Steering wheel tightening? how to?
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Steering wheel tightening? how to?
My steering wheel is coming loose and wiggling alot at the part where you can adjust it up or down.
How can I tighten that up? I cant see a place to get in there to tighten what I hope is a bolt.
How can I tighten that up? I cant see a place to get in there to tighten what I hope is a bolt.
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Its a fairly comming problem, mine does the same thing. From what Ive read there is something in there that gets loos and you have to take the whole steering column apart to fix it.
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
well Im sure someone has had the same problem and been able to fix it. Maybe someone will chime in and let us know how to get in there and what to tighten. I dont feel like paying to have Chevy dealer fix it when I can do it myself...
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
holy crap, I just found the way to fix it using the search button. That seems like a lot of work just to get to those botls.
The guy that put in my delay turn signal lever should be able to fix it, right?
The guy that put in my delay turn signal lever should be able to fix it, right?
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Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
It involves pulling the wheel, locking plate, turn signal switch and lever, hazard switch, ignition cylinder(paying attention to the warning buzzer clips), and column cover(paying attention to the brights rod). It sounds scary, lol, but it's not.
Once you get back that far, you'll see the bolts that you'll have to tighten. They're torx-head, but a hex-head socket will work. But when you reassemble it all, pay close attention to the thin rod that contols the brights. It fits in sync with the column cover as you reinstall it.
There's a tech article in the 'general repair' section that goes into detail.
Edit: lol, that was good timing. you found it.
Once you get back that far, you'll see the bolts that you'll have to tighten. They're torx-head, but a hex-head socket will work. But when you reassemble it all, pay close attention to the thin rod that contols the brights. It fits in sync with the column cover as you reinstall it.
There's a tech article in the 'general repair' section that goes into detail.
Edit: lol, that was good timing. you found it.
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
mine does it too, Your right it does seem like alot of work. Thats the reason why im not fixing it. Ill just end up puttin a straight coloum in it one day.
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Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by LAFireboyd
It involves pulling the wheel, locking plate, turn signal switch and lever, hazard switch, ignition cylinder(paying attention to the warning buzzer clips), and column cover(paying attention to the brights rod).
It involves pulling the wheel, locking plate, turn signal switch and lever, hazard switch, ignition cylinder(paying attention to the warning buzzer clips), and column cover(paying attention to the brights rod).
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Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
I don't remember who it was, but someone recently posted(maybe a month ago) that happened to him. Well, not off a cliff, lol. He obviously survived whatever happened to him.
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Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by LAFireboyd
Once you get back that far, you'll see the bolts that you'll have to tighten. They're torx-head, but a hex-head socket will work.
There's a tech article in the 'general repair' section that goes into detail.
Once you get back that far, you'll see the bolts that you'll have to tighten. They're torx-head, but a hex-head socket will work.
There's a tech article in the 'general repair' section that goes into detail.
Which of the items here is the one with four bolts to tighten?
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Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
I sure don't remember so many parts in there, lol! Now I see why people are intimidated by it. But it's really not as scary as that exploded view makes it look.
From what I can tell from that pic, #52 are the bolts to tighten, and they'll secure #54 to #55. But to see and reach them, you'll go through #37 with a long thin, either nut driver or socket extension, and just tighten the crap out of them!
I've read of some guys removing the bolts and putting loctite on the threads so they don't come loose again(because they probably will). But if you're gonna try getting them out, be sure you've got a strong magnetic extension on them, cause if you drop it down into the column, you'll have a lot more work to do!
From what I can tell from that pic, #52 are the bolts to tighten, and they'll secure #54 to #55. But to see and reach them, you'll go through #37 with a long thin, either nut driver or socket extension, and just tighten the crap out of them!
I've read of some guys removing the bolts and putting loctite on the threads so they don't come loose again(because they probably will). But if you're gonna try getting them out, be sure you've got a strong magnetic extension on them, cause if you drop it down into the column, you'll have a lot more work to do!
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Car: 88 Camaro S/C
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Hey my column is loose at the front, like right behind the steering wheel. The part of the wheel which actually turns. It moves forward and backward, as well as side to side and up and down. What can I do for this?
