JeffW

Project resurection part one ..... titled it wrong oh well

well i started the painting today, got a late start and alot of fumbling around making sure everything was ready. so i shot one coat of epoxy primer. took a while to get the feel for the gun but once i got going i think it went alright. Will only get better i'm sure.

I set the gun up to the instuctions and adjusted and played. no problem there getting the adjustment i want. i used a 3m respirator worked well could not smell a thing. Not the most comfortable thing to wear so i will be glad when my fresh air hood arrives.

so i sprayed the car and got a couple of drips of water from the air hose. but nothing out of the gun will have to fix that. i am running a desicant dryer at the gun and a water filter unit at compressor. So i will have to find out what happened to cause the water drops. nothing that hurt the paint thought.

i have to slow down and watch my distance and get some better lights had a hard time seeing what i was doing. so the paint went on kind dry in a few areas due to my movements. and now that it is done there are a couple of specs in the primer, i will sand tomorrow and shot another coat to get a wetter finish.

here is a couple pics.

Jeff

JeffW

here is one from the front kinda dark

JeffW

on the last shot you can see they dry spot in the hood where i didn;t put enough paint down.


should i coat again with some epoxy or just move on to 2k primer. if i got it right after the 2k then i can do the filler work and block and 2k again and block and wet and and and ....

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

looks good. what i did for the water from the hose is i wrap a few paper towels around the hose and the filter than taped it.Its pretty hard not to get water from there cause of that filter u have on it.dry spots in primer is ok cuz it drys fast.When u do the base it drys a little slower than primer and the clear dries alot slower than the primer.So don't spray to much.First coat but on dry than the 2nd coat will have something to stick to.

JeffW

water was spitting from the bleed on the pressure regulator.

i did get some water out of the compressor i will have to warm it up better next time. the water didn;'t bother the primer any it driped on to the top of it so once the primer dried i just wiped the water spot off.


i'm pleased no runs or sags, hope i can say that after the clears.

Jeff

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

yeah thats cool but if that what drops on the clear or between the base and clear u will not be able to wipe it off.The same thing happen to me and they would not wet sand out so i had to repaint it.

JeffW

ya that would suck there is enough chance of me messing something up without the water issue. i will be filtering before the hose 2 or 3 times if i have to.

i am also picking up a compressor from work to double my volume and capacity both will be running and connected together this will help cool em both down and give me plenty of cfm for the clear work.

Vaker

lOOKING GOOD! Can't wait to get my TA painted

85silverz28

just to let u know, sence u let the primer completely dry ur gunna have to sand the hole car with 320 before shooting it again. Other wise the primer will not stick very well. With the 2k primer make sure u put on three wet coats on. About 10 min. between coats. Then block it out with 320. Do u plan on using a sealer?

KEVIN G.

Epoxy's are a little different than your standard primer, Your recoatability should be an effectively longer span. I wouldn't, however, wait too long, at the very least, you should scotch brite the entire vehicle.

JeffW

yep kevin is right, the omni epoxy gives you 3 days to reshoot per tech page. i would not rely on 3 days but i scotch paded it any way to take of the little nibs here and there.

thanks for the tips

jeff

JeffW

so today i tacked the car one major step i forgot yesterday. never opened the package thats how i know i screwed that step up. Now i know why i had so much junk in the epoxy.

so yesterday i scotch brite paded the entire car to take off the nibs and cleaned with post sanding cleanre and then grease and wax remover.

today i sprayed another coat of expoxy primer, let dry and hour or so and the shot two wet coats of hok koseal II. This stuff freaked me out. it has metalic in it since i am using metalic paints. Hok said it was no problem sanding and all after sitting two hours. and it is still high build. I still have to put some filler on my doors where i took all the old junk out and fixed the dents.

so after filler and block sanding with guide coat i will be shooting more of the koseal primer sealer. product can be used like 3 diffrent ways. mixing took a little thought since it it 4:1:1...but i got that right. so tomorrow will be filler and alot of sanding.

here are 3 pics. more are on my cardomain site

Jeff

JeffW

pic 2

JeffW

last pic as per the rules

Midnight Sun

OoOo Very purdy.

