Jokerman

Ok i have a 91 rs with a power rear hatch. The problem is I can't get it open. There is no external release or lock and when i hit the little button in the center console that should open it all i get is a quick pop from a selonoid back there. Is this a bad motor, bad lock what?

MetalliCamaroRS

iTrader: (15)

I don't know if this will work, but its worth a shot.

Put the key in the hatch lock and turn it. Leave it turned and pull up on the hatch. I'm pretty sure that when you turn the key it both unlatches the hatch and starts the motor lifting it up. If the motor is dead, it should still unlatch the hatch. That way you can take the panel off and see whats wrong with the motor or replace it. Good luck!

Jokerman

well i don't have a lock key as the previouse owner lost it and ijust haven't gotten to getting a new one made. I thought that maybe the little button was supposed to unlock and open it for you but i guess not. Oh and i am idiot i found the lock for the hatch finnaly by moveing the license plate holder down (hinged). So once i get a key ill try that trick thanks.

88Bravo

You have to get a lock from the dealer. I think they are about 25-30 dollars. Then you will have to go to a locksmith and have it keyed. Good luck.

MetalliCamaroRS

iTrader: (15)

If you don't have a lock, have someone hit the hatch release button and hold it while you lift up on the hatch. I believe it'll work the same way.

Jokerman

ok i got the keys made and now i can unlock the hatch but it will not release and come up. Is this because of a dead motor, something stuck what? Its fairly hot here and i won't be able to touch the hatch motor for awhile especially if i can't open the hatch and have to crawl in from the front.

Sciguyjim

I have a similar problem. Just turn the key to unlock the hatch and, while holding the turned key, lift up on the hatch. It should come right up. If the motor is good it will come up now separately.

Jokerman

Tried lifting up with the key turned all i succeed in doing is lifting the rear of the car up and down. The hatch stays firmly down, which i guess is better than popping up all the time, but i would like to be able to get back there.

Sciguyjim

Sounds like the lock itself is frozen. Guess it's time to call a locksmith, maybe they can unlock it or remove it. Good luck.

Jokerman

Thats the thing i had the car at a locksmiths to get the key made since the previouse owner lost em. The lock smith said the lock was working and that there was probably something else holding it shut. Does anybody know of a way to get it open with out breaking things.

MetalliCamaroRS

iTrader: (15)

I have no idea. In order to get to the latch, you have to remove the interior panel that covers the power motor assembly. And in order to do that, you have to remove two screws that are on top that you can't get to without the hatch open.

Sciguyjim

Maybe a mechanic at the dealer might know some trick. I'd even call GMs main customer service center for advice before I started breaking things.

When you turn the key does it feel or sound like the lock mechanism is moving? Did you try lifting the hatch while someone else pushes the button on the dash? You said you hear a click when you do this, maybe it'll come free with pulling and button pushing. You can also try having someone push the button while you use the key. Maybe releasing both at the same time will free it.

Good luck.

1991Formula350

I've had so many problems with my trunk latch system, bought 2 new ones over the years, same damn problem, a G.M. glitch I guess. Plan on yanking it all out ffor a standard latch assy. Andy

Jokerman

It honestly feels like the lock mechanism is working but that something isn't releaseing. I will probably go down to the local "bend you over" GM dealer and see what they can tell me. I hate dealerships, three times the money and twice the wait time for the same part or service. Thanks for the help and i will try the two person button push idea as well. Ill keep you guys posted.

qytum

If worst gets to worst, you could always crawl back there and break the plastic around the hatch area and see what is going on. It should only be $20 at a local junk yard.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I haven't chimmed in so far, because I don't have good news. There is no trick GM has to open it. You will have to crawl back into the hatch and hack the plastic panel apart. I suggest you do this in the shade or you'll bake back there. Once you have the plastic trim panel out of the way and the pull-down unit exposed, remove the 10mm bolt that attaches the hatch solenoid release (shiney silver thing). Once you have that out of the way you will see a square hole on the left and below the latch. Using a screwdriver push on the tab and rotate it counter-clockwise. It will release the latch. If that won't release for some reason, mark the location of the pull-down unit to the body with an awl or permanent marker (this is important for alignment purposes to re-install it when you get it repaired). Now remove the 3 13mm bolts attaching the pull-down unit to the body. The hatch will now open, but the pull-down unit is still stuck to the hatch. At least now you'll have more room to work on it now. Once you've got this solved you may find that the manual release cable which attaches to the back of the lock was not connected. I don't understand why you don't have a key for the hatch release, considering it is the same as the door key. Unless someone has changed the locks. All 3 (actually 4 if you count the locking compartment in the hatch) should have been changed to the same key. The relay for the hatch release is beneath the center console. The fuse for the hatch release is your accessory fuse #11 (20 amps) third row down and third from the left. Another thing to look at is make sure the ground wire is attached from the latch to the body. Otherwise the solenoid won't get a ground. If you need any parts to repair the hatch pull-down unit or a remanufactured unit I can help, e-mail me. Good luck, Lon.

