Small Rust Spots
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: CT
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Car: '86 Camaro
Engine: LG4
Transmission: T5
Small Rust Spots
What do you guys think about fixing these rust spots? I want to get rid of them as soon as possible before they get any bigger.
I have a Dremel, 2000 grit wetsand paper, black primer, red paint, and black paint to work with right now.
Rust pics
The first picture is just a ding on the door and a 2" x 2" patch of rust on the black on the bottom.
I have an almost identical rust pattern on the other side except for the fender flare that is in the second picture.
I've read a few of the posts about ospho and por-15 and such, should i go ahead and use a converter, or just grind/sand the rust off and prime and paint it?
Also, there is a ding/dent in each of the doors, should i pop that out before getting the rust off or after getting the rust off??
Thanks
I have a Dremel, 2000 grit wetsand paper, black primer, red paint, and black paint to work with right now.
Rust pics
The first picture is just a ding on the door and a 2" x 2" patch of rust on the black on the bottom.
I have an almost identical rust pattern on the other side except for the fender flare that is in the second picture.
I've read a few of the posts about ospho and por-15 and such, should i go ahead and use a converter, or just grind/sand the rust off and prime and paint it?
Also, there is a ding/dent in each of the doors, should i pop that out before getting the rust off or after getting the rust off??
Thanks
#4
Roughly...
1. find as many spots as you can
2. A wire wheel can help determine the extent of the damage
(it will grind right through rust but will simply scratch paint
and solid metal)
3. Choose your rust treatment method
( I use the POR 15 stuff but many have reported success
with other methods )
4. Follow the directions of the manufacturer with whatever
system you use. ( no shortcuts here, if you can't do this
sell the car)
Now you are ready to start the putty, sand, prime, sand,
color, sand, clear, sand, buff, buff, buff routine...
1. find as many spots as you can
2. A wire wheel can help determine the extent of the damage
(it will grind right through rust but will simply scratch paint
and solid metal)
3. Choose your rust treatment method
( I use the POR 15 stuff but many have reported success
with other methods )
4. Follow the directions of the manufacturer with whatever
system you use. ( no shortcuts here, if you can't do this
sell the car)
Now you are ready to start the putty, sand, prime, sand,
color, sand, clear, sand, buff, buff, buff routine...
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: South Haven, MI
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You can follow my link for some pics on how I am dealing with my surface rust but in short.
1. sand the area and go at least 2-3 inches around it.
2. sand blast the area and get ALL the rust out of the pits if there are any.
3. Use a product called Iceing, it is a two part sandable filler. The red bondo 1 part stuff id junk, and will show later on through the paint.
4. sand, re-apply,sand ect until it blends nicely into the surrounding paint.
Then prime and finish. THis is what a friend of mine who has been in the body business for 25+ years, and actually owns his own shop. The most importatn part is to get all the old rust out..
1. sand the area and go at least 2-3 inches around it.
2. sand blast the area and get ALL the rust out of the pits if there are any.
3. Use a product called Iceing, it is a two part sandable filler. The red bondo 1 part stuff id junk, and will show later on through the paint.
4. sand, re-apply,sand ect until it blends nicely into the surrounding paint.
Then prime and finish. THis is what a friend of mine who has been in the body business for 25+ years, and actually owns his own shop. The most importatn part is to get all the old rust out..
#6
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Gloucester,England,UK
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Car: '92 RS Camaro
Engine: 406ci D1SC SBC
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" W/Truetrac
Couldn't agree more Ergo60 about getting every last bit of rust out on exterior bodywork.Instead of shot blasting I use rust eating acid as I haven't got any blasting kit,It has the same zero rust effect though even though it takes a while.It seems that a lot of people keep on about using por15 on exterior bodywork when it's best use is for rusty chassis parts,underbody,areas where a perfect finish isn't so critical etc.Like you said your friend owns a bodyshop and he knows what he's talking about,namely theres a right tool for the right job and quick paint over fixes are no substitute for quality(and sometimes time consuming)methods.Ask loads of good auto body shops(as I have)and they will come up with similar replies.
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