Door striker
#2
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Location: Tampa, Florida
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Car: 88 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355ci
Transmission: WC-T5
Its your Door hinges.. one way to check if there bad, is to open the door all the way and pick up on it.. if the hinges are bad, you will feel the door move up and down. if not, then i dont know what to tell ya
im pretty sure its the hinges though.
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#3
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Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
actually, open the door about 10-12 inches, then pick up on the back, I'm sure your door will move close to 1 inch
#4
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Car: Malibu 80, T/A 87, S-15 87
Engine: 267 Bu, 305 T/A, 350 S-15
Transmission: Auto Bu, 5spd T/A, Auto S-15
noisy doors
well, my car does make noise on bumps also and it's the window when they are lowered... silent when shut tight.
you can try putting cloths between the door and the "frame part" of the car where the door rest... it make a pressure and if noise go away, you found the problem... or maybe you can see a spot where the paint has come off from friction.
you can try putting cloths between the door and the "frame part" of the car where the door rest... it make a pressure and if noise go away, you found the problem... or maybe you can see a spot where the paint has come off from friction.
#6
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
It might be frame flex then... in that case, subframe connectors would fix the rattles. How bumpy are these roads? Washboard-style? If they're that bad, find a new way to go to work!
I'm going to have to do that when I rebuild my suspension.. it's gonna add another 10 minutes, but I figure if I can actually wake my butt up 10 minutes earlier, it'll all work out.
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#7
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Car: 85 trans am
Engine: 79 4 bolt 350
Transmission: 700r4
i have the same problem, my drivers side door like bounces on bumpy roads, and i just replaced both hinges. i have alot of creeks and stuff though, im gunna get sub frames sooner or later if i cant figure out where all the creeks and rattles come from. its times like that i just turn up the radio and it all goes away.
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#8
I had the same exact problem last year when I replaced my door before the paint. Hinge pin and bushings were new, and I already have SFC's. I replaced the door latch with a new GM piece and replaced the striker with one I found out of some unknown vehicle (can't remember) at the junkyard. The difference in the striker was a hard plastic collar, allowing less play in the latch when closed. No more rattle!
#9
Originally posted by Marc 85Z28
I had the same exact problem last year when I replaced my door before the paint. Hinge pin and bushings were new, and I already have SFC's. I replaced the door latch with a new GM piece and replaced the striker with one I found out of some unknown vehicle (can't remember) at the junkyard. The difference in the striker was a hard plastic collar, allowing less play in the latch when closed. No more rattle!
I had the same exact problem last year when I replaced my door before the paint. Hinge pin and bushings were new, and I already have SFC's. I replaced the door latch with a new GM piece and replaced the striker with one I found out of some unknown vehicle (can't remember) at the junkyard. The difference in the striker was a hard plastic collar, allowing less play in the latch when closed. No more rattle!
Could you do me a favor and mic the OD of the hard plastic collar? If can't buy it from GM, I'll make it somehow.
thanks,
Jason
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P.S. - You going to the ThirdGen Nationals in Frederick next month?
#10
I'll get back to you on the striker. I'm at work and the car is at home.
As far as nationals, as long as its running yes. I have a set of AFR heads on order, and they should be here in 2-4 weeks. As soon as I get them they go in. I hope these two interests won't conflict
As far as nationals, as long as its running yes. I have a set of AFR heads on order, and they should be here in 2-4 weeks. As soon as I get them they go in. I hope these two interests won't conflict
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