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rear hatch

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Old 08-20-2002, 06:36 PM
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rear hatch

Does anyone know how to stop your rear hatch from rattling the weatherstrip is in very good cond so why does it still rattle?any help greatly appreciated!
Old 08-20-2002, 08:15 PM
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Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
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Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
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Does your auto pull down still work? If it is broken then it will not shut all the way and bounce the glass.

There is some adjustment to the pull down as well, been a while, I forget how tho.

John
Old 08-20-2002, 11:03 PM
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no its gone where would i get another whole setup then?
What does the whole unit consist of?
Old 08-21-2002, 01:16 AM
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Mines does that to (dad Broke it cous he had to Slam it)

But a New one is 500 From Chevy and its like 400 from some of the other places iv seen new... A used one well run you about 300 at Leats around the Junky Yards around where i live....

but i just Toke mine Unbloted it and lowered it to its lowest Point Stell makes Nose but at leats it does not look like its Open......
Old 08-21-2002, 07:04 AM
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
THERE ARE THREE BOLTS THAT FASTEN THE PULL DOWN MOTOR ASSEMBLY BRACKET TO THE CAR'S BODY. THOSE MAY HAVE COME LOOSE, ALLOWING THE WHOLE LATCHING ASSEMBLY TO SLIDE UP. YOU'LL NEED TO TAKE THE REAR TRIM OFF TO GET TO IT. IF THAT ISN'T IT, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE ONCE INSIDE THERE WHAT THE PROBLEM IS.

:hail:IROC-Z
Old 08-21-2002, 07:12 AM
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We'LL i'M NOT SURE IF MY CAR EVEN HAD THAT WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE ALL I SEE IS A CABLE THAT RUNS TO IT FROM THE KEY WHICH BY THE WAY IS BAD IT SHUTS DOWN ALL THE WAY I MEAN THE TRUNK IS EVEN WITH THE BACK OF THE CAR BUT IT RATTLES
WOULD THERE BE AN ELECTRIC TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH OR NO?
Old 08-21-2002, 08:08 AM
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
When the hatch is closed, can you wiggle the it up and down? You may just need to adjust the 2 rubber bumpers (on the far left and right under the hatch) by turning them counter clockwise.

:hail:IROC-Z
Old 08-21-2002, 09:00 AM
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Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
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Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Locally I have picked up several of the pull downs for about $50 out of junkyards, but I guess that might depend on my local.

John
Old 09-04-2002, 11:40 AM
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look on ebay (search for "hatch motor"). also look at the thirdgen.org classifieds. $50 would be a very good price to pay, but make sure everything is there & in working condition. i'm pretty sure the power hatch motor was standard on all third gens, but not all had the remote hatch release switch. and keep in mind not all of the third gen hatch motors are equal (i think there were two different styles). hopefully one of you more experienced guys can back me up with details on this one
Old 09-04-2002, 02:54 PM
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
d@mn, I only paid $36 inc. shipping on my unit off of ebay a year ago. Guess I am lucky.

Though I wired it in the same way the old one was pluged in and it didn't work. Appearantly the owner before me messed up the wiring and burnt out the old on. I had to use my friends Camaro as a guide to wire it up correctly.
Old 09-04-2002, 03:09 PM
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Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Posts: 14,242
Received 170 Likes on 125 Posts
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
A few things...

There are 3 versions of the rear hatch Latch
Early 1982 - 1985 or 1986 (No pull down)
Mid 1987 - 1991 (Large oversized pulldown)
Late 1991 - 1992 (small pulldown)

I am 80% sure that the power release solonoid is transferable between all models, there is a single 10mm bolt that holds it on the unit.

hope this helps
Old 09-05-2002, 09:20 AM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
You can adjust the unit up or down some by loosening the 3 mount screws. Be sure to mark the original location of the unit so you know where to return it if necessary. The units may needt to be adjusted down a little as teh hatch seals compress with age. But it is important to not adjust it down too far. You MUST hear a click when the unit reaches the bottom of the cycle. This is the sound of the reversing switch being flipped. If it isn't flipped the motor will continue to be energized. This will cause the motor to overheat and fail. The powered hatch pull-down units became standard in 1986. There are a few slight differences in construction between the 1986-87 & 1988-91 units. The only one that would matter is the power connector is different. Swapping the connector can easily solve that. The solenoid release is not interchangeable across all years. They mount differently on the 1982-85 (slam latch) & 1986-91 (powered pull-down) units. There was a major design change in 1991 with vin# 173202. It changed from a larger metal-framed unit to a smaller plastic framed version. All 3 versions (82-85, 86-91 & 91-92) mount to the body differently. I manufacture and stock the parts to repair the 1986-91 units. I've also begun stocking rebuilt and remanufactured units.

Lon
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