goofnrox

I'm wondering how you wired in those transformers, since they don't work on DC, which is what is in your car.

MrDude_1

read ya dingleberry.


if you're really ambitous, you'll find the other power window motor thread and find my post on exactly what i did. :lala:

knhghs

The 4th gen power window harness has an express-down module on it. Im using the 4th gen window harness and switches, with 3rd gen motors. It works great. One touch and the window goes down all by itself.

goofnrox

Selective comprehension strikes again. My bad.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Yes they are. I had a 2002 F-150 for awhile and the windows were extremely fast.

However so are the ones in my 2003 Chevy truck. Your more likely going to be able to get something like that to work in our cars. That might be something to look into.

aaron7

iTrader: (7)

Any progress yet? I have 2 new doors and I would love to do anything to them before they go on!

Faded

Anyone have any insight on the long term effects on the motors when putting more volts to them?

aaron7

iTrader: (7)

Far as I know they can overheat. Don't know if you would be using them long enough too though!

Using a junk door and a variable lab supply, I was able to get that door up mighty quick with 24vdc! It pulled some serious amps too, though I forget how many. Possibly just putting bigger power wires would help the stock setup?

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

I just bought 2 new window motors (OEM) from A1 Auto with the hope of getting my window problem solved.
We will see what happens when I get a chance to installed them when we get a warm front in Chicago.

aaron7

iTrader: (7)

You having them put in, or are you going to do it? They use HUGE rivets! lol

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

I will do the install myself....
As for the rivets I will substitute them for good ole Home Depot nut and bolts.
My only concern is how good is these OEM window motors from A1 Auto.
Also what is the best way/solvent to clean the window tracks thats full of old grease and dirt buildup?

aaron7

iTrader: (7)

I went to use bolts and nuts, but ran into clearance issues... it was a long time ago though, and I don't remember why I couldn't do it!!

To clean the old guk out of the tracks I used a rag soaked with Dawn. Probably not the best way, but it works!

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

What brand of Window Motor did you use? How does they function compared to a before and after?

aaron7

iTrader: (7)

Whatever Advanced Auto Parts stocks. They were like $24 each.

Worked the same as my tired old ones. It was the tracks and alignments that were out of wack.

Faded

I cleaned all my tracks with some dish soap and a coarse sponge while the regular/motor assembly was out.

After I put it all back in I sprayed liberal amounts of Lithium grease on all 3 tracks.

I used the 1/4" rivets from GM. I guarantee you will have a very hard time trying to find a 1/4" rivet gun anywhere, though. I ordered one from Habor Freight. It was only $20 with shipping.

Speed wise it's the same as it was before the last motor completely quit working.

89 tbi bird

Found the module at Autoloc

Firebirdie92

Yes the windows definitley suck due to many a things.
I have problems with both of my windows.

1. My driver side window will not go down unless some force is applied to it...I will go up if it catches in the right spot. I took off the door panel and checked it out, but it doesn't appear to be off track, i honestly don't have a clue!

2. My passenger side window rolls down ever so slowly, it does work, but it takes hellalongtime to roll up or down. Is it the relay or the motor?

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

For #2, the motor is going out. Eventually it will move slower and slower and then it won't move at all.

I've only done one window motor so far (have to do 3 more). I used this thread as a reference - https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...t=window+motor
and i used this pic as a template - https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/att...postid=1777631
Just have to make sure you print it out right. Made it really really easy to do.

White93z34

iTrader: (1)

i seem to remember the power windows in my s/c running VERY slow from when i was far younger when the car was still quite new, and all these years later they still do....

nedry

Another thought: if window weight's a variable in the speed equation and you're comfortable with the idea, you might consider Lexan windows.

The problem is, if ya got anything of value in there, Lexan becomes a REAL bad idea due to security--easier to get through it than standard auto-glass. But if you're only driving a performance rig, don't have a good radio in it our leave valuables anywhere inside... (Paranthetically, you'll shave a little off gross weight, which should help performance a little if you look for other weight reduction options too...)

Just a couple shiny new Lincolns.

For the guy who wanted self-stowing T-tops: Been watching a little too much Knight Rider again, have we? lol

2kflhr

iTrader: (1)

What if you installed a relay at the switch? Wouldn't that supply additional current.

MrDude_1

i made a small prototype thing to mess with.. basicly having a microcontroller pulse out a signal.. two inversed pulse signals makes a nice square wave i can feed a transformer... then rectify... a kind of DC-DC stepup powersupply if you will..

id need to make it cheaper (not a problem) but i was thinking if i fed 18v to my window motors, they'd go faster without much life loss...

i probly wont follow thru with the idea, but its something to play with.

MrDude_1

i started on it after reading this and some other similar pages:
http://murray.newcastle.edu.au/users...92/doubler.htm