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Rethreading?

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Old 04-22-2003, 05:36 PM
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Rethreading?

ok, well people are always messin with my b&m shifter,which mind u is a POS i shoulda gotten a hurst, ok well now the threads are all striped except the top 3, how would i go about rethreading it, i dont think it would work because then the shift **** wont be threaded the same, or the nut to adjust the tightness....erg, im so mad, someone give me some ideas on fixing it before i get really mad and take it out of my car
Old 04-23-2003, 02:58 PM
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Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe LT
Engine: 357
Transmission: turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi, 3.73 gears
tap it, then use helicoil. or you can probably just buy a new **** somewhere.
Old 04-23-2003, 03:15 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC Z
Engine: 350 TPI L98 block
Transmission: 700R4
I have the same problem, my shifter know spins on its axis. Just go to checker, they sell new ones for under $20.
Old 04-23-2003, 03:20 PM
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my **** isnt stripped, my shifter is stripped, the part u screw the **** onto, i only wish it was just the ****
Old 04-23-2003, 03:43 PM
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Car: 91 Maro & 97 Ram & 05 Roadstar
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Axle/Gears: 2.73
just tap the threads to the threads on the shifter handle. And on you go
Old 04-23-2003, 10:24 PM
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Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe LT
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Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi, 3.73 gears
why do you need to choose a new avatar?
Old 04-23-2003, 10:53 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
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Originally posted by hotrod87camaro
why do you need to choose a new avatar?

that IS an avataar.
Old 04-23-2003, 11:20 PM
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Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by tyty49
just tap the threads to the threads on the shifter handle. And on you go
The problem with that is the threads are mostly gone, a thread tap won't add metal.
Chances are the shift handle is also stripped. Get a new handle. FYI, the hammer handle uses a steel insert threads(and is a much better handle IMO). Then screw it on the shift lever using plenty of HD locktite--you might even try leaving off the locking nut. It might be worth a try. You could, in the process ruin the Hammer handle though. If the shift lever must be replaced you can get a replacement. A quick trip to B&M's website, then to summitracing.com I came up with the part you need.
BMM-80695 Megashifter Short Stick Kit(2 in shorter Stick)
$39.95l

Last edited by 82camaro; 04-24-2003 at 08:07 AM.
Old 04-23-2003, 11:50 PM
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Car: 1985 Camaro, 2015 Audi A4
Engine: V8
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i absolutely despise b&m products, but my megashifter is a pretty well built product, it's the damn shift linkage and bracket and cable that i hate about it...
Old 04-24-2003, 11:53 AM
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i really didnt like my b&m its gave me alot of troubles, thanks 82camaro i needed that info, i guess ill buy the new short stick, wonder if its easier to shift with it being 2" shorter? i definally want a hammer shift ****, i saw yours and like the look of it, but my **** surpisingly isnt stripped, right now i have a thinner nut near the top and is working for now, thanks for the help guys
Old 04-24-2003, 01:57 PM
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Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
You could always drill a small hole in the front of the handle and then put a small screw or bolt in there and tighten it down so it rests firmly against the flat part on the shifter. I'm willing to bet that might work.
Old 04-24-2003, 03:09 PM
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Lock tite.
Old 04-24-2003, 03:15 PM
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Yeah, but lock tite isn't going to help after the threads are already stripped out.
Old 04-24-2003, 03:39 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L V-6
Transmission: Fresh 700R4
you could try the JB Weld trick before you go buying parts after all it's free or at most 5 dollars for the JB Weld

just clean the threads on the stick real good, apply jb weld to the threads, put a little light oil on the threads inside the **** put some JB down in there and thread them toghther leave them together for like 24-30 hours then unthread, you should have new threads that may last a while just don't put the **** back on for a day or two then loctite it on when all done

the secret to this trick is in the timing of the removal of the **** you don't want to let the JB harden too much or take it off too soon there is only like a 4-6 hour window of oppurtunity for it to work well

may wor may not

hope this helps
Andy
Old 04-24-2003, 03:46 PM
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humm, u have a very good idea, but i dont need to take the **** off anyway, so i could just us jb weld, or something not as "permenant" like contact cement to hold it on there, u really helped, thats what im gonna do
Old 04-24-2003, 03:48 PM
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yeah if you don't need it to come off just JB it and it'll stay purdy good

you could always break the **** loose later if need be
Old 04-24-2003, 03:51 PM
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Car: '90 Formula 350
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Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
liquid metal would probably do the same too
Old 04-24-2003, 05:05 PM
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well i went and used the jb weld on it, i figure i can use a pipe wrench to get it off if i ever need to, the stuff also worked good on the 2 inch long air leaki had around my blower motor high air flow now
Old 04-24-2003, 06:23 PM
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well, JB is all that is holding my TV cable in place on my car as well as several other things

the best part of it is you can sand it and paint it and make it look like it's supposed to be there
Old 04-24-2003, 07:09 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC Z
Engine: 350 TPI L98 block
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ontogenesis
i absolutely despise b&m products, but my megashifter is a pretty well built product, it's the damn shift linkage and bracket and cable that i hate about it...

yeah, i've busted it twice myself (the linkage cable)
Old 04-24-2003, 07:36 PM
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i feel dumb to ask this, but what is the shift linkage cable, isnt that the cable that goes from the shifter to the trans? and its red?
Old 04-24-2003, 07:50 PM
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usually red or black yeah i think you got the right one
Old 04-27-2003, 09:11 PM
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Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
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Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
If the handle is steel (i'm assuming it is, but i dunno for sure) try to get your hands on a welder. You can add a metal bead to the inside on the threaded hole, which WILL add metal for you to re-tap.
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