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Door hinges.

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Old 11-21-2002, 11:18 AM
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Door hinges.

I was just looking at a post that is on here and I am having the same problems. The post I am talking about is "Doors not fully attatched". I was thinking maybe I should replace my hinges. Then I got to thinking I have never done anything like that and I don't know how to do anything like that. So if anyone has replaced them is it hard or can any accounting idiot (thats me) fix them? Also one other question. Would it be worth me doing my rust work on my own (not knowing how but using it as a trial and error) or should I just drop the large amount of cash on it and have a professional do it? Thanks for any and all help.

TigersZ
Old 11-21-2002, 12:28 PM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
It's not hard. But you'll need some tools to do the job. For the money you spend for the tooling you can pay to have it done professionally. I bought a special door hanging jack from Harbor Freight p/n 40386-OVGA ($79.99). you'll also need a door spring removal tool, Harbor Freight p/n 46770-OVGA ($4.99). Then you'll need a Dremmel tool to grind off the heads of the swaged hinge pins. You'll also need a long punch set to drive them out. Harbor Freight p/n 32954-OVGA ($6.99). Then just follow the instructions on the 3rdGenSolutions.com web site or the instructions I include with the kit. Or plan a trip out here to SoCal and I'll perform the work for you.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
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Old 11-21-2002, 12:38 PM
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Thanks I might just pay to have it done then. It is getting a little cold here in Ohio so a trip to sunny California does sound good.
Old 11-23-2002, 06:01 PM
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Car: '87 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
hey I am doin the same thing....thanks for those part numbers....i couldn't find those tools....hey where do you get those hinge pins....an't find those either.... oh and if you can give me any tips i would really appreciate it....
Old 11-23-2002, 06:05 PM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
All the parts are available on my web site. We are working to fix a minor glitch that won't let you register or purchase online yet. Until it is resolved, just e-mail or PM me with your shopping list and payment preference.

Lon Salgren
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Old 11-23-2002, 07:12 PM
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Replacing the door hinges is agony and about the worse knuckle and finger tip wrecking job imaginable on the whole car. Getting the door and then the old hinges off took hours and lots of blood. You need to drill and grind, and grind and drill and hope to get the old hinges off and the noew ones in the right place.

Even simply replacing the pins instead of the whole hinge is a pain, the springs do not want to come off or go back on.

I got good hinges from Camaro Junction.

Refitting the door was also a horrible task. you can easily hold them in position with an engine hoist, and it helps if you remove the front wheels and inner wheel arch covers.

It also helps to pull off the door rubber seals, and glue them back afterwards.

The hinge bolts are almost completely inaccessible - of course you can just about reach them, so you spend a day undoing and redoing them up.

Then you have to undo and do them up again to align the doors. Then you have to fix all the paint that got knocked off or scratched

Having got that far, you have to realign the windows, refit the trim and did I mention the wiring for the windows, the door locks, the mirrors. also the radio antenna gets in the way on one side.

It was the worse job on an entire restoration of the car. And I have done cars.

If you have the cash now might be the time to part with it to an expert.
Old 11-23-2002, 08:04 PM
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
With the 3rdgensolutions kit that Lon mentions, no adjustment of the door is required. It is a simple, and very straight forward task.

When you are finished you can grease the new bushings with a grease gun! No more spray lube, or problems!

Thanx,ANDYZ28

Last edited by ANDYZ28; 11-23-2002 at 08:09 PM.
Old 11-23-2002, 09:36 PM
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I did the top and bottom hinges on both doors. The top hinges can't be repaired just by replacing the pin, the whole hinge which is welded to the door, has to be cut off by drilling through the welds. You cannot get a straight line for a drill to the welds without grinding off the hinge arms coming from the door.

The holes for the pins in the hinge go seriously oval, hence the complete replacement needed. They get so oval the bushing is floating around in the hole.

The new hinges bolt in place through the holes you drill to remove the welds holding the old hinges in place.

Doors alway need readjusting to be able to align with the body and to close.

