Convertible Ground Effects Removal
#1
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Location: Garibaldi Highlands, B.C., Canada
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Car: '88 IROC Convertible
Engine: ZZ4 TPI
Transmission: 5 spd.
Convertible Ground Effects Removal
Has anybody out ther tried to remove the side GFX off an '88 IROC?
It appears that Chevy/ASC never expected anybody to ever have to remove them...on the convertibles the shoulder belt retractor is mounted to some extra bracing that covers up any access to the rearmost GFX mounting nut.
Any ideas besides cutting an access hole?
Don't even suggest going in from the top, I've tried it.
It appears that Chevy/ASC never expected anybody to ever have to remove them...on the convertibles the shoulder belt retractor is mounted to some extra bracing that covers up any access to the rearmost GFX mounting nut.
Any ideas besides cutting an access hole?
Don't even suggest going in from the top, I've tried it.
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Car: 2007 Volvo S60R, 2005 Audi A4
Engine: 300HP 2.5L I5, 200HP 2.0L I4
Transmission: TF-80SC, Getrag 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.33:1, 3.54:1
stargategfx...
Did you try making a hole? I need to know the same thing. I asked on another post where a guy changed from '91 GFX to the 85-90 style; but drilling a hole shouldn't be more than a mild pain in the booty if it comes down to that. I'll let you know if I get a reply.
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Car: 2007 Volvo S60R, 2005 Audi A4
Engine: 300HP 2.5L I5, 200HP 2.0L I4
Transmission: TF-80SC, Getrag 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.33:1, 3.54:1
Yup. Drill a hole. The guy that has done this said he just drilled a hole large enough to get a 1/4" extension, removed the part of the top mechanism thats in the way, and passed the socket down from the top. He also advised having a magnetic pickup tool and band aids handy. What I plan to do is drill a hole 0.750-1.000" dia. to pass the whole socket/extension through so I wouldn't have to mess with the top at all. A magnetic pickup tool or a shop vac with a long thin extension should retrieve the inevitable dropped nut from the top (unfortunately for the vacuum method you'll have to fish it out of the tank, so make sure you empty it first if you do it this way). And of course a socket extension with some wobble in it will help alot as it looks pretty hard to drill in exactly the right spot. Hope this helps, and when I get around to finishing it I'll take pics & try to post them.
#5
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Location: Arizona
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Car: 1989 IrocZ Convertable
Engine: 350 5.7
Transmission: AUTO 4 SPD, THM 700 R4
Axle/Gears: AXLE REAR, 2.73 RATIO
Re: Convertible Ground Effects Removal
how did you find out where to drill the hole? all i know is the back of the ground effect is secured to the body, i have removed all the interior panenling and was expecting to see an access hole to a bolt or something. I am not sure where to drill the hole u discuss becuase i dont know where exactly the bolt is as i have no way to see it, how close to the seatbelt mechanism, which side, etc.. ? any help is appreciated, i can't believe how difficult this has become. I removed all the black tar stuff because it was suggested from another thread there would be an access hole under there, now i did that for nothing i guess; convertables must be different.
thanks...
thanks...
Last edited by Phx89Iroc; 02-15-2011 at 10:04 AM. Reason: mispelling, provide more details.
#6
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Car: 2007 Volvo S60R, 2005 Audi A4
Engine: 300HP 2.5L I5, 200HP 2.0L I4
Transmission: TF-80SC, Getrag 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.33:1, 3.54:1
Re: Convertible Ground Effects Removal
Going from memory because I regrettably sold the car over six years ago, but I recall the bolt being visible from the top with the tonneau raised & seat belt retractor moved. This should help you mark the 'front to back' position, and I think you'll just need to guesstimate on the height. If you make a big enough hole (i.e. 0.750-1.000") you can get a wobble bit or even a universal joint extension thru to make up for any remaining misalignment of the hole w.r.t. the nut. Hope that helps...
PS You have a beautiful car.
PS You have a beautiful car.
#7
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Car: 1989 IrocZ Convertable
Engine: 350 5.7
Transmission: AUTO 4 SPD, THM 700 R4
Axle/Gears: AXLE REAR, 2.73 RATIO
Re: Convertible Ground Effects Removal
thanks, it was even beautiful(er) before i cracked the ground effect by jusing a low budget crappy jack stand that tipped over as i was lowering it. Ill take a look today when im home. thanks.
Last edited by Phx89Iroc; 02-15-2011 at 02:17 PM. Reason: typo.
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#8
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Car: 1989 IrocZ Convertable
Engine: 350 5.7
Transmission: AUTO 4 SPD, THM 700 R4
Axle/Gears: AXLE REAR, 2.73 RATIO
Re: Convertible Ground Effects Removal
ok confirmed, there is a screw/nut at the very bottom by the seatbelt hardware. I was able to shine a flash light down the hole where the seat belt strap comes out. Since i am not able to find a new ground effect after looking for a few weeks (craigslist, ebay, local junk yards, etc..) im just going to leave the one i have on, and reattach the piece with jbweld or marine grade epoxy (still researching). It just seems to much of a chore to take it off.
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