flashing for almost an1 hour tech manual said 30 -1 hour. i mixed my base coat and shot three coats to get even coverage. This base shot real nice i can;t wait to do the body next week. After the base flashed i mixed up some candy cobalt blue. and shot 3 coats of the HOK kandy. It went on nice the bay is a pita to shoot with a full size gun. I need a touch up gun for this kinda stuff. I got one run with the candy in the dor sill area. no biggy since it will be covered with the sill plate. I put it on to heavy again like the rear gfx. lighting sucked in this area.

So once the kandy flashed to tacky not stringy as the tech manual showed. i grabbed my second gun and started the clearing. i put on 3 coats of hok uk35 clear. This clear shots real nice when i get to the 3rd coat i go wet coats and wow does it flow out real nice. as my clear coats flashed i cleaned the gun that the kandy was in. the reason for two guns is the dry time between kandy and clear does not give me time to clean gun it would miss the flash time and have problems. In between the kandy coats i mixed my clear so it was ready to go.

i use desicant dryers on my gun it works great for the water in the line. before i do the body i will have a large one on the two compressors i am using for the body.

pics are coming up.

JeffW

here is the hood in primer, low res pic you can see it is kinda dull. no more low res settings for me.

JeffW

here is the base color on the car, you can see my mixing notes on the write erase board in the back ground good refrence saves going to the book every time.

JeffW

here is the kandy shots....

JeffW

last pic for this update don;t want to post to many, but this is what it all looks like with the clear completed.

this is where the camera will not do it justice the color is much deeper and darker than the cam shows. maybe i will try one without the flash and see what i can get outta it. no biggy i guess. you can see the reflection of the hood latch in the paint

VILeninDM

I didn't even realize the full coolness of that last picture until you pointed out the reflection of a latch. And this is your first job. Jeff, to me you are *** right now :hail: :hail:

I am just starting the planning the stage and building the booth. So I still have all this ahead, but this is an absolutely awesome job.

Are you doing base/clear under the hood and door jamb areas?That's one thing I am still not sure about. If I should bc/cc, or get one stage paint for those and bc/cc for the outside of the car

camaro of solar

iTrader: (2)

lookin hella nice man!

cdh67

I know PPG makes a paint for doing jambs and interior areas that is a single stage. Its about half the cost of bc/cc. I am using it on my undercarriage instead of the 360 dollar a gallon orange. The prices of this stuff can give you a heart attack.

JeffW

i used the same 3 stages for the jambs and under good as the rest of the car. ( base,kandy,clear,)Hok does make a kandy concentrate that you can mix to the shade needed and shoot it once, but i figured it may be to hard to match the color.

you should have plenty of paint for the jambs and car in a gallon. i got 4 quarts and have only use 3/4 of a quart and did all the jambs and a test fender.

cdh what paint you using that cost 360 gallon? ,my base was only 100.00, kandy was 201. and the clear was 186. so from those numbers it would be 286 for base and clear. reducers are 35 a gallon.

Jeff

JeffW

this pic gives you a better idea of what the candy color really is. its a shot that the flash didn't wipe out the candy look.

Jeff

Irhal

do you have a fan or something Jeff? shooting the whole car in a garage like that must be a pain for the over spray cloud after a couple of minutes of shooting? how do you deal with that?

cdh67

Its a PPG 2002 Hugger Orange. A gallon of base in Deltron is 360 a gallon. Reddish color are always the most expensive.
btw- Your color isnt much cheaper. 100 for base and 201 for the candy is 300 for the base color. If that was candy red I bet its alot more expensive then mine.
KandiedZ- What was your paint cost?

JeffW

yes i had 2 fans running one pulling air in through the window and a second pedistal helping push out the door. for the body painting where there is more fumage i will be in my booth. i didn';t set up since the weather man said we would have 50 mph winds. guess what sunny out no wind..i could be painting right now.....

cdh base is the base is your hugger three stage paint? Kandy is an innercoat, i could of just cleared my base and been done with a metalic blue car. Not saying your price is wrong but that sounds alot for a base paint. I'm sure it will be worth it though nothing like the satisfaction of painting your own car, well when it comes out good that is

Jeff

VILeninDM

If you do jambs and such separate from the rest of the body, I am assuming at some point there is going to be a line where on one side the paint has been on a car for a while (week or 2), while the other side would have fresh paint. How do you blend these areas together? Do you feather the edge and overlap the coats (somehow)?

For undercoating a local paint shop suggested me to go with Chassis Saver made by Magnetic Paints. It costed me $68 for a gallon and they said it is more than enough to do the underbody. It says the stuff goes right over rust and is supposed to seal everything pretty good. It is not as strong as powder coating, but much more flexible, so they said the end result is almost the same durability.

This link had some more info about the stuff: http://www.rv-news.com/july2002/displaycase.cfm What do you guys think about this stuff? I was planning to use it on some other underbody stuff (rear end, a-arms, cross members...)

JeffW

see what i am doing next is soften the edges where it is needed kinda feather edge. and i hev bought some 3m tape that is made for door edges. i forget what it is called so i will look at it later and post up a pick when i use it. it is foam and fill the gaps in the jambs and allows for a soft edge.

so did you try that undercoat stuff? what do you do with it spray or brush on? por 15 is good for rears and part you mentioned nice black finish but doesn;t spray well.

jeff

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

Looking good geff. When i did my jams and doors i masked off the door opening. That way i was able to open the door i did the doors and jams all at once.Were the door hinges are i did before i put the doors on.than I scuffed it down were u could see it and shot it all. But that foam tape works good but one thing butting it on new paint be carefull when u take it off. That stuff is really sticky. They use that stuff at my shop one time when the painter was takeing it off.It pulled some of the paint of with it.

LD1985

.

JeffW

this weekend look like a good one to paint, weather is gonna be on my side. And i'm gonna take monday off. this way i can get 100% done painting and clearing.

Jeff

VILeninDM

Jeff, I think that undercoating stuff is similar to por-15 from what I've read. Same deal with no UV exposure. I haven't tried it yet myself (right now building a booth so I can do some sandblasting first). The shop told me it is sprayable, but it is much better to brush it on because it goes on thicker. The sample they had was brushed on and there were no brush marks or anything, just black, smooth and shiny surface. I'll will definitely post some pics when I start doing that stuff.

JeffW

por 15 lays out smooth with a brush too. i'll be interested to see whan ya get some one the car. Painting this weekend is now 100% i have monday off also so i have plenty of time to do it right.


Jeff