Softer door closing
#1
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Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Softer door closing
Is there anyway possible to make the sound of closing the door quieter with the windows door? Its embarrassing to hear that loud clang.
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Re: Softer door closing
Originally posted by devianb
make the sound of closing the door quieter with the windows door?
make the sound of closing the door quieter with the windows door?
what does that mean!!??!!??
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
You can also buy new window guides from GM. There are two or three of them along the top of your door. They have pads and can be adjusted sungly against the window. If you get them too tight, they can damage the tinting. Their pads seem to wear with time and loosen the window which causes some of the clanging and also wearing of the tint).
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
I imagine that if the doors are sagging, whenever you get your SFC they'd shut nicer too.
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#10
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I wish I could know how these doors sounded when they were NEW, right off the assembly line.
Hey, speaking of SFC's; any worries about welding them in if the doors are sagging? The passenger side door (of course it's never the driver's side) is sagging like hell, and the driver's side is starting to go.
Hey, speaking of SFC's; any worries about welding them in if the doors are sagging? The passenger side door (of course it's never the driver's side) is sagging like hell, and the driver's side is starting to go.
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Tom, if you install the sfc's correctly (IE on a drive-on lift so the chassis is under no torsional load) the SFC's will be of no concern in regards to the sagging doors.
I have wondered that for years and would give money to go back in time to find out many things about the strange characteristics of these cars.
If you end up repairing those doors, which is smart to do before you ending up tearing up paint and the door striker, I found the kit at http://www.3rdgensolutions.com/ worked EXCELLENT. I fixed the '86 with this kit which included an upper and lower hinge repair kit for ~$75. Each kit does one door. To do the job right, you need this kit. Otherwise the repair involves removing the door hinge that is welded on to the body.
I have wondered that for years and would give money to go back in time to find out many things about the strange characteristics of these cars.
If you end up repairing those doors, which is smart to do before you ending up tearing up paint and the door striker, I found the kit at http://www.3rdgensolutions.com/ worked EXCELLENT. I fixed the '86 with this kit which included an upper and lower hinge repair kit for ~$75. Each kit does one door. To do the job right, you need this kit. Otherwise the repair involves removing the door hinge that is welded on to the body.
Last edited by JMatlock88; 03-27-2003 at 10:21 PM.
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Good point, JM... I forgot the doors only affect the twist of the car. Thanks! I'm actually going to scout after two "new" junkyard doors again; these have rusted out (again, dammit!) at the inside bottom. Now that I know about (and have used) POR-15, when I get this next set, I'm por-15'ing the friggin heck out of the inside bottom of the doors. Good thing I'm painting my car this summer or I'd be really ticked off. Hopefully the hinges will be okay- but if I have to replace them, I'll check out the kit you mentioned. Thanks!!
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
Originally posted by TomP
I wish I could know how these doors sounded when they were NEW, right off the assembly line.
I wish I could know how these doors sounded when they were NEW, right off the assembly line.
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