Kingtal0n

Paint my 2 camaros and a Mazda MX-3 in the next week or two, I have a Compressor with a water separator and 2 different guns one for primer one for the other coats...

What kinds of paint should I be using? I was told PPG, but then i hear all these different model numbers DPPX this and ZXY that.

I also hear about self etching, non etching, what is that?

And Orange peel, what is it, where does it occur, and how do i get rid of it properly?

Whats different about Enamel and all the other kinds of base coats? what should I be using?

DO i Sand each layer of base coat?

Do I sand each layer of clear?

Final grit on the primer should be 500-600 right? when is enough enough? Sometimes I get it like "glass" but when it dries i see streak marks, like scratches. Un-feelable, but in the light i see them.

Im in the middle of doing body work, and I see some teeny pinholes that not even bondo will fill because they are so small. they are in the fiberglass hood. Will the primer fill these up?

I was planning on doing a "Racing stripe" down my friends MX-3. My idea was use spray paint in the color of the stripe, paint it down the middle, then tape / cover it off when I did the base coats so no base coat got to that spot leaving a stripe of that color there. then clear the whole thing... Does that sound like it would work?

For the interior, all the spots that need to be changed to the new color I was going to just use spray paint because a big sprayer wouldnt exactly be easy to use insides..

SO what do you guys recommend?

Kingtal0n

Also the front end of my camaro is really screwed up with old paint Ill show you a pic...

What should be done about this? can i sand it all out then paint it?

I heard there was a special "additive" for paint that goes on this part of the camaro, to keep those stress "cracks" from occuring below the front headlights. is this true?

Kingtal0n

ttt plz help!!!

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

use dupont chromabase system, base, clear.

Sand it all down to where you are pleased with the body work and you dont need to go any more crazy then 320 grit b4 paint on the primer, no need to sand down the coats of paint at all, just the last coat of clear, once is dry wetsand with 1500 grit and buff and polish, you will fall on your *** from the results....

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

or try the Ppg DBU paint line and clear coat cna be DAU2 but youll also need DAU82 and DT870 to just clear the car. the DBU line is pretty good stuff you'll need the DBU color and most likly DRR1160 reducer enless you can get the temps where your goin to be paintin to aorund 75* then you can use DRR1170.

but if your tight on money you can try the PPG Omni line of base/clear, from what ived been told is its good for the price but you'll need to get everything from the Omni line.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

this i did with the DBU base coat and the DAU clear and i havent wet sanded and probably wont becuz i dont wanna kill the paint.

pskel350

PPG is a really nice paint. thats what was used on my car, but be prepared to pay for PPG unless you get the omni line, which i wouldnt recommend.

Lhorn

What is the difference between Chromabase and DBU?

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

dupont and ppg, tahts the difference

Kingtal0n

Ok well i see a couple ways to do this then, how much worse is Dupont than PPG? and how much more is ppg paint?

Whats wrong with the omni ppg?

I planned on wetsanding / buffing the finish because i just know it will be messy with me doing it outside. I do plan on keeping it out of the sun during spray, and im putting up a large tarp completelly around the car to keep debree out.

I am on a budget, i was planning on going with a Silver or Fire type color. anything wrong with that?

acescarrsRS

I used PPG & it came out awesome. But like said above, be prepared to pay.

maverick351ci

First the bumper will have to me stripped all the way down SEM makes a urathane bumper stripper besure if you use a chemical (whitch i recogmend on plastic parts becuse its really easy to kill them with a da or just regular blocking)make sure it is urathane safe and made for doing bumper

as for paint thats a different subject it all depends on how much you want to pay and how good you want it to look
if you want a relitivly cheep paint but a good long lasting shine i would recogmend the sherwin williams BC/CC

no orange peel is called orange peel becuse it looks like the serface of an orange it happens in all the stages of paint PRIMMER SEALER BASE CLEER it can be limited by how you spray its easy to get just minimal orange peel just by backing off your fluid control a bit and moving slower all your orange peel is controled within half a round of your fluid control now to get rid of it there are several things you can do first when you get donw with the primmer wet block the car with 400 wet and take it all ou of the primmer then you seal the car now remember you cant sand sealer or it will be just as good as the primmer and wont do its job (job of sealer is to make the color hold longer and to stop the bleeding of the primmer into the base and cleer) so you dont want to sand it or its not a "SEAL" anymore ok on to the base coat you shouldnt sand the base coat if you have any mettalic in it remember metallic is slivers of mettal to make a shinny glitter in the paint if you cand them you dull there shine there for you lose the effect of the mettalic in the paint now if you mess up the first coat of base you can lightly sand the spots after they cure and then recoat it most paint systems recogmend at least 2 coats of base i usually go 3 if i have the materials to do so and most colors are translucent so its takes 2 minimum to cover the car and 3 to make it "THERE" """""TIP"""""" base coat is not supposd to be shinny at all if you spray it so that it has a gloss you put it on too thick base coat should allmost be fogged on the firat coat should be definanly "anouther tip if you fog the first coat of base and the first coat of sealer you can stop 99.9% of FISHEYE (remeber to wipe the car down with wax and grease remover apply with one rag take off with 2 remember if it drys befor you wipe it off all you have done is suspended what ever is there you have to wipe it while it is wet dry it with a rag dont let it air dry use different rags for every pannel and use a tack rag befor you start and inbetween every coat and you will end up with next to nothing in your paint and no fisheyes)
so as i was saying the base should dry to a satin like apperance now if you have a solid color at this time you can color sand the car with 1200 grit wet and take out the orange peel dirt ect befor you cleer but remember you have to wait 24 hours after the base is sprayed to do so gotta let it cure..........
on to the clear same with the base only you want it to be sprayed with a wet apperance be carefull not to get it too wet or it will sag and run there is a fine line here between the "WET DIPPED LOOK" and a "RUN" this goes for most paints this is a basic guid to painting here but since you were asking about the differences between paints and what orange peel was i figured you could use a heads up if your going to do a compleet on the car figure that car to be out of servace for at least a month to get ready for paint prep work has the most effect on the total out come when you get it all done wait 24 hours min befor you wet sand with 1200 to take ot the rest the orange peel after you wet sand you will have to go trough different stagges of rubbing compounds on a buffer to get it back to the shine it had but if you wet sand it will be a little less glosy then what it would be if you left it so anyways i guess all i can tell you if practice makes perfect so practice some befor you spend a bunch of money on paint and then kick your self in the butt cuse it got messed up

