Flex Agent question 4 bumper covers
#1
Flex Agent question 4 bumper covers
Am I correct in assuming that I would need to ad flex agent to the primer, base coat and the clear coat?? I am assuming this only b/c all 3 coats will need to flex to a point being painted on the bumper covers right???
#2
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Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
it depends on the paint brand you purchase. hok siad i didn;t need it. but i did put bulldog adhesion promter and flex agent as a base for all primer, i used epoxy primer as my next coat after the bulldog. Check you tech sheets for the brand of paint purchased.
i have also had some people tell me that it was not needed as all it does is slow the paint drying process so you can mount the plastic pieces on the car. are you painting them on or off the car.?
i have also had some people tell me that it was not needed as all it does is slow the paint drying process so you can mount the plastic pieces on the car. are you painting them on or off the car.?
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Car: Camaro
Engine: 6.2L
Transmission: T56
You need flex in the primer and in the clear but not the base. It just keeps the paint flexible over time rather than allowing it to go rock hard and become brittle. If you are planning on keeping the car for more then two years I would use it.
#5
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Yes, it does depend on the brand, as some are only a retarder,
Your higher line paint companies, however, have a true resin flex that STAYS flexible throughout the process. and the life of the paint. I would advise this if it is in your budget, I've worked with both, and this is truly the best route. Especially if you are doing any type of repair on the cover, that will require any blocking.
The only place that is not necessary is in the basecoat, but definitely in the priming, sealer and clearcoat stages.
Your higher line paint companies, however, have a true resin flex that STAYS flexible throughout the process. and the life of the paint. I would advise this if it is in your budget, I've worked with both, and this is truly the best route. Especially if you are doing any type of repair on the cover, that will require any blocking.
The only place that is not necessary is in the basecoat, but definitely in the priming, sealer and clearcoat stages.
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