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door stuck shut?

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Old 10-26-2003, 01:38 AM
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Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
door stuck shut?

well, it's not stuck shut now, but it is getting worse and worse. I pull on the handle (inside or out, doesn't matter), and I pull (or push from the inside) and I have to pull/push pretty hard to open the door. it almost feels like I have to lift the door over a bump or something.

Is this door sag? I did a search and found alot of people complaining about a door not shutting, or not matching the body panels when it is shut, but mine matches up pretty good.

As far as I know, it's just on the driver side (the passenger side doesn't get used much, so I'm not sure).

Any ideas? is this door sag? I first noticed it about a week ago, and it's slowly getting worse. tonight, I had to push really hard on the door to get it to open. I feel like the next time I try to open it, I won't beable to.

(edit) oh yea, and the handle on the inside looks like it's halfway pulled out, it doesn't close back down flush with the door. could this possibly be a bent push/pull rod or something inside the door? I can't tell, but I don't think the outside handle sticks out any further than normal.

Thanks!

Last edited by Error404; 10-26-2003 at 01:41 AM.
Old 10-26-2003, 01:11 AM
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Car: '86 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi disc 9 bolt
Definately check the rods for alignment it may have slipped out of the plastic rod snap holder.
Old 10-26-2003, 10:36 AM
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
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i have this problem too but i found the solution.what happens is when you unlokc the door with the key you dont turn the key back to the normal position so it stays partially locked still, to therefor when you open it fromthe inside or outside it makes it seem like it wont open. Just make sure that you turn the key all the way back to the neutral position.
Old 10-26-2003, 10:38 AM
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if what kidrcth said isnt it, open the door and lift up on the edge... it shouldnt move, but if it does, the door is sagging...


also, look for scrape marks in the lower doorjam on top of the GFX....
Old 10-26-2003, 11:04 AM
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Sounds like the bushings are worn out.
Old 10-26-2003, 11:07 AM
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nah i just need tobuy new lock cylenders
Old 10-26-2003, 05:10 PM
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I havn't locked the door with a key in 3 or 4 months, I have an alarm/lock/kill.

I'll check the door to see if it sags.

I did push in on the handle (the inside handle) and the door opened easier, so I assume it's on of the rods on the inside.

I"ll check the door for sag, then take out the door panels (need new ones anyway) and compare both sides
Old 10-26-2003, 05:41 PM
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Try lubing your lock mechanism that contacts with the stricker rod and bushings. That might help out some if your bushings are wearing out.
Old 10-26-2003, 06:00 PM
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what exactly are the "stricker rod and bushings" and what should I use to lube them? something think likw WD40, or something thicker?
Old 10-26-2003, 06:29 PM
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I use white lithium lube grease. I've heard that WD40 is not good to use on bushings and automotive applications.
The striker rod is the rod that your door locks itself onto when the door is shut. That one bar that sticks out from the rear quarter panel.
And the bushings are the parts in the door hinge.
Old 10-26-2003, 09:19 PM
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ahh, yes. those are the parts that I think are keeping the door from opening smoothly. though, I still feel like it's a rod inside, because the door closes with no problem. it's just opening the door where the problem happens

I'll have some time early this week to have a look at it.

thanks yall! much appreciated!
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