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Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
The trouble with exploded views like the above pic is that they tend to make assemblies seem a lot larger(in this case, longer) than they are. Believe it or not, nearly every part you see in that pic, when assembled, fits inside of part number 18(the column cover). And the joint in question is about 4" behind the wheel, at the back edge of that column cover(behind the ignition cylinder). That's where the tilt mechanism is and where the four bolts inside loosen up.
So if that's where yours is flopping around, then your problem is the same, but maybe you(or me/us) are just describing it differently. But if yours isn't flopping there, but the shaft itself is flopping around from somewhere inside the column, then I don't know what that problem might be. I've heard there's a part deep inside the column that can break and allow the shaft to move around. If that's the case, then hopefully someone who knows will read through this topic.
But take a close look at yours again just to be sure. I'm still thinking your problem is the same as the others.
So if that's where yours is flopping around, then your problem is the same, but maybe you(or me/us) are just describing it differently. But if yours isn't flopping there, but the shaft itself is flopping around from somewhere inside the column, then I don't know what that problem might be. I've heard there's a part deep inside the column that can break and allow the shaft to move around. If that's the case, then hopefully someone who knows will read through this topic.
But take a close look at yours again just to be sure. I'm still thinking your problem is the same as the others.
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
So is it hard to take apart and put back together? seems like alot of small parts that can easily be lost or end up down in the shaft.
I guess I'll give it a try this weekend and just take my time and see how far I can get.
Taking anything apart is easy, its just the putting together the right way that a find hard looking at the diagrams.
I heard Vader haas pictures that he took when he did this to his steering....I wish he would post them.
I guess I'll give it a try this weekend and just take my time and see how far I can get.
Taking anything apart is easy, its just the putting together the right way that a find hard looking at the diagrams.
I heard Vader haas pictures that he took when he did this to his steering....I wish he would post them.
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Car: 1985 Iroc-z Camaro
Engine: L69 5.0 HO
Transmission: 5 Speed
http://home.t-online.de/home/O_Scholz/steering.html
Try the above link. Its on a GM column and should basically be the same. Very good illustartions.
Try the above link. Its on a GM column and should basically be the same. Very good illustartions.
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Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
LOL! It's not that bad--really! You'll see when you do it.
That's a good article bluroc, nicely illustrated. I wish I'd had that a few years ago! My Haynes manual was useless, so I went to a junkyard and just started taking things apart 'til I got it, lol.
Good luck guys, and have fun!
That's a good article bluroc, nicely illustrated. I wish I'd had that a few years ago! My Haynes manual was useless, so I went to a junkyard and just started taking things apart 'til I got it, lol.
Good luck guys, and have fun!
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Car: '89 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by KBeez
Hey my column is loose at the front, like right behind the steering wheel. The part of the wheel which actually turns. It moves forward and backward, as well as side to side and up and down. What can I do for this?
Hey my column is loose at the front, like right behind the steering wheel. The part of the wheel which actually turns. It moves forward and backward, as well as side to side and up and down. What can I do for this?
#19
I've done about 5 of these GM columns. Its not all that difficult only time consuming. It requires apprx $50 worth of specialized tools.
The bolts are the usual cause, but I've also had one or two that were loose because the pivot pins (28 in the diagram) were backing out. Tapped them back in place with a hammer, and they were 100%. Also, its pretty easy to strip the screws, they thread into cheap pot metal or aluminum. Don't overtorque them or your column will become a really nice boat anchor.
90-up cars also have the ignition coil for the airbag in the column, check a GM service manual for precautions so the SIR system doesn't get pissed off.
The bolts are the usual cause, but I've also had one or two that were loose because the pivot pins (28 in the diagram) were backing out. Tapped them back in place with a hammer, and they were 100%. Also, its pretty easy to strip the screws, they thread into cheap pot metal or aluminum. Don't overtorque them or your column will become a really nice boat anchor.
90-up cars also have the ignition coil for the airbag in the column, check a GM service manual for precautions so the SIR system doesn't get pissed off.
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Exactly how much harder is this going to be since I also have to replace #56 in that above pic, the lower column bowl/shroud thing? Mine looks like someone pulled it apart with a pair of pliers (to get at a broken wire actually..