Good job man, now hopefully you can keep up the good work through the rest of the coats of paint... How many you have to do like 15?

JeffW

ha ha ya some crazy number like that. i have started blocking tonight sands pretty good. i got like 1/2 car done some filler added here and there. more blocking tomorrow and then more primer and guide cote at that point.

lets see 3 primers to go
3 base coats
5 candy coats
2 clear
2clear

ouch 15 more to go
no wonder my paint pile is so big.

Midnight Sun

That is why I went with a single stage. Paint and primer.

But damn.. that primer is nice. If I were you I would just shoot a clear coat over it and call it done.

Seriously, I have never seen a primer that cool looking silver before.

JeffW

if the primer looks this good i can't wait to see the color on it.
it does need sandiung though there is some ruff stuff in it in areas.

jeff

JeffW

with all the body questions this may help on top.

ttt

JeffW

bump ttt

tom3

Made an air dryer for my compressor. Same thing as a cool can for a race car fuel line. Take a plastic bucket, coil of copper tubing, wind it around inside the bucket with compression fittings on the tubing ends. Run the air through the tubing with the bucket full of cold water, let the hose run it in while you paint to keep the water cold. Run the output through your filter/dryer. Cooling the air will bring the moisture out and into the filter.

Spdfrk1990

I try to use the less amount of paint as i can with good coverage. On the base if its good paint 2 coats is usually enough and i usually do 2 coats of clear the third i notice more orange peal 2 coats comes out the slickest. I still wet sand and buff of course. Also with alot of paint it seems to be less flexable.

JeffW

hey thats a great idea.... i was going to grab a refriderated dryer from work but i think they would miss it

i'll have to rig that up.

thanks jeff

JeffW

deleted

JeffW

doh

JeffW

check out parts 2 and 3

JeffW

Project resurection part3
part 3 i don't know how many parts this will end up with but oh well.

so the past few days i have been block sanding the car some with the d/a cause i was getting lazy. 400g on the d/a worked just as good as the block to get me close then i finished with the block.

so i also started all my filler work and some guide coating tonight.
so far the only filler in the car is the two door where i took out the old filler and repaired some poor previous old damage and a cople small spots on the hood. there is less filler than what i found in the door so i am happy.

the drivers door is all done and ready for guide coat and reprime, the passenger door has more filler work to be done. the work is around the bend in the door the body line for the side of the car so i am taking it slow tring to get the lower part straight before going up to the body line as i don't want to much filler there.

i had one small spot of filler on the hood that i also completed and is ready for primer the guide is done on the hood. so here is some progress pics. thanks to all that have left great comments and helpful advice. I hope this thread helps others that want to attempt to paint there car too.as my first real attempt so far i am please with the progress. and i walk away when i had enough rather than rushing it and having a crappy outcome.

oh also tonight i took off my t top weather stripping. i was not getting good paint coverage in that area, the strips were about 2 years old and came right off with no problem and didn't rip. so i was thrilled with that. the t bar is another story, if you glue one in don't plan on taking it back off in one piece. oh well i can get a new one from hawks.

Jeffw

JeffW

you can see where i stopped blocking on the door in the last pic.

this is the hood ready for repriming

JeffW

this is the door damage i'm filling. it was not pulled out prevously repaired. they just filled it even with bondo. so it will take much less now that i pulled it all out.

thanks for looking and any tips by all means post em up.

Jeff

KEVIN G.

Hey Jeff,

I have been searching for posts on your project all weekend...
You musta been bustin your ****. I'd make sure those holes are filled... (welded preferrably) but dura-glas at the very least... You want maximum holdout, Also make sure you undercoat the s**t outta the back side.
The last thing you need is your candied job pushing bodywork through before its' time.

JeffW

so spray undercoating inside the door?

i have no welder so the best it gets is filler... if it doesn't hold the door will come off and get stomped on an tossed in the dumpster

thanks

Red87SC

put a piece of metal mesh behind the hole, then fill it. when that dries, put some more filler on the other side of the metal mesh, itll hold, thats how most people shave body molding holes.

88txiroc

I have merged part 1, 2 and 3.