hope this helps some and i think this is the logest post i ahve ever made on here i know there is tons of spelling errors in it but i expect that from inconherant rambling but hey man good luck with it you can see more steps by looking at my thread here
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=233021
later man

oh yeah one last thing be prepaired to spend at least 1000 on any 2 stage system pluss misc expenses of supplys and such
oh and yeah you will need "FLEX ADDITIVE" for your bumpers and plasic parts like your ground fx and gas cover or they will crack

400 is enough for primmer primmer will fill thouse scratches just fine

pinholes can be romoved with "SPOT PUTTY" aka "GLAZING PUTTY" ever coat makes a good one works good to fill 80 drit scratches and when the body work is just a little low it should be applyed translucent you will "blade it off" so it only filles t he inperfections just make sure you dont go over 1/8 inch thick with it

racing stripe same method only use the same paint system as what you are using dont mix didferent pait systems of you will mess the whole job up and spray paint allthough really cheep and sounds good in thery will fade really really fast and will probably wrinkel your clear coat

diffenet enamals use a urathane pased paint cures fast and you can wash the car the next day laquer paint has to dry out all the solvents in them if you use a laqure primmer its best to wait 90 days to paint color over that the solvents will flake the paint right off

allso you know it is time for the next coat when the paint is "HAND SLICK" hand slick meens when you can take your finger gently over the paint and got get any stuck to you allways test on a peice of masking tape on the car not the acually car your self unless you like finger prints in your paint if you wait to long after that stage you will have to sand (reprep) the paint and usually have to wait for where ever you stoped to cure for 24 hours or over night to not get a wrinkle in the paint

self etching primmer is a good thing expecially if you have any bare steal showing you need it allso make sure your primmer is DTM "direct to metal"

wm_sorg

Great information. Thank you.

maverick351ci

not a problem i thinking on making a tec artical on painting think anyone would be interested in what i have to say?

maverick351ci

not a problem i thinking on making a tec artical on painting think anyone would be interested in what i have to say?

Kingtal0n

You gave alot of very good usefull information, its just hard to read. i dont beleive you used a period anywhere between each sentance. im not picking on you or anything I really appreciate the help, but it took me 20 minutes just to sort it all out.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

i donno, us who work at shops and paint or just know about body work and how to paint should get in a chat and write up a painting faq, cuz i think i have written one about 50 times now to people on here...

wm_sorg

Yes! Extremely interested.

firebird89355

i think my single stage acrylic enamel cam out pretty good not knocking bc/cc but you may have some options if you dont mind a little extra work to make it look like this. plus ss is less expensive than bc/cc from what i researched on both and think you may wanna look at ss ae . just giving you some options my $.02.

thomas

p.s. i only spent about $130 on paint/hardener/activator and maybe another $100 on sanding supplies minus the actual d/a sander paint gun and etc. tools/

PyRo9862

That would be nice
I thought you clear coated a few minutes after your base, then colorsanded the clear.

3rdgenstm

Someone else had written on the boards that the flex agent wasn't necessary if the new paint was going on over existing paint that didn't have any cracks, flakes, etc. The reasoning was along the lines that the paint under it was already treated. So should a flex agent be added just when doing the bumper covers and front chin spoiler anyway??

Thanks

maverick351ci

you should allways use flex additice when you do urathane bumpers it doesnt matter if paint is layed down befor or not the paint that was down befor will flex and then the paint on top will crack so i say cut the chances of it down and use flex additive its cheep insureance for your paint job

3rdgenstm

Thanks, I'll pick some up. I am getting ready to do my car in the next few weeks. i have some sanding to do first, so it'll be a while.

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

Originally posted by Charged350
i donno, us who work at shops and paint or just know about body work and how to paint should get in a chat and write up a painting faq, cuz i think i have written one about 50 times now to people on here...

I would help out I'm a bodyman but have painted about 6 or 7 cars.Getting better ever time.The one thing I will add in is if u never have painted a car don;t spend a ton of money on the best paint.Get some cheaper stuff coz chances are u will wanted to do it again when get better at painting.The first time i did BC/CC I messed up bad. Just my 2 cents

Jstcrzyengh

iTrader: (2)

Well, if you want to do it right nad dont mind spending money PPG is great, but you should also look into HOK. Check out Kandieds car