shaved door handle kits
#1
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
shaved door handle kits
im looking for a good shaved door handle kit. i've been looking around a little, but i dont know exactly what to get...like for instance, what amperage selenoids to get or how many punds they can push. i also would like some window open/close capabilities and/or and alarm. i dont wanna spend more than $350...what do you guys suggest?
ive found a few that i like:
the commander 9000 (here) and the AutoLoc SVPRO3A (here)
anyone have those?
ive found a few that i like:
the commander 9000 (here) and the AutoLoc SVPRO3A (here)
anyone have those?
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
The deluxe kit from VPA (Summit sells it) has a 10 ifunction remote that can be wired into other accessories. Its under $200 (the poppers are seperate, but the total is still under $200). My popper kit is VPA, and the solenoids are of adequate strength (been installed for 4 years). LT1guy is installing the 10 function kit on his (the handles are shaved, but still doing bodywork), but its not wired yet. He'll post more details when its finished.
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Car: 91 Maro & 97 Ram & 05 Roadstar
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Use the search button.
Butr anyways 40-50# poppers are very effective. You can get smaller ones but with age, weather, temp., ect. I would imigaine that the 50# poppers would last longer. But thats my .02, I not a expert.
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#4
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I used the kit from autoloc. It's been on the car for 4 years and no troubles. The kit is around $300.00. Here is the link: http://autoloc.com/detail.lasso?itemid=SVPRO5
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Car: See pic above
Engine: Too Small
Transmission: Broken
You don't need to pay $300 for a kit. If you already have an alarm, you can just use the extra channels for that, and just get the solenoids and relays. I honestly don't believe that the size of the solenoid has anything to do with how long it will last. It's not that the components inside it are any different, it's just that the 50 is bigger than the 35 which is bigger than the 25. It's just a selling/marketing thing. If you think about it, does it take 50 lbs. of force to lift up on the door handle to open it? Nope, but that's all the solenoid is actually doing. And keep this in mind, the bigger the solenoid, the louder it will be. I have the 50 lb ones in my car and when the doors open, there's a big thud. If that's what you want, then go with the bigger ones. But ultimately, I would worry more about the remote failing or the relays.
Some people have also used actuators instead of soleniods. They just got ones from a junkyard car (used for power door locks) and connected it instead. The wiring is a little more complicated, but it's cheaper than a shaved door handle kit.
Also, unless they've changed the autoloc kit since I got it, you have to crimp the cable that attaches to the latch, which is a major PITA in terms of installation. The VPA kits install differently, so you may want to look at those.
Some people have also used actuators instead of soleniods. They just got ones from a junkyard car (used for power door locks) and connected it instead. The wiring is a little more complicated, but it's cheaper than a shaved door handle kit.
Also, unless they've changed the autoloc kit since I got it, you have to crimp the cable that attaches to the latch, which is a major PITA in terms of installation. The VPA kits install differently, so you may want to look at those.
#6
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Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
so once you install the kit and you hit the button, the selenoid unlatches the door...then does something else push the door open a little or what? how do you actually get in the car?
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Car: See pic above
Engine: Too Small
Transmission: Broken
You can add a door popper, which will push the door open a few inches. I've also seen people just use a spring mounted to the door or door frame, if you don't want to door to pop as far.
The popper on my door is circled.
The popper on my door is circled.
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#8
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Car: '92 Camaro RS, '93 Ranger
Engine: LO3, Vulcan
Transmission: 700R4, M5OD
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.45
This is somewhat off topic, but what do you do about the space that was once occupied by the door handle? Is there a plastic piece that fitrs in (good enough for me) or is it filled in with some kind of compound?
#9
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Car: See pic above
Engine: Too Small
Transmission: Broken
Go here to see it done to my car:
http://www.devilzkuztumz.com/jeremy%20camaro.htm
You need to weld a metal plate in the space, any other sort of filler is going to be prone to cracking.
http://www.devilzkuztumz.com/jeremy%20camaro.htm
You need to weld a metal plate in the space, any other sort of filler is going to be prone to cracking.
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Car: See pic above
Engine: Too Small
Transmission: Broken
Those are some awsome pages redraif. Without your help, and that of Lt1 guy and scauffield, I couldn't have done it to my car.
Just wanted to note that the links you posted are to the same page. Here's the proper one for shaving.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...191601&page=37
I always felt funny having a page on my website called "shaving", I don't know why
Just wanted to note that the links you posted are to the same page. Here's the proper one for shaving.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...191601&page=37
I always felt funny having a page on my website called "shaving", I don't know why
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#12
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Yeah i guess Shaving does sound funny! Thanks for the link correction. Bad Brain day I guess. I guess I forgot to copy the other link before I hit paste the second time. Oh well! I hope the links help everyone else. Glad we could help you out!
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 350 Crate
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I also installed solenoids and door poppers. Redraif gave me advice too.
I went with Spal solenoids. They are 30 lbs and are LOUD and pull so hard on the rods, that my outer door handles are shaking a little loose (my handles are not shaved). You might be able to go with lighter ones, not sure on longevity though. I used steel cable and hardware from Home Depot to attach them as the hardware I got with the poppers was sub-par (I've heard the same about Autoloc hardware too) I looked at the Autoloc stuff, but it seemed too expensive.
I have Dakota Digital poppers and they open the door about 6 inches with the windows down, more with them up! Just installed them this weekend.
They are just actuated with a switch for now, but I will buy a multifunction alarm in the future and tie them into there.
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I went with Spal solenoids. They are 30 lbs and are LOUD and pull so hard on the rods, that my outer door handles are shaking a little loose (my handles are not shaved). You might be able to go with lighter ones, not sure on longevity though. I used steel cable and hardware from Home Depot to attach them as the hardware I got with the poppers was sub-par (I've heard the same about Autoloc hardware too) I looked at the Autoloc stuff, but it seemed too expensive.
I have Dakota Digital poppers and they open the door about 6 inches with the windows down, more with them up! Just installed them this weekend.
They are just actuated with a switch for now, but I will buy a multifunction alarm in the future and tie them into there.
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Car: '92 Camaro RS, '93 Ranger
Engine: LO3, Vulcan
Transmission: 700R4, M5OD
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.45
Just wondering, but wouldn't it be fairly esy to use extra security system channels and soem solvent safe industrial solenoids? The prices on those kitted solenoids is crazy.... I kinda think 50 lbs is a bit excessive too, but then again the last thing you want to happen is have the door stick
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Car: See pic above
Engine: Too Small
Transmission: Broken
Originally posted by kanuck
I also installed solenoids and door poppers. Redraif gave me advice too.
I also installed solenoids and door poppers. Redraif gave me advice too.
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I really wasn't happy with the autoloc setup, because it wasn't adjustable and they didn't give you extra crimps for the wire that connects to the latch. So I had to go out and buy more of them. And then, if they're not crimped really hard, they start to let the cable slip, and then it doesn't pull far enough to open the door.
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Car: See pic above
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Transmission: Broken
Originally posted by MechCD
Just wondering, but wouldn't it be fairly esy to use extra security system channels and soem solvent safe industrial solenoids? The prices on those kitted solenoids is crazy.... I kinda think 50 lbs is a bit excessive too, but then again the last thing you want to happen is have the door stick
Just wondering, but wouldn't it be fairly esy to use extra security system channels and soem solvent safe industrial solenoids? The prices on those kitted solenoids is crazy.... I kinda think 50 lbs is a bit excessive too, but then again the last thing you want to happen is have the door stick
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