Buck268

My underbody have some rust on it. Its not rusted through, but a good portion of it is nicely corroded. What would be my best bet? I was thinking *if* I keep the car, maybe new floor boards, but then I thought unibody - hm... maye to much work to be worth it?? Then I thought about that POR-15 stuff, but its not evenly corroded, and I dont have a lift to access under well enough to sprip paint, etch, and then POR-15 it all. Anyone who has delt wiuth underbody/floor board rust, please state your experiences, as I am at a major mile stone - keep car, fix problems, or sell car and buy truck (I am like both options!!).

spartyon

buck,
do you love your car? did u always take care of her? if so she loves u to and i wouldnt trade that for the world. everyone needs some one to love and be loved from. if u love that car keep it. yeah problems arise and its a bitch to maintain but you can always hey thats my car. i did it all myself! pride feels good. keep it dammit. i feel like a counselor

TomP

I would vote for the POR15... it's a pretty simple process. Buy their $20 super starter kit from their website, it comes with the marine clean cleaner, zinc wash/metal prep, a can of POR-15, two brushes, and a set of gloves. (USE THE GLOVES for the POR-15!!!!) Brake cleaner -can- remove POR-15 from concrete, as long as it's used immediately. Don't expect to remove dried POR-15 from anything! And wear long sleeves (and goggles)- i got black specs all over my arm from using the brush. http://www.por15.com

So I'd say to scrape the undercoating off... maybe with some bug & tar remover, or use http://www.eastwoodcompany.com 's undercoating removal products (scraper & solvent). Then hit the rust with the POR-15 products. The cleaner & metal prep can be applied with a sponge, or an old washed-out windex bottle. You wash both products off with regular 'ol water. After you wash the prep off (side benefit, it also removes some rust! The zinc promotes POR-15 adhesion), let it dry for a bit; throw a light bulb on it for an hour or so. Then brush the POR-15 on.

POR-15 is very "thin", so you don't need to spray it; the brush works great. In fact, by brushing it on, you can ensure that you give a thin uniform coating to all rust- even putting the brush in crevices. I was amazed at how easily the POR-15 flowed over the surface with my brush! I "restored" a 3.73/posi/disc axle (from an '84 trans am) for my car with the POR15, and it came out great. The starter kit had just enough POR15 to put two coats on the whole axle assembly, and it hasn't chipped due to rocks from the road.

Are you planning on doing just the rusted sections? (That's what I'd do.) Or are you planning to do the whole underbody? If you're doing just the rusted areas, you wouldn't need a lift. Jackstands might help, though.

Scott_92RS

I was planning on trying Zero Rust (www.zerorust.com)? I have been thinking about painting my entire underbody. Anyone have an idea as to how much paint I'll need to do that job? I was planning on painting the wheel wells with it also.

Buck268

Well, in reply to spartyon - I guess I do, its my first car, only had it 9 months - would love to love it, but i dunno... Parents say as long as I live here, cant have 2 cars - so that really cuts down on what I can do with her...
And about POR-15 - heard its great, the only reason I am worried is because my car WILL be JACKED, not lifted - so I was worried about clearences and getting it ALL OVER me!
Plus the underbody paint - i dunno if i said under coating or paint, but its paint - so i doutb it will just scrape off, and I have been told POR-15 dont like being put over other paints...
EDIT - I just rerad your post TomP, and I *was* going to do the whole thing. But maybe I could get away with just the rusted areas?? It is about half or so of the area under the floorpans...

orange rocket

Any true body man and myself will tell you to use OSPHO. It is green and comercial grade. This is what they use on planes!!! I originally came accross this stuff at the local Sherwin Williams auto store. They praised it and so i bought it and started going to restoration shops and asking what they used. Every single one said if you are serious about rust use OSPHO. This was with out me asking if it was good stuff. Well needless to say I am at the $4,500 mark on my restoration that is going to $14,000. This is a major job and I am sand blasting everything. What I am doing now is sand blasting and just incase spraying OSPHO where rust was. I made the fatal mistake of spraying some on rust and then trying to blast it. Good luck it was like epoxy that took rust and turned it to black metal. I had to sit there forever blasting it away. This stuff hands down is the best. I used a spay bottle with a small hose on the end to even spray the inside of my frame rails. Go ask around at shops and they will agree OSHPO is the absolute best

Scott_92RS

Can you buy this at Sherwin Williams still? How much does it cost? Is it a thick coating? Any pics of your restoration?

War_Eagle

OSPHO is the best!!!! I have used it for years and it is what most body shops use. It is a green liquid, that can be sprayed from a spray bottle into tight areas. I always wear latex gloves,a dust mask and glasses when useing it. I didn't know you could get it at the paint store, thats good though makes it even easier to get it then.

Black85TransAm

POR - 15.....

Belker

I'm gonna do my underbody with POR-15. I'll be using ramps under one end of the car and jackstands under the other end in my driveway. It should be a whole lotta super duper fun and excitement! (ugh!!!!) Anyway, I'd like my car be be around for years to come and guess it has to be done.

