camaro6spd

I have remove all removeable body items, such as bumper covers, spoilers, ground effects, weatherstripping...etc etc
THIS IS HOW I PLAN ON GOING ABOUT MY REPAINT, MR.GOLDMAN IS MY POLYTECH TEACHER. I AM IN CHARGE OF HOW MY CAR GETS DONE, I HAVE MADE THIS FROM MY EXPERIANCE FROM WORKING AT A HIGH END AUTOBODY SHOP AND FROM MY POLYTECH CLASS(auto body).

I am looking for your input on what you think should be improved or differ? I am using the epoxy as a sealer and as a rust preventative. The sealer after the primer is to improve adheasion of the basecoat....Final Sand is a paste with fine gritty stuff in it and it helps the scuff pad do its job in a much consistent way and also cleans as it works.

Work Order for 1988 Chevrolet IROC-Z Camaro

1)DA all paint off car down to original primer using 40 grit on a DA.

2)Remove Doors
a) Mask off inner door w/ masking plastic
b) Remove all wax/grease/road grime from doors
c) Start hinge repair by removing old pins and bushings, prep the area for the installation but do not install
d) Scuff inner door with gray scuff pad
3)Remove trunk lid and inspect and repair rust damage
a) Remove wax/grease/road grime
b) Scuff underside of lid and all visible white painted areas when trunk lid is opened.

4)Repeat process for the tonneau cover

5)DA all paint off the rest of the car, including the bumper covers, ground effects, spoiler (careful not to remove the sub straight) etc, with 80 grit on a DA.

6)Repair all dents and high spots on car
a) lower high spots and make them small depressions
b) fill all dents and depressions with body filler, sand down with 80, over sand just a little
c) apply Evercoat polyester glazing putty over all body work and sand with 180 grit.

7)Move car over to frame pulling area (where the Mustang currently sits).
a) weld tabs to ¼ panel with placement up to the judgment of Mr.Goldman.
b) Have Mr. Goldman pull the ¼ panel out and back.

8)Lower all the high spots and raise all the low spots from the previous accident on the right ¼ panel.
a) Apply body filler, sand with 80 grit, slightly over sand.
b) Apply Evercoat polyester glazing putty as a final coat.

9)Wipe all scuffed areas(door jambs, under trunk, tonneau cover etc) with wax/grease remover.
a) mask off objects not to be painted, such as interior, inside of the door, wires etc
b) Spray 2 coats of base color and 1 coat of clear.

10)Mask off newly painted areas and all objects on the exterior of the car not desired to be painted.
a) blow dust off, wipe car down, tack rag the car.
b) spray 1 coat of Epoxy Primer
c) spray 1 coat of High Build Primer over body work
d) spray 2 coats of High Build over entire car

11)Wet sand Primer with 500 grit paper.

12)Wash car, remask, blow off, wipe down, and tack rag the car
a) spray 1 coat of sealer
b) spray 2-3 coats of base color
c) spray 1 coat of clear

13)Let paint dry scuff entire car with gray pad and Final Sand
a) wash entire car down and dry

14)Install front bumper cover and front spoiler/skirt

15)Remask and add ghost flames, blow off, wipe down, and tack rag the car
a) spray ghost flames

16)Remove car, let paint dry, and scuff flames with Gray pad and Final Sand
a) wash front half of car and dry off

17)Remask is needed, blow off, wipe down, and tack rag the car.

18)Spray 2-3 coats of clear

19)COLOR SANDING
a) wetsand clear with 1200 grit then 2000 grit
b) wash car
c) Buff Car as per fender project, heavy Cut, medium cut, machine glaze, etc etc.

yes that is hard to read but that is how i typed it up in word, yeah it looks better in word then here.

Sickness91Z28

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a job....the only thing I wouldn't do it I wouldn't use 80 grit sand paper and your ground effects and your bumpers. 80 grit would tear them up pretty bad.....I would use...maybe 180....if you used 80 grit on the plastic/urethane parts....it would eat through them in no time...and would leave some pretty nasty scratches in'em......

Slade1

I second the going easier on the gfx, one you get into the plastic, its a pain to get it back to decent.

TomP

Why are you going to d/a all the paint off the car? You said you plan on using a sealer. Be careful in the area where the b-pillars meet the roof; GM's filled that area in with lead.

bubbz89

FOR THE LOVE OF 3RD GENS.....PLEASE DONT DA YOUR CAR WITH 40 GRIT. 180 Will pull all the dead paint off. no need to sand all the way down to original primer. i do bodywork for a living (on eighteen wheelers) and when i grind hucks,monos,bucks,hemrons,etc... i use a grinder with 36 grit disc. i can only imagine trying to fix 40 grit swirls all over a car. LOTS of mudwork. unless you are painting NEW metal, there is no need to seal anything, all you need to do is prime the spots where you are using mud(bondo). everything can can be knocked off with 180. are you going back the original color?? who is going to do the EXSTENSIVE mud work on the 1/4 panel? everything else sounds pretty decent, but i would use 40 grit unless you are just knocking some mud off. no way would i use it to da a whole car. good luck man and what kinda base/clear you using?

