Paint and Reducer ratio?
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Paint and Reducer ratio?
I'm getting reddy to paint my 91 rs back to it's original color (WA-L9540) Metalic maroon (red). I got the paint and reducer. I just want to know what is the ratio of the two. Like how much reducer should i put per pint or quart of paint? And when do I use the clear coat? should I wait a couple of days to dry the paint then spray the clear coat?
thanks
thanks
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
It depends on what brand of paint that you are using. I used PPG and for the color it was reduced 2:1 (I think) wait about 30 minutes then spray the clear I'm positive the ratio for that was 4:1:1 4 parts clear 1 part reducer 1 part hardner.
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Car: 89 RS 355/ 89 IROC Convert
Engine: Hot Cam 355/TPI 305
Transmission: All 700r4's
What paint are you using and I will find out the info you need, also is it single stage or BC/CC
Brian
Brian
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Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
You MUST read the tech sheets. EVERY PAINT IS DIFFERENT!!!
Some require more reducer, some require less. Some you must wait longer in between coats and some you don't. Its all in the tech sheets. The supplier you bought the pain from should be able to give you these.
Some require more reducer, some require less. Some you must wait longer in between coats and some you don't. Its all in the tech sheets. The supplier you bought the pain from should be able to give you these.
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Thanks for the info guys I went ahead and did a 1 to 1 ratio on the paint and the reducer. My problem now is that it has alot of sand grain paint. Not sure what you call it but it looks more like those airborne paint and some layers are brighter than the other or more even than the other. What can I do to make the surface more even before I spray on the clear coat? Thanks..
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Originally posted by RS91
Thanks for the info guys I went ahead and did a 1 to 1 ratio on the paint and the reducer. My problem now is that it has alot of sand grain paint. Not sure what you call it but it looks more like those airborne paint and some layers are brighter than the other or more even than the other. What can I do to make the surface more even before I spray on the clear coat? Thanks..
Thanks for the info guys I went ahead and did a 1 to 1 ratio on the paint and the reducer. My problem now is that it has alot of sand grain paint. Not sure what you call it but it looks more like those airborne paint and some layers are brighter than the other or more even than the other. What can I do to make the surface more even before I spray on the clear coat? Thanks..
Practice with a spare body panel first.
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The Gun is set up to wide pattern... The Gun I have is HVLP (borrowed). How do properly adjust the two *****. What is the upper **** for and the lower ****. I just keep adjusting both till I got the wide pattern... Thanks...
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Wide pattern? For most of your painting, you want the spray pattern to be vertical, about 6-8" tall, and fairly narrow. If its "wide", then you need to rotate the tip 90°.
As far as adjustments, there are two *****. Both of my guns have one **** on the back and one on the side. The one on the back is the fluid and the one on the side is the fan control. If both of yours are on the back, then turn the one and see if the pattern changes or not. If it does, its the fan control. Turn it all the way down so that the pattern is a small circle. Now turn the other **** (fluid) untill the paint comes out pretty good (it should look wet when sprayed, not like sandpaper like you were having). I usually start off with my fluid **** 3 full turns out, but yours will probably vary. Once the fluid is good, then start turning the fan control, adjusting it so that the pattern is about 6-8" tall and maybe 2" wide.
After the pattern is right, you may need to do some final tweaking on the fluid ****, depending on how fast you move when you spray.
Also make sure the guts of the gun are 100% CLEAN. Most gun problems are from being dirty.
As far as adjustments, there are two *****. Both of my guns have one **** on the back and one on the side. The one on the back is the fluid and the one on the side is the fan control. If both of yours are on the back, then turn the one and see if the pattern changes or not. If it does, its the fan control. Turn it all the way down so that the pattern is a small circle. Now turn the other **** (fluid) untill the paint comes out pretty good (it should look wet when sprayed, not like sandpaper like you were having). I usually start off with my fluid **** 3 full turns out, but yours will probably vary. Once the fluid is good, then start turning the fan control, adjusting it so that the pattern is about 6-8" tall and maybe 2" wide.
After the pattern is right, you may need to do some final tweaking on the fluid ****, depending on how fast you move when you spray.
Also make sure the guts of the gun are 100% CLEAN. Most gun problems are from being dirty.
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I will try this out this coming Saturday... One more question do you think it's okay for me to sand the paint with 1200 grit to remove the overspray? again thanks...
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by RS91
I will try this out this coming Saturday... One more question do you think it's okay for me to sand the paint with 1200 grit to remove the overspray? again thanks...
I will try this out this coming Saturday... One more question do you think it's okay for me to sand the paint with 1200 grit to remove the overspray? again thanks...
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Car: Take
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If your wetsanding a surface that will not be further painted, make sure you have the proper equipment to buff back the glossy finish.
If you are unsure about how to "wetsand" and "buff" (AKA Paint Finessing), here is a quick how to: Paint Finessing
If you are unsure about how to "wetsand" and "buff" (AKA Paint Finessing), here is a quick how to: Paint Finessing
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