HamsterOnaMission

don't supose it's possible to do this throught the hole for the light or switch...

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I say no.

Lon

PONTIACGTA1988

HI,I WAS THINKING THE LOCK IS CONNECTED TOO A WIRE LIKE THAT USED ON THE BRAKES OF A BICYCLE,WHAT IF THAT BROKE INSIDE OR WASNT CONNECTED RIGHT?..HEY JUST A THOUGHT,BUT THE BEST WAY IS TO CRAWL BACK THERE..KEEP US POSTED

2vmodular

power tools such as a grinding wheel or dremel will make the job of cutting an access hole in the plastic panel considerable easier

Makai

Mine pops open if I hit the button from the dash, but if someone isn't standing back there to lift it soon as it pops, it goes back down. Here's what I'm thinking. Tell me if this could be the problem. The rear struts/shocks are shot, is the hatch too heavy and thats why it keeps pulling back down? Just a thought. I'll be changing the struts soon as i get someone to hold up the hatch. If that works I'll post it here.

Sciguyjim

Makai,
My hatch does the exact same thing as yours. It worked correctly when the car was new. I've replaced the struts with new ones, the strongest I could use, but there is no change in its operation (or lack of it.) However, I have rear window louvres which add quite a bit of weight, maybe 16 pounds or something like that.
Jim

Makai

Hmmmm, ok, i guess i can deal with it....the key works, so it's not something major thats driving me nuts right now. I have other glitches i need to work out, such as why the battery keeps dying.

Thanx for your input

PONTIACGTA1988

my battery dies too..damn alarm??...i know the ecm must take a tiny bit of electricity but not too kill the battery ?..sometimes the mass airflow burnoff sensor gets stuck....iam gonna check it this way..loosen the positive cable on the battery then remove all fuses..plug the first fuse in then with the positive cable touch the battery post..if theres a big spark you've kinda narrowed the problem down..if theres a better way please tell me ..iam ok at electricity,not great..i am so damn lazy with that car anyone know of a job in nyc??? my wife is expecting,she tell me to sell my gta and get a rice burner..i should divorce her just for that thought...i am gonna have to get a second job for my hobby but hey its for a gta so its worth it..oh yeah and the baby thats on the way heheh...

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Until you can chase down the short or circuit draining the battery I have a band-aid. Get a battery disconnect switch, commonly used on RV's. It mounts to the battery post and completly disconnects the battery from the car. It will be a minor pain to pop the hood every morning, but at least your battery will be good.

Lon

Makai

Hey, thats sounds like a GREAT idea. Beats jumping it all the time.
Besides, all that jumping can't possibly be good for any part of the car.

Thanx, Marie

Ryan_Alswede

DID YOU EVER CHECK THE FUSE of the motor??? LOL the release button and the motor are on different fuses I belive, check ALL FUSES and make sure the batery is producing 12 volts. HOW the hell do you lose the door key but not the ignition key, won't a person have them on the same key chain, are you sure the car isn't stolen, I would check?? The door key is the same key for the lock behind the rear licence plate. What it is more likely is the hatch realese Relay that is behind the left rear tail light, that is what operates everything.

Ryan_Alswede

As far as the guys with the bad batteries, you all ever check your charging system for leaks, shorts. Have the altanator check for proper AMP discharge. It may be producing proper volts but could be losing porduction when under load and not alowing the battery to get a charge.

Jokerman

Hey ryan, ya its kinda strange. I found out awhile ago why it wouldn't open. the motor and mounting plate are off and just kinda hangine there while a ratchet tie down hold the hatch closed. I am figureing that he "lost" the key in order to not have to show that he had torn up the back hatch area. Oh well, i still love my car and have a blast driveing it. It looks like i am gonna have to get the complete rear pull down assembly because mine looks pretty thrashed.

Ryan_Alswede

I would sell you my spare but you would have to check your VIN number because the one I have is only for some 1991s and for all 1992s because they changed it in your year. let me know the last 6 digits of your VIN (count back from the right)