I am starting to plan for my paint job. I read the stickys and the other posts but those didn't really help me any. If there are some good links to answer my questions, give them to me.

Here goes.

How much paint, primer and clear coat does a 3rd gen require for a pretty decent paint job?

Whose paint do you recommend (brand)?

What type of paint? Enamel?

What special things do I need for painting the nose, chin spoiler, and rear bumper?

I have (or can gain access to) the basic equipment. What other things should I need?

Would it result in a better job if the parts were removed? Remove the hood and fenders, doors, hatch panel, GFX, bumpers, mirrors, etc? The hood and fenders are being replaced anyway, so those I can spray those with them laying flat. But would it be better to paint everything else this way?

Of course cost is a factor. I want a good value, not cheap. I am not looking for a show winning paint job, just better than what is on it.

Sorry so long, but I just want to be thorough.

Thanks!

 

we need some info also like r you doing this yourself?? are you experianced?? do you got air?

do you want a enamel or a base/clear paint job.

what color you going? are you changing colors?

I recomend sanding out all the cracked paint on the flexable parts cause they come back easy on the new paint. Yes you can use special products for flexable parts. I say get a sandblaster and sand blast all rust out! and remove the ground efx to look at the metal underneath.

Just a word to the wise a DIY paint job is a hard thing to do...if you got any bad rust or paint chiping already makes things alot worse....plus its harder then you think to get panels straight.

 

Yes, my dad and I will be doing it.

My dad has painted cars before, a while ago. He did all the paint and body on a 2nd gen about 15 years ago. I have good experience spraying, so the mechanics of it aren't a problem.

Yes we have the common equipment, compressor, hoses, spray guns, sanders, stuff like that. It's good quality stuff, no chinese junk.

I'd probably stick with base coat/ clear coat with the original color (or close to it).

The soft pieces are the things that I am unsure about. There isn't any rust on the car-- one reason I bought it. The 2nd gen my dad did was about 50% bondo and fiberglass mat when he finished it! So we make sure now that we really look at these cars closely for rust.

I am not in a hurry to get this done. It is just my project/ toy car, so it can sit there for a month or more if it needs to. I have learned to take my time with things like this and do lots of research.

Thanks for the help. If you think of anything else, let me know.

 

DuPont Chromabase system

about a gallon of paint

about a gallon of clear, you also need clear activator

3 coats of paint

3 to 4 coats of clear, your choice

make sure that the final snading is doen with 320 grit sand paper and the car is primed, no rattle can bull****, use auto body primer. Wash it down with PrepSol and tack it down with a tack cloth.


Whatever you got off the car, paint it off the car, gfx mirrors and **** like that, you dont need to take off the bumpers it will be fine, if you are changing the color, then you have to paint eh jambs, doors and trunk and where the hood and fenders meet.

Take ur time, 5 mins between coats minimum, 10 is best.

same for the clear and paint. Once your doen, leave it for two days, then cut and buff away.

jus make sure you got proper temp to paint so it dries proper and not lift.

 

Thanks so much for the help. I was thinking of starting in late April/ early May before it gets too damn humid here. I like to do things the right way, so no way will Krylon hit my skins!

Thanks again. If you think of anything else, let me know.

 

yep thats what i got to dupont chromabase and clear on top. about the rust dont hold your breath untill those gfx are off....also cheak for hanging doors and rust underneath the doors themselfs and under the hatch lip and rear fender lips. Just remeber to sand off al or most of the paint (if cracked) on the flexable parts.

Im sure your dad knows the trick of alternating colors of primer and sanding then youll find low and high spots when sanding. And all rust has to be compleatly ground to bare metal Flat like or it will return.

Good time to think about clear sidemarkers or new outer window wheatherstiping and whether youll be painting the door handels and the locks and removeing and reinstaling new emblems or used ones and what about your side moldings. I got rid of mine and love it gone (got to park away from everyone tho)
Some things i wish i would of done a few yrs back when i got my car painted was shave the door handels or atleast do them body color.

