350turbo411

Hello, i'm restoring my camaro. Now is the time where I get into the body work..

I sand the area to the metal about 3 inches around the dent. (small dent)
Put on my body filler
Rough sand
Sand with 80....
and then finish up with 220...
I spray some sandable primer on the area....

Now....I can see the body work...through the primer!!!!....it looks like a flat looking spot with a shinny ring around it..........Every time i try.....I cant feel the body work..but I can see it....even with some gloss black over the area... I think i'm having trouble blending..(feathering ..)...I don't know what else I can do....

Rob...

FyreLance

I wonder if it will matter so long as you can't feel it....

That's odd, how many layers of primer? What kind?

pskel350

are you going have the car painted soon?

I have a few spots of bondo from shaving emblems and filling the holes from my old spoiler and i am having the same problem....but i talked to my painter and he said dont worry about it. He also said that the rattle can primers are pretty primative....The primer that painters actually use are nothing like the primer you can buy at autozone or anyplace like that. the new primers have a primer, sealer, and a rust prohibiter in them already...or atleast the one that will be sprayed on my car.

If you arent going to just have the car painted over the primer your using, it still wont show through. just put about 2-3 coats of primer and sand smooth than it will be fine.

hope this helps, good luck

Z28Clone

if u can still see a difference then u need more coats of primer. resand w/ 220 or higher between each new coat. it will work its way out. the use of spot putty works wonders.

82camaro

Yep, 3m spot and glazing compound is great for the small stuff. Other than that, keep sanding and primering. I like to use 320 on a D/A for most stuff like that.

bnoon

You also want to make sure that your sanding block is longer than the area being repaired. The edges of a repair can be blended, but there could still be a gradual high center if it's not blocked correctly. One way to ensure this doesn't happen is to block sand, primer, then block sand again to see if any high spots are still present.

It's either that, or you've only put a really thin layer of primer on, or just not feathered it out far enough because even the cheap primers in spray bombs are normally one coat primers now a days.

Just FYI, a normal round D A sander should be used for surface prep only, not for taking down high spots of filler/primer. Use a long, block style body sander in either single action (S A) or dual action (D A).

89cmrodriver

i used a palm sander to do all my body work....worked good put a good amount of bondo on cause u can always sand it off, then sand to the shape u want using 60 grit sandpaper, primer the spot, (the primer brings out the flaws) then sand more with 100 grit, primer it again, then sand with 160grit to the perfc shape, the use some 200 to get it smooth...that was my "process" and it turned out really nice...

Supercharged84Z

chances are if you cant feel anything wrong then dont worry...and spray primer=crap.

redraif

We had some issues with teh body filler on my door handles when they were shaved. John (my painter) thought it was good to go. It blocked smooth and felt perfect, but darn it when the paint cured in the booth the ring showed up. He took it back down and worked it back down into the filler and then used a buildable primer filler. Its a thick primer that will build much quicker then standard primers. I don't think the spray can body have enough thickness. When you block be sure to use long smooth strokes. Also very lightly mist on some black paint. I think I remember you had to use something special...spray can laquer, maybe. Can you tell I'm not a painter... As you sand the black will stay in the low spots and will quickly sand off high spots. Gives you eyes a hand spotting inconsistancies. Save you from having to feel it with your palm ever few seconds...

SLOWFIVEOH

iTrader: (2)

I have had problems like that...My suggestion would work on one section at a time and feather out that edge until it is perfect then move around the circle...Slow always helps....No rushing if you want it right...

camaro6spd

Body work really is a personal area, yeah there are basic guidelines to follow when doing it but everyone has their own way of going about things, me and alot of other shops around here that do high-uilty work use the round DAs for plpastic shaping, some peopl like to shape plastic all the way if it flat, with the DA, others like my self just use the da to cut down the plastic and then hand block it smooth. some people like cheeze-gaters, other don't, people use differnt grits etc, it is all about getting in there and just experimenting with different ways that make it come out eaiser and better for you. it sounds like you are not feathering the edges out right when you first apply plastic, this happens alot, you need to keep the edges of the plastic as much feathered as possable when it is first applied.....makes sanding and feathering MUCH faster and easier.