orangetang

I'm doing some automotive bodywork/painting on my car, and the sandpaper/wooden block is really startign to get annoying. I know bodymen use 'dual action' pnuematic orbital sanders, but would a 5" electric orbital sander do the trick? Shops have compressors and other expensive gadgets, so maybe using Air > electricity is more convenient and reliable. Any advice? Most DA Air sanders are 6-8inch, and I have only seen electric sanders up to 5".

Will the smaller size make waves and crap in my metal, or will it work for the one project I plan on using it for?

What the hell does 'dual action' mean anyway?

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

I think it would work.Never used one on a car but i don't see y it would mess anything up.I would use the wood block when blocking the primer.Dual action means it moves side to side and up and down and turning.

Mirror Image

iTrader: (2)

If you wont to make it nice and straight then you need to use a block and gide coat a DA will not do the job

orangetang

I'm just planning on using it for paint removal... anyhow, I bought a mastercraft maximum brand one today for pretty cheap.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

well how far are u into the body work?i sand my filler down with a 900(mud buster) than use the da for the glaze coat than i block .But if u have done alot of bondo work and keep the da flat most of the time just blocking the primer is good enuff. u can get away with a da.But he did not really say what he was doing.

Z28GEN3

not sure if all DA's are the same, the one i have requires(90psi) of air, a conventional (hobbyists 5hp) compressor cant keep up, i've popped my circuit breaker too many times because it drains the (13gal) tank in about 7 seconds. i prefer the DA for paint removal but the sanding block is what i use most of the time.

JestahX

I am currently blocking my car so it can be primered. It isn't THAT bad. The first few hours i thought it really stunk. When i started to get frustrated or tired of it, i just walked away. 1-2 hours a night and 2 weeks later you are really surprised at what you've accomplished. I am basically done after 3 weeks of 2-3 hours here and there, not working every night...in fact if it was a straight week and a half of 1-2 hours a night i'd have it primed by now.

I was told first timers shouldn't use DA sanders because you'll get bullseye.

If you have the time use it.
Really take some pride in your work and it will show up in the end product.
Good luck!

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

I was told first timers shouldn't use DA sanders because you'll get bullseye.

wait i was thing of a fisheyes from the oil from the DA whats a bullseye?Thats the best way to block a car is just take your time if u get tierd stop and come back.I do that way or get my girlfriend to help me lol.

JestahX

Bullseye= Leaving sander in one spot for too long, going too deep in some areas making low spots (pressing too hard or staying in the same "general" area for too long) also going over some of the bended parts of fenders or rolled areas of the car can take the paint down to metal real quick leaving it uneven.

So im told and also experienced when sanding my old '82 Chev truck.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

O ok I got u .Like if u don't feather the edges out.

orangetang

I bought a mastercraft obrital sander, and it works fine. I sanded half the roof, and some other parts today, aswell as cleaned up some bondo work. I'm not going to bother sanding the entire car down to metal. the hood, right fender and both quarter panels are just going to get a light 400grit sanding down to the existing primer. As for bullseyes, I think you would need a sander which rotates to cause any damage. Orbital sanders don't spin. The tops of the window sills in the doors are pretty curvy. I'm being rushed by the weather outside, so I wasn't gentle. I'll let you know if there are any lasting ripples in the paint once it's laid on. Right now, it looks ok.