Lightweight Hatch Glass?
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Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
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Lightweight Hatch Glass?
Hey,
Anyone know of somewere I could take a look at a lightweight rear hatch glass... like lexan or something?
Anyone know of somewere I could take a look at a lightweight rear hatch glass... like lexan or something?
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
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http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...71&prmenbr=361
scroll down for a complete set or individual windows.
The rear hatch over cut "speedglass" PN: 760-01136-2 costs 379.99
Trimed PN: 760-8-01137-22 costs 489.99
scroll down for a complete set or individual windows.
The rear hatch over cut "speedglass" PN: 760-01136-2 costs 379.99
Trimed PN: 760-8-01137-22 costs 489.99
#5
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This is something I've been thinking about also. Has anyone actually seen the fit and finish of one of these? Can the rear hatch still be opened?
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
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Wow I didnt know about that product. I'm very very interested in ordering a complete set for my project roadrace/drift car. I've sent them (Perry's) an email asking about our 3rd gen Camaro application. I'll let you guys know what they say. Basically I just asked how they recommend I install the kit. From the looks of the example car it looks like a flush install that will retain stock functionality, meaning the hatch still opens, wipers still work without scratching, and maybe even power windows would still work (LOL I'm not planning on doing that though). I'll get an answer from them and let you guys know.
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FYI ive heard random stories about people having serious traction problems when removing all that weight from the rear.
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57 pounds without the rear deck installed. The rear deck probably adds another 20-30 pounds. You wouldn't think so, but that little piece of metal adds some weight
EDIT: The hatch glass also adds structural integrity to the car, so I wouldn't do the lexan thing unless you have SFC's installed.
Also, if it's a race only type thing, you could use light metal structuring, and lay a fiberglass shell over it, and then put that in place of the rear deck. That should be good for another 15 pounds shaved off.
EDIT: The hatch glass also adds structural integrity to the car, so I wouldn't do the lexan thing unless you have SFC's installed.
Also, if it's a race only type thing, you could use light metal structuring, and lay a fiberglass shell over it, and then put that in place of the rear deck. That should be good for another 15 pounds shaved off.
Last edited by onebinky; 12-16-2003 at 02:03 AM.
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Yeah sorry about not updating the thread earlier (in the middle of moving, no internet access). Here is the reply from Percy's when asked about a pre-cut full kit for 82-92 Camaro's:
Shawn,
Thank you for your interest in our products. Probably most horror stories you heard about lexan is that it scratches easily and you can not get it near chemicals. Our product was developed just for that reason. We actually contract to GE (the makers of Lexan) because we have developed a product that is highly chemical and scratch resistant wile keeping very high optics. We defiantly suggest that all windows be fastened in with nuts and bolts although there are allot of people using factory install methods. We can save you about 70% of your factory glass weight. We do not recommend our install kit for Camaros because of the thickness of your window frame. Our bolts are not long enough. Please contact me if you have any other questions.
Percy's High Performance
So for our cars they say you will drop 70% of the glass weight (windshield, side windows, rear hatch). I dont know how much all these stock pieces weigh, so not sure on the definate weight savings. But I am pretty happy that he says other users installed them with factory methods which makes the install look alot cleaner (good for a race car that see's the street sometimes!). The only question he didnt answer was if they would work with power windows, most likely because I told him I plan to gut my doors.
Jegs price is $700 for the complete pre-cut kit. When I am finished modding my chassis I am seriously thinking about getting this kit. But I'll want to weigh my car first ...
Shawn,
Thank you for your interest in our products. Probably most horror stories you heard about lexan is that it scratches easily and you can not get it near chemicals. Our product was developed just for that reason. We actually contract to GE (the makers of Lexan) because we have developed a product that is highly chemical and scratch resistant wile keeping very high optics. We defiantly suggest that all windows be fastened in with nuts and bolts although there are allot of people using factory install methods. We can save you about 70% of your factory glass weight. We do not recommend our install kit for Camaros because of the thickness of your window frame. Our bolts are not long enough. Please contact me if you have any other questions.