 

another thing man, for the rear bumper and the nose you can get some BullDog, its a flex agent and adxesion promoter for the pant, so if it bends or whatnot, it wont chip as easily

 

Those are good points. I have already repainted the door handles and replaced the window strips. I think I am going to get rid of the side molding. The emblems are in pretty good shape considering age but if I have some money burning a hole in my pocket, I'll replace them.

Thanks! Keep em coming.

 

we use diamont base coat and Restorer's choice Clear coat..
the picture says everything.. (i know it's a mustang.. but it looks good)

 

that would be a lot better on a Camaro!! No, seriously that looks great! Would that be better left to a pro or is it forgiving?

 

A MU****G IN A 3RD GEN FORUM?!?!?!?! Thats just wrong! although the paint does look good.

 

That Mustang looks amazing!

What is "Clear Activator", by the way? (Looking for a more in-depth response than "it activates the clear ).

 

Well, thats what it does, nothing complicated. Clear comes as just clear, it wont harden, if it did, how would you ship it, you couldnt, unless you had a tap from DuPont in your shop lol..

Its a 4 to one ratio of clear to activator. Mix how much you need load it up in that gun, spray it and leave overnight and it will be bone dry in the morning. No activator, well you get the picture, it would look like you dipped your car into armorall and it will never dry, nasty ha.

Indepth enough for ya....

 

jcurrieirocz - can you specify the color you got on your Camaro? What is the DuPont paint code or part number for the Vintage Plum Pearl paint you used? That's an awesome color! :lala:

 

thanks for the compliments.. and insults.. haha i knew that was coming.. soon i'll have pics of my IROC done... and then you'll be impressed.. I am going to put 2 coats of clear over a black diamont base-coat, then wetsand and buff.. and 2 more coats of clear and repeat the process.. should be really deep
By the way.. the guy who sells us the clear.. actually makes it.. he's a scientist. told my dad that if he didn't like his clear that he would pay us back for everything it took to re-paint his truck (including labor) that was 8 years ago.. and we're still using it today

 

Yeah use a good quality paint such as Dupont or PPG. The better stuff is soooo much easier to work with. I would go base coat/clear coat. Very good durability and somewhat flexable unlike enamel. You will have to determine if you are going to sand down to bare metal or not. You might not need it and the old paint scuffed up can be a good adhesion promoter. Take the ground EFX off and other trim. You can leave the bumpers on. You need an additive for the abs parts depending on what sytem you use so you will have to go by thier instructions. Get a good primer sealer(epoxy primer works good for that) and a primer surfacer if you want that nice flat panel look. Keep block sanding the surfacer untill it is flat. It may take a few coats to get straight. Also don't forget to guide coat. Like said earlier about a gallon of paint and clear with the catalyst and reducer to go with it. The paint shop can give yo an idea of how much you need. Painting isn't that hard just a little time consuming. The body work is where the paint job will shine. So take your time and it will turn out great.

 

Thank ya sir.

 

Thanks man i love it too: best thing for you to do is look in the dupont factory match book of chips (filed by yr, then by manufatures) for this color and see what it looks like to you in real life...its a kicka$$ color in the sun for sure but on clowdy rainy days its kind of plain looking.....heres what i know about the color

Name: Vintage Plum Prl. Met.
Year: 2000
Car: Honda
code: RP32P
(theres another code here too not sure what it means tho): M4630K

when i was also looking for colors i was contimplating
Crysler Prowler Purple
Ford Cherry Black

 

Thanks for the info! I will look it up.

 

I used PPG on my project car for college. It worked out very well for me and I had no problems using the PPG system.

Used a little over a gallon of paint(he wanted a color change so it took a little more) and a gallon of clear. Car looks great (though now I have to fix it because the guy has already wrecked the front end @_@)

Moving on to my car this semester, it's going to be awesome when I get done.

Just remember to have fun, take your time and there's nothing sand paper cant fix. : ) good luck