85SportCoupeto89RS

I da'ed my body with 80 grit, but I had to go thru 6 layers of repaint And most parts on my bumpers. On the gfx's I hand sanded the paint off with a block 180 grit followed with 320. Did all the body work, preped the car and painted. Turned out pretty good for a 350.00 paint job, and the fact the I had no prior body work and painting experiance.

GKK

If you're going to use 40 grit, you might as well sand to bare metal and then Metal Etch the body before priming and sealing. Also, you're only applying 1 coat of Clear? You should spray at least 4 coats of Clear in different thicknesses. 1st coat-apply lightly 2nd coat-medium 3rd coat-medium wet and 4th coat-wet. it's important to apply the Clear in gradual stages because if it is applied to heavy, the clear will move the metallic around causing blotches or puddling.

camaro6spd

too late i already DAed with 40 down the the primer, then 80 down to metal. You are not supposed to use etch under epoxy, and the high build filler primer should take out all the 80 grit sand scraches.....if you wanted to come to my polytech and use 180 to get it all off(about 3 repaints)....go ahead..you would have been theere for like 4 weeks. I took the paint off b/c the old stuff was crappy, cracking, some rust under the paint.....I dunno.....it should be okay. I am doing all the body work.

GKK

Anytime you have bare metal you have to metal etch the surface before applying anything else. These are the two spray metal etch chemicals I use. They put a galvanized type of coating on the metal.

camaro6spd

I am using ICI ValuPRO(PPG OMNI), and on the tech sheet for epoxy it says, DO NOT USE OVER ETCH PRIMER. I can find the site for you later....the only problem i am having is located the metalics and pearls for this paint(Ghost flames), that is why 1 coat of clear, the the flames and then 2 more coats of clear.

Link to the tech sheet..........
http://www.autobodysupply.net/iciaut.../vp3301200.htm

bubbz89

if you are down to bare metal, the car needs to be sealed.PERIOD
with a self etching primer. also note that you cannot sand self etching primer. my point>>> you should not have went to bare metal, that was work that is unessesary. now that you have exsposed BARE metal, it needs to be sealed. your car man, my 2 cents. good luck

GKK

The Two Chemicals I showed you are a Chemical wash that you apply to the bare metal with a scotch brite pad and it forms a Galvanized Type coating on the metal surface. It is Not A Primer. You can then apply whatever primer or sealer you want.

Kat

iTrader: (4)

All I can add to this is get some 3M guide coat when youa re going to blcok sand the primer. It really helps when looking for the low spots and it also helps to see where you have sanded.

Also for some more tips check out the message board at www.autobodystore.com

Kat

camaro6spd

oh...ok....so the metal treatment is a good idea...i am gonna have to look into that...thanks....didn't know.

bubbz89

regular black spray paint will work as a guide coat, its all ive ever used, it may save you some money, i dunno how much the 3m stuff is. good luck

Diabolical

any spray paint of a contrasting color will work, all you're doing is sanding it off, so you don't have to worry about how well the final paint will cover it.

icebird_1981

sound like u got it all down. i would say u are doin some stuff that arnt really needed but what ever works 4 u.

camaro6spd

yeah well the paint was crappy and i had it down in the shop, so i figured y not, i have the beater to run around in.

raggedout91RS

Just how crappy is your paint. Your plan seems like a little overkill for your car. You almost make it sound like it needs a total restoration. Just my opinion.

camaro6spd

it was cracked to all hell, there was some rust under various spots of the car, the paint of the bumper was cracked all the way down to the bumper cover itself(cover not cracked). And with 3 paints jobs(each with base,clear,primer,etch coating) it was getting pretty thick.....BESIDES, the labor is free, y not do it this way. All the opions that i got from my old bodyshop and school said take it down. So y not...i don't see the big deal...it is not like i need the car back. It took like a week to get the paint down, and i onlt get and hour and a half to work on it a day. So it is no big deal.

85TPI400

camaro6spd,
Have your been making any progress on this car?
I am considering using the ICI paint myself, Is there base/ clearcoat urethane or enamel?

camaro6spd

well yes i am making progress but it is slow. I only get about 45min to an hour of working on it all day and i do have three other people working on it but they are working really slow and it is gettn warm out....NE WAY, yeah the only part that is ready to be primed is the ground effects and front bumper cover. I have all the paint off with 40, the trunk lid and hood are down completly with 80 but those other people are working on rust and dents. Those two parts should be done faily soon....ummm, lets see, i pulled the 1/4panel, only a little uni-spotting and filler work left there. then the rest of the car can go down with 80 and while this is going on one of my other friends in poly tech is supposed to be installing the door hindge repair kits and preping the door and jambs for paint. I hope to have to start to move along a little fast now. I will post back here how the paint sprays and turns out, then later on how it holds up.

camaro6spd

oh
and
they
have
both
paint
systems