Percy's High Performance
So for our cars they say you will drop 70% of the glass weight (windshield, side windows, rear hatch). I dont know how much all these stock pieces weigh, so not sure on the definate weight savings. But I am pretty happy that he says other users installed them with factory methods which makes the install look alot cleaner (good for a race car that see's the street sometimes!). The only question he didnt answer was if they would work with power windows, most likely because I told him I plan to gut my doors.
Jegs price is $700 for the complete pre-cut kit. When I am finished modding my chassis I am seriously thinking about getting this kit. But I'll want to weigh my car first ...
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Here's a pic of a 3rd gen (and owner I'm assuming) that installed the Speed Glass using the factory install methods. Notice the clean install that looks completely stock!!
Click Here
Click Here
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
Engine: 305ci, 5.0L, TPI, HO
Transmission: Borg Warner T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt Positraction Rear w/3.45 Grs
Make sure you have plenty of suspension upgrades before making your rear lighter. I can feel the difference between my 88 GTA Notchback and my wife's 91 Bird. I can spin the tires all day, so I'm working on my suspension right now.
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
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where's blue502 i belive he's done this along with a speedglass windshield on his car
if it wasn't him it was a car very similar to his
if it wasn't him it was a car very similar to his
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Car: '81 Trans Am
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Transmission: auto 350
Originally posted by onebinky
EDIT: The hatch glass also adds structural integrity to the car, so I wouldn't do the lexan thing unless you have STB's installed.
EDIT: The hatch glass also adds structural integrity to the car, so I wouldn't do the lexan thing unless you have STB's installed.
second a stb will only tie the 2 strut towers together in the front of the car...not affecting the rear in any way. Plus unless we had indpedent rear suspesion then a rear stb would be a good idea...but in our cars its very unnessesary.
and to everyone else who is resurching the lexan hatch and windshield i found one guy here that has done it,,,he also was able to fad up a glass deck lid on his hatch........he shows good pics and stuff too
http://members.cardomain.com/u8win_n
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Car: 1990 Trans Am
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where or how did he get lexan in the shape of the hatch glass? He only talks about trimming and installing it.
#19
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Thanks for the update Shawn I'm interested on what the difference on handling would be with the reduced weight on the back.
I'm guessing that the cardomain site install required trimming as he didn't get the pre-cut window.
Robert
I'm guessing that the cardomain site install required trimming as he didn't get the pre-cut window.
Robert
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Car: '81 Trans Am
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Transmission: auto 350
Originally posted by 300hpse
where or how did he get lexan in the shape of the hatch glass? He only talks about trimming and installing it.
where or how did he get lexan in the shape of the hatch glass? He only talks about trimming and installing it.
"I ACTUALLY PURCHASED A PRE-MOLDED HARWOOD LEXAN HATCH DESIGNED FOR THIRD GEN DRAG CARS BUT OVER-SIZED AND USUALLY INSTALLED BY JUST SCREWING IT TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE HATCH AREA ( i.e. IT DOESN'T OPERATE NOR DOES IT LOOK LIKE A NORMAL HATCH ) WELL...THAT LOOK WOULDN'T WORK ON A CAR LIKE MINE, SOOOO I MEASURED OUT THE DIMENSIONS OF MY ORIGINAL GLASS HATCH AND SABRE SAWED THE LEXAN HATCH TO SIZE. LONG STORY SHORT...IT LOOKS AND OPERATES JUST LIKE A STOCK GLASS HATCH BUT WEIGHS ONLY 20 LBS!!!"
sorry bout the caps guys like i said it was copy and pasted from his page.
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Originally posted by jcurrieirocz
I dont delive this statement is tru at all.....1st the hatch has only 3 mounting points the latch the 2 hinges...there is about 1 1/2 of slop at the latch back and forth so in no way i belive that the hatch can add any real structual integrity at all!
second a stb will only tie the 2 strut towers together in the front of the car...not affecting the rear in any way. Plus unless we had indpedent rear suspesion then a rear stb would be a good idea...but in our cars its very unnessesary.