The lower hinge can be repaired with just a pin and bushing, but again the holes go oval but not so badly, so the edges can be worked over to trap the new bushing.

I looked at the web site but couldn't find info about the top hinge. Lots of stores keep the pins and bushing. The complete hinges though are rarer.

I don't agree that for anyone at all it is an easy job to remove a Camaro door. Th wiring alone takes ages to unthread. Getting the door panels back on is hard enough.
Old 11-24-2002, 10:37 AM
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I have a question for you door guys. Should the door be open or closed on the opposite side that you place the jack when lifing one side of the car? I've heard opinions on both ways.....comments???
Old 11-24-2002, 02:40 PM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Jack the car with the doors closed. When you jack up the car. The doors help to support the weight of the car (especially convertibles). I had the front of my car up in the air for a little over 2 months while I was swapping the front nose and installing a new product. I noticed the doors were difficult to open when in that position. The latch would tend to hang up on the striker bolt. The problem went away once the car was finally back on the ground. Yes a SFC helps a lot in this instance to keep the chassis from trying to fold itself in half.

Lon
Old 11-24-2002, 03:05 PM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Originally posted by Andy Bush
I did the top and bottom hinges on both doors. The top hinges can't be repaired just by replacing the pin, the whole hinge which is welded to the door, has to be cut off by drilling through the welds. You cannot get a straight line for a drill to the welds without grinding off the hinge arms coming from the door.

The holes for the pins in the hinge go seriously oval, hence the complete replacement needed. They get so oval the bushing is floating around in the hole.

The new hinges bolt in place through the holes you drill to remove the welds holding the old hinges in place.

Doors alway need readjusting to be able to align with the body and to close.

The lower hinge can be repaired with just a pin and bushing, but again the holes go oval but not so badly, so the edges can be worked over to trap the new bushing.

I looked at the web site but couldn't find info about the top hinge. Lots of stores keep the pins and bushing. The complete hinges though are rarer.

I don't agree that for anyone at all it is an easy job to remove a Camaro door. Th wiring alone takes ages to unthread. Getting the door panels back on is hard enough.
Andy B., You used the old-fashioned method (or GM's method) to repair the door hinges. Yes it WAS a major pita to do it using that method. The upper door hinge kits that Andy Scherrer (aka Andy Z28) manufacturers have greatly simplified this process. If you've let your hinges go to the point that the holes have become oblong, then you may indeed be stuck with replacing the entire hinge. Andy has repaired several hinges with severly worn hinges (major up and down slop to the door) and has succesfully used his kit in every instance to my knowledge.

Using the kit you don't have to un-wire the door. You just move it back from the hinge about 2". Just enough to expose the hole in the hinge portion that remains on the body so you can sand it. You don't need to drill the door hinge welds out either. Are you beginning to see how this kit is a lot easier than the method you used? You do need to use a Dremel tool and abrasive cutoff saw to grind off the heads of the swaged bushings. A few things are still a bit of a pain (such as supporting the door) if you don't have the proper tooling, but the job is a LOT easier now than it once was.

The kits are on my web page under the "Body & Interior" section.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
TDS web site

Last edited by lonsal; 11-24-2002 at 03:12 PM.
Old 11-24-2002, 04:27 PM
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Well I guessed we had to be talking about something really different. I didn't find the new repair method mentioned when lookng to fix the hinges so I went through the drama twice with the complete replacement of the hinges on both doors.

The car was bought to restore and the hinges were already well gone, and I had to strip the whole car anyway to do the restoration.

I have to agree that Harbor Freight tool make life so much simpler. It is my favorite tool store. If I was doing another door I would buy that frame first.
Old 11-28-2002, 12:54 PM
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Car: '87 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
hey anybody know ow to "press" the hinges while the door is still on??.... see i was backin up with the door open and smacked a pole.. and now when i lift the door a little the hinges are real loose... and when i try to close it it sags real bad.. have to lift it every time.. not sure if there is a tool to press them tight again... just don't want to go thru all that hassle if i don't have to.. thanks
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