Buck268

Yup. Thats my mind frame, but I have a lot less enthusiasm (and I DID note your sarcasm!)

orange rocket

The only people that are gonna vote for something other than OSPHO are those who have never used it. It comes in a quart size plastic bottle, is green, and says OSPHO in white letters. The Sherwin Williams auto paint store here in Delray Beach sold it to me for $10.07:lala: S.W. part #for it is ZZ-OSPHO. This leads me to believe that if a store doesn't have it they can get it. I hope this is some help. If you want restoration pics and me using OSPHO email me at Camaro83Z28L69@aol.com and I will get em right over The stuff is great!!!! Just don't breathe it in or get it in your eyes, it's acid and burns ( I learned the hard way)

Buck268

Well, I have used POR-15 and I live it, but I wont rule out that OSPHO. I still dont really know what it is, just a rust converter like Naval Jelly? I am familiar with POR-15, but I want the best I can get! The reason I am stuck on POR-15 is because of how durable the finish is. What all is entailed with using OSPHO? I would guess clean the surface, apply OSPHO, wash off after so long, and prime?

orange rocket

It is explained on the bottle as a chemical reaction and not just a sealer/ cover. I know it is acidic since it burned my eyes and lungs and you can smell it. All they say to do is get the loose rust off and using a gun or spray bottle apply it in thin layers. If there is alot of rust a few layers are needed over a few hours. It needs 24hrs to completely dry and react. Since it is a acid stabilizer and not a so called converter it has no primer in it. You will be hard pressed to even tell where it was on metal not rusty. Simply give it a quick scuff with a gray scuff pad or 180 grit paper, whipe it with lacquer and prime it. There is absolutly no water used and has to be primed other wise it will just rust again.

Buck268

wow - OSPHO sounds pretty cool!! H eard Sherminn-Williams, but where else would this be available...I suppose I could call around...

I think maybe I'll use this crazy OSPHO stuff to get the rust off, then uses POR-15 as a top coat, because of its durablility??? ANy thoughts (it'll be a good while, but I like to figure out a plan as soon as I can!)

Randy82WS7

be glad yours isnt rusted through, in my case im not erven gonna try fixing it all, door shell is rotted through all long entire bottom and backside and floor has hole at least 5x5" in it, if i pull carpet back im afraid hole will grow, so im not pulling carpet back. door rotted out because all the drain plugs were still in the damn thing, i figure why is cuz is a Van Nuys car and I know Van Nuys gets hell of a lot less rain than here and anywhere else cept WA state, the door paid dearly for it after filling up with rain all the time and not draining thanks to the door glass wipers being trashed, no one cares to replace them when they crack and dont seal to glass.... just gona drive car till door rusts off or floor breaks apart or sell for whatever i can later.. i over paid for the car, dammit...

stop your rust now, or..........

TomP

So you still have to paint after using this stuff? Why is it "so much better" than POR15? You said those that criticize OSPHO haven't tried it- so what makes it better... besides the fact that it burns your lungs? I'm not trying to start an argument, but this reminds me of a "Camaro vs Firebird" debate- both products are great, do what they're supposed to do, and it's just personal preference. Hell, for all I know, you like OSPHO because you heard it's what the pro's use! I've heard that pro's use POR15, used it, and it's worked, so I'm sold on it. See?

orange rocket

So let me guess a base clear mix is better then a 2 part??? For starters correct me if I am wrong but why don't they make a primer/ base/ clear paint? The reason is that each one serves a purpose and does its job when applied properly. How can you fault a product for not doing it all? ask why they dont make one step paint why dont ya All I can and will say is shops that do restorations and body work in CT, MA, and FL all use OSPHO. So that is a 1,500mi spread there. Are these people that tell you they use Por-15 the same guys that told you to use total-prep or use rattle can primer on your car Maaco advice doesn't count!!! I don't use it because I heard they used it but rather I tried it skeptically and it worked out great. It must be doing something right if my sand blaster was having a hard time eating it away but yet rips right down to bare metal and strips all rust. So what is it doing wrong? Send me a little por-15 and I will test it and tell you if it alters the metal enough to be like epoxy. Try it and you will see that they use it on multi million dollar planes.

TomP

Wow, you're a bit defensive; I'm just asking for information. You still didn't tell me why the OSPHO is so much better than Por15. Is it because you don't know why? I haven't slammed OSPHO, I asked a question about it (why do you have to paint after using it?), yet, you're slamming POR-15, and can't tell me why.

Funny how, I'm seeing, that after topcoating this OSPHO, the topcoat can still chip. POR-15 is chip proof. So why would I use OSPHO? Why would I sandblast my POR15? I don't drive through sandstorms. Do you?

Plus, you don't know much about POR-15, do you? It is a three part system. You have a cleaner, then a zinc coating, and then the POR-15. Did you ever use the stuff? I assume you have, because you are the expert on why OSPHO is better than POR15. So I'm still waiting for the reasons why OSPHO is better than POR15, and why we absolutely should use OSPHO instead. (I'm not holding my breath either, no offense.)

Also, you seem to be VERY upset that I use total-prep and rattle-can primer! And I think it infuriates you that I went to Maaco! Why? Amazingly enough, my car's paint is still holding on. Does that offend you? If you say those two chemicals suck, or that every Maaco sucks, then you're obviously wrong. Either that, or I'm an amazing man, and made the stuff work. Haha, and if it's any of these three reasons, then you're opinions are just unfounded opinions, and have no basis in fact. Sure, "What real body shop uses rattle can primer?" None. Does it work? Yes. What's the problem? Did you know a 2.8 MPFI runs just as well as a 5.7 TPI? It's not as fast, but both engines can power the f-body forward, and backward, and for many miles. Hmm...

erictheviking

Don't you guys forget about blasting cavity wax in all the inaccessible areas like box sections etc.Does a great job of keeping away moisture and therefore rust.

Dan94GT

ospho is phosphoric acid. I just picked up a bottle at ace hardware. It was on sale the quart was $6 and change compared to the 10 whatever regular. Havent used it yet. Bought it uz it was on sale.