and to everyone else who is resurching the lexan hatch and windshield i found one guy here that has done it,,,he also was able to fad up a glass deck lid on his hatch........he shows good pics and stuff too
http://members.cardomain.com/u8win_n
I dont delive this statement is tru at all.....1st the hatch has only 3 mounting points the latch the 2 hinges...there is about 1 1/2 of slop at the latch back and forth so in no way i belive that the hatch can add any real structual integrity at all!
second a stb will only tie the 2 strut towers together in the front of the car...not affecting the rear in any way. Plus unless we had indpedent rear suspesion then a rear stb would be a good idea...but in our cars its very unnessesary.
and to everyone else who is resurching the lexan hatch and windshield i found one guy here that has done it,,,he also was able to fad up a glass deck lid on his hatch........he shows good pics and stuff too
http://members.cardomain.com/u8win_n
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Car: '81 Trans Am
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Originally posted by onebinky
sorry, meant subframe connectors (sfc's), not stb (strut tower brace) My bad
sorry, meant subframe connectors (sfc's), not stb (strut tower brace) My bad
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it adds about as much support as the hood does... inotherwords, none.
oh and for the "cant hook for the loss of wieght comment" thats pretty damn stupid.
first off, i hook fine, and i have a convertible.
2nd, same thing for the notchback cars.
3rd, loosing weight is good... you shouldnt be adding weight to the car to get it too hook... unless you're on snow or somthing... but thats just fuggin stupid. obviously, a car that you're trying to loose weight on shouldnt be driven in the snow.
its a big heavy piece of glass loosly attached to the rear of the car. its not like hes removing anything structural or needed....
oh and for the "cant hook for the loss of wieght comment" thats pretty damn stupid.
first off, i hook fine, and i have a convertible.
2nd, same thing for the notchback cars.
3rd, loosing weight is good... you shouldnt be adding weight to the car to get it too hook... unless you're on snow or somthing... but thats just fuggin stupid. obviously, a car that you're trying to loose weight on shouldnt be driven in the snow.
its a big heavy piece of glass loosly attached to the rear of the car. its not like hes removing anything structural or needed....
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
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Summit has it too in there new magizine in the "new products" section
Rear window
Windshields and windshield/Window kit
Speedglass Windshield/Window kit
Standard Uncoated Lexan complete kit
Rear window
Windshields and windshield/Window kit
Speedglass Windshield/Window kit
Standard Uncoated Lexan complete kit
#25
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Originally posted by MrDude_1
it adds about as much support as the hood does... inotherwords, none.
oh and for the "cant hook for the loss of wieght comment" thats pretty damn stupid.
first off, i hook fine, and i have a convertible.
2nd, same thing for the notchback cars.
3rd, loosing weight is good... you shouldnt be adding weight to the car to get it too hook... unless you're on snow or somthing... but thats just fuggin stupid. obviously, a car that you're trying to loose weight on shouldnt be driven in the snow.
its a big heavy piece of glass loosly attached to the rear of the car. its not like hes removing anything structural or needed....
it adds about as much support as the hood does... inotherwords, none.
oh and for the "cant hook for the loss of wieght comment" thats pretty damn stupid.
first off, i hook fine, and i have a convertible.
2nd, same thing for the notchback cars.
3rd, loosing weight is good... you shouldnt be adding weight to the car to get it too hook... unless you're on snow or somthing... but thats just fuggin stupid. obviously, a car that you're trying to loose weight on shouldnt be driven in the snow.
its a big heavy piece of glass loosly attached to the rear of the car. its not like hes removing anything structural or needed....
#1, What does that vert weigh on just the rear axle? I bet it's everybit as heavy if not heavier than a hard top car. Plus you have an LO3, weight has no effect on your ability to hook, it's a lack of power.
#2, Whats one of those notchback hatches weigh? I bet they're not light.
#3, If you remove alot of weight from the rear of the car it will have less traction. You will not be able to get very good weight transfer if the *** end is light and the nose is still heavy.
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
Engine: 305ci, 5.0L, TPI, HO
Transmission: Borg Warner T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt Positraction Rear w/3.45 Grs
Originally posted by rjmcgee
#1, What does that vert weigh on just the rear axle? I bet it's everybit as heavy if not heavier than a hard top car. Plus you have an LO3, weight has no effect on your ability to hook, it's a lack of power.
