rear quater panel
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
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From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
rear quater panel
i actually have a question....i was wondering what you guys would suggest on this subject..my third gen camaro has some body work that needs to be done...the rear quater panel is messed up pretty bad...i was wonderin if you guys would suggest putting a new quater pannel on or not...the money issuse is not a concern to me at all...i just wouldn't want to do it if it was to weaken the frame greatly or such...suggestions if you all could would be appriated
#5
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Gaffney, SC (upstate SC)
Car: 88 IROC-Z, 71 SS 454 Chevelle
Engine: 305 TPI, 454
Transmission: 5spd, th400
Replacing a rear 1/4 requires cutting off the old 1/4 and welding a new 1/4 back in. This is done all the time on older cars to repair rust damage. If welded by somebody that knows what they are doing then it will not weaken the frame or body of a car, it could possibly strengthen it. Not to mention that if you use bondo you have a possibility of the filler falling out later.
If you have not tried this I would take it to a body shop and have them do it.
If you have not tried this I would take it to a body shop and have them do it.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
From: South NJ
Car: 1988 Mustang GT
Engine: 302
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian
The rear 1/4 panel commonly refers to the GFX piece. The part of the car you're talking about is technically the 1/4 panel, but people usually think of GFX when they say quarter panel
The rear 1/4 panel commonly refers to the GFX piece. The part of the car you're talking about is technically the 1/4 panel, but people usually think of GFX when they say quarter panel
#7
I have never heard anyone refer to the rear gfx as the rear 1/4 panel. What constitutes the rear 1/4 on a car that doesn't have gfx? Is the lower front gfx valence also called the front fender? The rear 1/4 of a car is referred to as the rear 1/4 panels. GFX are just that.
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#8
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
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From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
thanks for the suggetions guys...i wasn't planning on doing it myself lol..i have NO experiance in welding at all lol...i just heard a rumor that it wouldn't weaken the frame, that's all...once i get the cash, i will be changing the 1/4 pannel thanks =)
#9
My dad has a business restoring old cars we do it all the time. If you know what ur doin its not hard at all but if u dont you could make it look like **** also. Depending on how bad it is messed up you might just need the skin they r alot cheaper. Classic industries sells them. But you would have to cut off the old with a wiz wheel or even better a plasma cutter. Then trim the new 1 to fit and crimp the body for it to lay in flat. I would look into havin some1 do it thats experianced. Cause you also want it welded good and if you dont do it right you can warp it n it will be hell to get it strait.
#10
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 461
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From: chico, cali
Car: 92 camaro Rs
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t-5 WC
cut off the bad section, get a bone yard panel and cut out what you need off that and glue it on with some 3m epoxy thats stronger than welding with a backing plate and your as good as gold.
#12
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 461
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From: chico, cali
Car: 92 camaro Rs
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t-5 WC
Actually Im 100% seriouse Ive seen it done and It looks damn good, takes half the time, and is just as strong. granted it is a little on the ghetto side.
#14
ok...now im just scared...glueing body panels on...i would never do that, the only answer for me and my cars is to cut out damaged section and replace..thats just me though. the main problem i see with glueing panels or sections over is water collecting behind it, water has a way of getting in anywhere, once it does, now you have double the problem...just seems to cause more trouble than its worth.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
From: South NJ
Car: 1988 Mustang GT
Engine: 302
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by ERICCAMARO
Actually Im 100% seriouse Ive seen it done and It looks damn good, takes half the time, and is just as strong. granted it is a little on the ghetto side.
Actually Im 100% seriouse Ive seen it done and It looks damn good, takes half the time, and is just as strong. granted it is a little on the ghetto side.
