someone told me my t-tops are aftermarket.
#1
someone told me my t-tops are aftermarket.
Some guy told me my car came from the factory as a hardtop and had the t-tops installed later, how can I find out if my car came from the factory as a hardtop or t-top and is there anything I should check? The car is a 1991 Z28 5 speed 305.
#2
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From: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Car: 1991 T/A - Sold (sniff) 1980 T/A Pa
Check your RPO sheet for the RPO CC1. If its there you will know they are factory tops.
Otherwise, the most distinguishing appearance of the aftermarket tops is that they sit further back from the windsheild than the factory ones, and have a large black weather seal running around them.
Or.. you could attach a picture and let us see them.
Otherwise, the most distinguishing appearance of the aftermarket tops is that they sit further back from the windsheild than the factory ones, and have a large black weather seal running around them.
Or.. you could attach a picture and let us see them.
#3
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
the EASIEST way to tell if your tops are aftermarket are to look for the following:
the top will have on it some where C&C (Cars & Concepts)
The width of the gap between the windshield and Top is greater than the width between the Windshield and Door window then you have an aftermarket top, (Its obvious, about twice the width for non stock t-tops...)
John
the top will have on it some where C&C (Cars & Concepts)
The width of the gap between the windshield and Top is greater than the width between the Windshield and Door window then you have an aftermarket top, (Its obvious, about twice the width for non stock t-tops...)
John
#4
Yup the gap at the top of the windshield is bigger and the glass has the C&C logo, i'm kinda pissed now just got the car 6 weeks ago and thought it was all original. Why bother making it into t-top seems like a waste to me, maybe if it was a 350 is would be worth it but it's just a 305. Anyway thanks for the replies but I got one more question, i'm putting in a 450hp engine and the guy that pointed out the t-tops said I should get a cage installed because the roof and sidepillar arn't reinforced like the factory t-top cars, what do you guys think?
#5
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From: Stafford, VA
Car: 2000 Corvette FRC
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M6
No, you don't need a cage. The hardtop cars are only slightly more supported than the t-top cars. Its just sheetmetal that makes them stronger... its not like they have I-beams in the roof or anything.
Every f-body could benefit from some SFC's... but you really don't need them either.
Every f-body could benefit from some SFC's... but you really don't need them either.
#6
well at least you have t-tops right, if they dont leak so what if there not factory...
i heard that t-top cars from the factory are suported around the sail panels and that middle metal bar is beefed up also, more than the hartop to compensate for the less of the roof.
so t-tops cars are only alittle weaker than hardtops from the factory.
you probably want to get sub frame connectors! they will help alot i am getting some soon.
yeah i heard that 1991 z28's with 305 tpi, manual and t-tops from the factory were rae, you would of had to been real lucky to get one of those, but you have it! just not factory.
good luck with your car
i heard that t-top cars from the factory are suported around the sail panels and that middle metal bar is beefed up also, more than the hartop to compensate for the less of the roof.
so t-tops cars are only alittle weaker than hardtops from the factory.
you probably want to get sub frame connectors! they will help alot i am getting some soon.
yeah i heard that 1991 z28's with 305 tpi, manual and t-tops from the factory were rae, you would of had to been real lucky to get one of those, but you have it! just not factory.
good luck with your car
Last edited by MdFormula350; 08-09-2002 at 02:43 PM.
#7
Thanks for the info guys, i'm definately going with subframe conectors but i'm still thinking about the cage i'm interested in the kenny brown 6 point street cage if I do get one i don't want it obstructing me from getting in and out of the car.
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#8
I was also going to replace the rubber seals around the t-tops do i have to find ones that work with the C&C or can the factory ones be modified, does anyone know if you can still buy the replacement glass C&C t-tops or do you just have to hunt around for them?
#9
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Hunting would be the only choice I can concieve of. Unfortunately I do not know of anyone making weatherstrip for non-factry t-tops.
John
John
#10
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From: Livermore, Ca. US
Car: Firebird SSA
Engine: 3.1
Transmission: 700R4
You can get them here. I have a set of C&C on my car. Havn't hand any problems with them.
http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/c&cf82.htm
http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/c&cf82.htm
Last edited by Firebird90; 08-09-2002 at 06:56 PM.
#11
Originally posted by Firebird90
You can get them here. I have a set of C&C on my car. Havn't hand any problems with them.
http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/c&cf82.htm
You can get them here. I have a set of C&C on my car. Havn't hand any problems with them.
http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/c&cf82.htm
#13
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
thats pretty much it, the gap is larger between the w/s and the top.
Some of them were REALLY cool tho, they could pop up and be like a sunroof that would suck air out.
John
Some of them were REALLY cool tho, they could pop up and be like a sunroof that would suck air out.
John
#14
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From: Quakertown, PA
Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 Convertible Z03
Engine: 383 SuperRam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
wow, learn something new everyday, I thought the hard top ones were weaker when you cut it up and put T-tops in. I guess not!
#15
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From: Livermore, Ca. US
Car: Firebird SSA
Engine: 3.1
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by okfoz
thats pretty much it, the gap is larger between the w/s and the top.
Some of them were REALLY cool tho, they could pop up and be like a sunroof that would suck air out.
John
thats pretty much it, the gap is larger between the w/s and the top.
Some of them were REALLY cool tho, they could pop up and be like a sunroof that would suck air out.
John
C&C also had tops that poped up for $1000 more...
Here are some pic: My car was dirty in on of the pic's
#16
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by 86FyrBrd
wow, learn something new everyday, I thought the hard top ones were weaker when you cut it up and put T-tops in. I guess not!
wow, learn something new everyday, I thought the hard top ones were weaker when you cut it up and put T-tops in. I guess not!
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