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Lexan T-tops, more questions and some new info

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Old 06-26-2002, 01:14 PM
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Lexan T-tops, more questions and some new info

Ok, I've been trying to decide if I should swap out my glass t-tops for a set of lexan ones. I knew the lexans were lighter, but I wanted to know how much, so I weighed them. (I know, dork!) Anyway, for both t-tops, you'll save about 13 pounds if you go from glass to lexan. As for the scratches, I took a buffer and some meguirs polishing compound and started buffing an area. After just a minute of buffing I could see a huge difference! It took out all the fine scratches, and also took away the haze. They look great! I took a few pics but I dont have them up on my computer yet.
Now here's the problem: first of all, the plastic strip that runs along the outside of the ttop is all warped and wavy on the lexan ones and it looks really bad. Plus the t-top lock won't match my key. So I'm thinking I may not put them on my car after all. I started to take the t-top apart to see if I could switch the plastic strip and the lock between the lexan and the glass ones, but it looks like it would be pretty much impossible. If anyone has successfully switched the plastic strip or lock, let me know.
Old 06-26-2002, 07:33 PM
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The locks are SUPER easy. Took me about 20 minutes a side out and in.
I presume by the plastic part you are referring to the drip rail or peice that would be just above the windows. I have'nt messed with that so I can't help you.
Old 06-26-2002, 08:24 PM
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Do ya mean the strip that hangs over the window is twisted & warped?
Mine where bent so I used a heat gun on them (carefully) & then sandwiched them between 2 flexible 3mm thick pieces of timber, clamped lightly and when they cooled(few minuites) they came out smooth as. if your talking about the strip that meets in the centre of the roof I'd be very carefull but the same method might work.
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