#17
wait i just need to clear something up, when you said cut a panel of a junkyard car and glue it on the good car, did u mean gluing it over the damage with removing the damaged 1/4 or leaving damage under it.??? if you glue it over its worse with the possible water situation where water would get between 1/4 panel #1 and panle #2. yes welds can leak but im talkign also about condesation if one panel was glued completely over the other. spd..u see my point now lol
#19
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: chico, cali
Car: 92 camaro Rs
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t-5 WC
if you dont like the idea then dont do it. Its just another option I mean if you wanted you could glue the front with the backing plate and then on the back you can weld your seams. AND IF YOU DIDNT HEAR ME BEFOR THE GLUE IS STRONGER THAN A WELD AND IS STRONGER THAN THE METAL ITS GLUING TOGETHER, it also takes alot of the time for body work out of the equation.
#20
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
for the guy that works with his dad at a body shop...i got an estimate at one of the body shops here and was wanting to know if you think it sounds right...he said 500 for pannel, another 500 for other parts (wheel wells and such) then 500 for labor? not having him paint the outside for me and my buddy are learning how to paint, and are wanting to paint it this summer...so 1500-2000 for it sound good?
#21
Yeh 500 sounds about right if he is buying the full quarter original gm. But i bet he would charge u that n just buy the skin.You could get a reproduction skin they dont fit as good usually i dunno some fit perfect but you trim them neway to fit. If you dont know the diff you might think the skin as a whole quarter it just dont wrap around as much in the door jams and dont go up quite as far. The gm full quarter welds in factory places. We usually use the skin cause they usually dont need the full quarter and it saves alot of money. The skin is 99$.You can get the wheel well depending on the side around 200 thats original gm i dont think they have a repoduction. Check www.classicindustries.com and there is another place called paddock i think they have a site also. Year one is exspensive.
#23
ive seen brand new repro 1/4 panels for less than 500. i know Year one sells em for around 411 and those are really good quality..heres the link http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/h...p?hid=G20AC229
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
From: South NJ
Car: 1988 Mustang GT
Engine: 302
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by ERICCAMARO
if you dont like the idea then dont do it. Its just another option I mean if you wanted you could glue the front with the backing plate and then on the back you can weld your seams. AND IF YOU DIDNT HEAR ME BEFOR THE GLUE IS STRONGER THAN A WELD AND IS STRONGER THAN THE METAL ITS GLUING TOGETHER, it also takes alot of the time for body work out of the equation.
if you dont like the idea then dont do it. Its just another option I mean if you wanted you could glue the front with the backing plate and then on the back you can weld your seams. AND IF YOU DIDNT HEAR ME BEFOR THE GLUE IS STRONGER THAN A WELD AND IS STRONGER THAN THE METAL ITS GLUING TOGETHER, it also takes alot of the time for body work out of the equation.
#27
i work in a local bodyshop at a Chevy dealership (Gordon Cheverolet) . We use the 3M panel bond all the time. 3M has done test with it and it is stronger than any type of weld. The ONLY down side to it is you still have to have a spot weld at each corner for factory warranty purposes and you still have to stitch-weld the "sail panel" As for weakening the frame-Impossible! The 1/4 panel is NOT attached to the frame. It is attached to the floor and rear body panel. The floor is attached to the frame. Replacing a 1/4 panel can be just a easy as replacing a fender AS long as you KNOW what your doing.
#28
Yeh i had the sems guy stop at our shop 1 day n show a demonstration. Im sure it just like the 3m stuff It works great But just not what some1 wants on a restoration. Now i know they use it like crazy in dealer body shops and so on cause it saves time and in body shops time = money.They say they even use it on floor pans. SpdFrk's camaro
Last edited by Spdfrk1990; 03-20-2003 at 08:47 PM.
#34
Ahh that sux it isnt fun getting duraglass n **** on ur hands.I had to clean my hands and arms many times with thinner b4 from under coating n crap. Guess that what i get for not wearin a throw away suit.
#35
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
well..from what happened, and looking at the damage, i am pretty sure i'll need a whole new quater panel lol...someone cut me off on the highway and i spun out and hit the guard rail at 45 mph or so...it's all crunched up and such lol
#37
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
i'm sure the frame is bend....he brought that up when i was talking to him (when i knew it was anyways lol) but, i'm gonna get it done...so..hopefully i'm getting a good price on it
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