#2, Whats one of those notchback hatches weigh? I bet they're not light.
#3, If you remove alot of weight from the rear of the car it will have less traction. You will not be able to get very good weight transfer if the *** end is light and the nose is still heavy.
#1, What does that vert weigh on just the rear axle? I bet it's everybit as heavy if not heavier than a hard top car. Plus you have an LO3, weight has no effect on your ability to hook, it's a lack of power.
#2, Whats one of those notchback hatches weigh? I bet they're not light.
#3, If you remove alot of weight from the rear of the car it will have less traction. You will not be able to get very good weight transfer if the *** end is light and the nose is still heavy.
#27
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Originally posted by GTA4ME
By the way, the notchback is atleast 50% lighter than the stock glass hatch.
By the way, the notchback is atleast 50% lighter than the stock glass hatch.
How would one of those things look on a Camaro?
#28
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
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Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt Positraction Rear w/3.45 Grs
I don't know, but it looks sweeeeeeeet on my car!!!
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Well I dont care about off the line traction. You drag racing guys gotta worry about that, not me hehehe. I'm building my car for roadracing and drifting. I'm aiming for an even 50/50 weight distribution (50/50 corner weight too) and a sub 3000 pound total weight with 50% fuel (but not driver). A guy down at the track has the corner weight weighing machine setup that I can use for $10 to help me dial this in. The notchback is another good weight saving alternative, but I think they are quite expensive (Hawks price is $649.00, but you might be able to find one cheaper used off ebay, not sure). For $50 more than the cost of a new notchback, you could convert all your windows to Speed Glass. For the strength thing, it would depend on the state of the chassis. If the car was stock with not even SFC's then maybe it might make a small difference, but nothing that would cause the car to become unstable. A a car that is modified enough to justify the cost of replacing all the windows for weight savings probably has a rollcage. In this case the strength of the chassis is tied into the rollcage, not the unibody. This would apply for both roadrace and drag cars.
Last edited by CrazyHawaiian; 12-20-2003 at 05:00 AM.
#30
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If you are going for a 50/50 weight distribution then do not remove the glass hatch. Thirdgen's are already nose heavy and you don't wanna take weight off the rear. Concentrate more on the front of the car.
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
Engine: 305ci, 5.0L, TPI, HO
Transmission: Borg Warner T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt Positraction Rear w/3.45 Grs
Look at the sticker on the inside of your driver's side door.
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Car: too many ...
I haven't put my car on the scale yet, so I dont know for sure, but I think the weight distribution is around 58/42. A light weight hatch is definately not the first mod I plan to do. I will start at the front of my car and work back, weighing it on the scale after making big changes. But I have a feeling that in order for me to reach my overall weight goal, the hatch glass will need to be replaced with something lighter. It will all depend on how much weight I can drop from the front. Keep in mind now, this is a track only car that doesn't have any windows, no interior, not even a regular front clip (dirt track front end).
#34
My 88 Formula 5.0 weighed 1600# rear and 2000# front (both weights taken with 210# driver (not me) and 1/3rd tank of gas). I noticed the smog check station had a scale built into the dyno, so I asked if we could get the front and rear weight readings. Their equipment wasn't very accurate, it would jump 5# easily at rest.
A GTA notchback isn't light. It weighs 88 lbs.
Lon
A GTA notchback isn't light. It weighs 88 lbs.
Lon
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Car: 1985 Camaro, 1986 Trans Am
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Originally posted by badandy247
where's blue502 i belive he's done this along with a speedglass windshield on his car
if it wasn't him it was a car very similar to his
where's blue502 i belive he's done this along with a speedglass windshield on his car
if it wasn't him it was a car very similar to his
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
This is the blue car with LEXAN windows
http://www.cardomain.com/id/u8win_n link was posted above also.
Im thinking of doing the PERCY Speed Glass setup when I et back from FL. myself. Lighter is better in any situation. If you have the right Suspention setup it shouldnt matter.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/u8win_n link was posted above also.
Im thinking of doing the PERCY Speed Glass setup when I et back from FL. myself. Lighter is better in any situation. If you have the right Suspention setup it shouldnt matter.
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