omcrider

Just changed my drivers side headlight motor this weekend. Was an easy swap. The only trouble was the rear bolt to the motor was a struggle at 1/8 turn at a time with an open ended wrench fishing it out of my undercarriage from dropping it numerous times. It seems to me if the factory would have used regular nuts there instead of speed clips you could get to the backside of those nuts real easy once headlight assembly is out. It looks like my right side will need to be done eventually. Has anyone tried those rebuild kits like the one from TDS? I am going to open up my old motor thats out now and see what it looks like inside. I was thinking of just rebuilding my other one instead of replacing.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I've fixed that by turning the headlight gear 180* from the position it is in now. GM just had to use NYLON gears anywhere they could in the F-body, didn't they? Anyways, it's cheaper to do that way and the motor only uses something like a third of the gear or something to raise and lower the headlight. BTW, I saw somewhere that someone sells replacement gears that are brass instead of the stock nylon.

Oh, and it's a whole heck of a lot easier to take two to three minutes and remove the headlights from the frame.

BretD 88GTA

The headlight gears themselves typically don't wear out. It's the gel inserts that make the gear engage the drive shaft that disintegrate and allow the gear to slip.

TDS sells replacement gel inserts made of Delron for around $5 a side. It's a fairly simple fix to repair the headlights and they'll work like brand new.

Another option is to do as I did and buy the bronze gears from Eckler's or Corvette Central. This option will run you $60 a side, but the darn things should never need to be touched again.

omcrider

Hey Maverick I did take the entire headlight assembly out. That rear (PIA) bolt is on the left side of the motor the headlight assembly removal did not make that easier. Although I could have removed the speed clips and replaced them with standard nuts because they are on the assembly side. You really need to remove the headlight to get to the actuator arm nut. I think I am going to try the rebuild kit from Lon at TDS and rebuild the passenger side motor. I have also seen those brass ones I think on Ebay for $35 a side. Still to much If the plastic ones last 15 years that works for me for a tenth the cost. Interesting the mention on turning the gear 180 I will have to look at that when I open up the extra motor I now have out of the car. If it was that simple why didn't they do it in the first place? Has to be a down side.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I've used the TDS headlight rebuild kit before. Pretty good kit... they only thing I noticed was they didn't provide me with 2 sets of gaskets and screws (in case I have ot rebuild each motor). They did provide the rest of the stuff though. Pretty straight foreward just follow the instructions included and you should be good to go... also don't freak out if the screws snap off on the motor housing (happens just drill them out) they directions provide info if that happens also.

The new TDS pegs are a lot better quality than the OEM ones there made from the same nylon that TDS makes their hatch motor guides from (like 5 year warranty on breakage on them). Pretty strudy stuff.

omcrider

Hey FIRETURD I noticed TDS web sight has a complete kit that comes with extra screws and gaskets and one that just has the bushings. So they do offer both. I heard those screws break off pretty easy, maybe I will buy the big kit for both motors. Glad to hear they work well. Its a simple and cheap enough fix everyone should do it. Nothing looks worse than firebirds with busted eyes either won't come up or don't go down, I see so many with this problem.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yep, I got the Deluxe kit... that has everything... The only thing you don't get in there is another worm drive gasket (only get 1). You also only get 2 screws and nuts (you need 4 incase both of the headlights break, 2 on each).

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

paint the screws while the motor is outside the car and it will look stock again.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Don't know of that down side yet... my headlights are on a shelf in the garage right now and the car ain't moving (dead alternator).

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Just a FYI to all of you regarding the 209280 Deluxe Headlight Repair Kit. It is a very common misconception that you'll need two motor housing gaskets when you repair a pair of headlight actuation units. But in fact you only need one. Allow me to explain. As I state in my instructions, a pair of headlight actuation units consists of one Type I unit and one Type II unit. Type I units have the actuator shaft sticking through the side cover. Type II units have no hole in the center of the side cover. The actuator shaft sticks out through the body of the unit. You have to remove the motor housing to remove the large nylon gear ONLY for the Type I actuators. You can slip the large nylon gear out of the body of the Type II actuators without having to remove the motor housing. It is a little bit of a pain to get the brushes retracted and seated onto the commutator again (a little less of a pain if you make the paperclip tool I show in the instructions). So given this, why would you want to remove the motor housing needlessly? I know some customers refuse to read the instructions and will plunge ahead and remove the motor housing from both headlight actuation units. Not a problem. I sell the motor gaskets separately for those that feel they need another one.
Regarding the material used for the bushings in the kits: The material is Delrin®, which is Dupont's registered name for acetal resin. I use Nylon for the aftermarket nylon guides.
If you are in a hurry to get a repair kit, I'd suggest buying it early Wednesday. I'm headed out of town Wednesday afternoon to attend the SEMA show in Las Vegas. I'll be returning Friday.

Thanks,

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions (aka TDS)

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

i do this fix all the time for folks and i use 15/32 bearings which are almost EXACTLY the same size as the plastic nylon cylindres that crumble. these bearings ca be had at a local bearing supply.
as for turning the gear there is no need as the gear will go the full leingth so thats no good.
when i do my fix i dont even look at pulling the armature cap. the dr side pops right out and slides right in, the pass side i put the lift shaft nut back on, grab a rag for grip and wiggle. and for puting it in i turn the worm gear shaft a tad and it slips right back i and no damage occurs.as fo the gaskets, yea thats one thing i WOULD buy as they do get frail.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Do a search on this site and you'll see my explanation why a ball bearing isn't recomended by me. A few cents saved now will be spent later when the inside of the nylon gear has become distorted due to the point contact and higher force put on a MUCH smaller area compared to the bushing.

Lon

BretD 88GTA

I'll second this. Any extra force put on the gear will make it distort and cause the motor to jam. I know this first hand. Use the TDS bushings.

omcrider

Thanks for all the Info, Lon I will be ordering a set from you but I am in no major rush, I just replaced one motor entierly and the other side (passenger) isn't in desperate shape yet so I will buy a kit to have on hand for when it is needed, you can ship my wonder bar before you go though!

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

lol I always appreciate the humor of my customers.

Thanks, Lon

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Ahh thanks... I saw the type 1 and 2 parts but I guess I didn't read it clearly enough. I just check'd to see which one I had on that side and then follow'd the directions. Since the other side hadn't stopped working yet I didn't even look at it. Might be a good idea to put the directions in a zip lock baggy... kind of hard to read once you get all the white grease smear'd over. (That's what I get for leaving them next to the motor when pulling stuff apart and reassembling. )

As for the paper clip thing that's what I did. Helps if you get an helper also. Hard to hold the paper clips back and slide the worm drive in at the same time with only 2 hands.