) and I would rather not do this if it will be easier to drop in a junkyard column (I do like a challenge though... maybe I'll keep this one as a spare? )
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Car: 84, 86
Engine: 84 w/V-6, 86 w/305 V-8
Transmission: both auto
I knew if I searched long enough, I'd find what I was looking for. I can kind of see where mine is ummm, rather broken. I'm wondering If I should go and experiment trying to take one out at the wrecker and then install it in mine, or should I just bite the bullet and get a whole new column?
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Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
When the steering column on my '87 IROC was about to fall off, I finally decided to fix it myself, rather than pay someone else a couple hundred dollars. It was a hard choice, since the parts in the column are so densely packed and are all weirdly-shaped.
Using Vader's and others instructions made into an illustrated book sitting on the seat next to me, I followed the directions and amazingly, was able to fix it in one weekend.
Here's a few tips based on my experience -- the job is very doable, although quite intimidating; there is no need to completely separate the joint, as a socket and extension can be poked though the assembled unit to the torx bolts; get the plate removal tool shown below, it will save you from blowing your brains out in frustration; when the buzzer contacts were removed a very small contact inside the hole came down preventing reinsertion until manually pushed back up; and finally, be patient and layout the parts in order exactly as they were removed so the replacement process goes more easily.
I consolidated the project info along with content from Vader, Oliver Scholz and others into a PDF guidebook of 1.35 megs, it is located on my duck-page --
http://www.geocities.com/luckyducky_...ing_column.pdf
There's also a button to access the file.
And yes, I would do this job again, it's not that horrid...
Using Vader's and others instructions made into an illustrated book sitting on the seat next to me, I followed the directions and amazingly, was able to fix it in one weekend.
Here's a few tips based on my experience -- the job is very doable, although quite intimidating; there is no need to completely separate the joint, as a socket and extension can be poked though the assembled unit to the torx bolts; get the plate removal tool shown below, it will save you from blowing your brains out in frustration; when the buzzer contacts were removed a very small contact inside the hole came down preventing reinsertion until manually pushed back up; and finally, be patient and layout the parts in order exactly as they were removed so the replacement process goes more easily.
I consolidated the project info along with content from Vader, Oliver Scholz and others into a PDF guidebook of 1.35 megs, it is located on my duck-page --
http://www.geocities.com/luckyducky_...ing_column.pdf
There's also a button to access the file.
And yes, I would do this job again, it's not that horrid...
Last edited by Duck; 09-08-2004 at 01:22 AM.
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Yeah... and I'd like to add something in case someone has to change the bowl like I did:
You have to remove the steering shaft and the plates where the Torx bolts are (actually what the Torx bolts hold together) and then the bowl just pulls right off.
It's not all that hard, but don't forget about the upper bearing race and retainer when installing the lock plate... I bent mine..
You have to remove the steering shaft and the plates where the Torx bolts are (actually what the Torx bolts hold together) and then the bowl just pulls right off.
It's not all that hard, but don't forget about the upper bearing race and retainer when installing the lock plate... I bent mine..
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Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 305 (LG4)
Transmission: THM700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.23 non-LS
Probably a dumb question, but does this only apply to tilt steering columns, or are all at risk of getting loose?
thanks,
phil
thanks,
phil
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Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by phess11
Probably a dumb question, but does this only apply to tilt steering columns, or are all at risk of getting loose?
thanks,
phil
Probably a dumb question, but does this only apply to tilt steering columns, or are all at risk of getting loose?
thanks,
phil
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Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by Maverick H1L
Yeah... and I'd like to add something in case someone has to change the bowl like I did:
You have to remove the steering shaft and the plates where the Torx bolts are (actually what the Torx bolts hold together) and then the bowl just pulls right off.
It's not all that hard, but don't forget about the upper bearing race and retainer when installing the lock plate... I bent mine.. :doh:
Yeah... and I'd like to add something in case someone has to change the bowl like I did:
You have to remove the steering shaft and the plates where the Torx bolts are (actually what the Torx bolts hold together) and then the bowl just pulls right off.
It's not all that hard, but don't forget about the upper bearing race and retainer when installing the lock plate... I bent mine.. :doh:
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
There's a metal cone-like piece that holds the inner bearing race in place, or is supposed to, that locates itself under the spring and centers the spring on the shaft. That little doohickey came loose on me and I didn't realize it until the lock plate was bent...
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