Just had 8 pt. roll bar installed.
05-28-2002, 05:14 PM
#53
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Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Wow! 
That turned out really nice! I like how you retained the stock frame rails and let it go at that. Reminds me of an SSO built NMRA Mustang. Stock rails but 4 links. I could see going to something like that if I was going to be running 7.80's in the 1/4 mile.
Good luck man! Sounds like you are on the right track!
That turned out really nice! I like how you retained the stock frame rails and let it go at that. Reminds me of an SSO built NMRA Mustang. Stock rails but 4 links. I could see going to something like that if I was going to be running 7.80's in the 1/4 mile.
Good luck man! Sounds like you are on the right track!
05-28-2002, 06:48 PM
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bjm323
Thanks for taking the time to take more pics and not forgetting about us. That is one sweet job there. I may be going that route if I can find a convert IROC to cruise around in and make my Z28 a full time track car like yours. The sheetmetal job on the interior is nice too.
Jay
Thanks for taking the time to take more pics and not forgetting about us. That is one sweet job there. I may be going that route if I can find a convert IROC to cruise around in and make my Z28 a full time track car like yours. The sheetmetal job on the interior is nice too.
Jay
08-22-2002, 08:00 PM
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
Digitalman,
did you have to modify the sidebars in order to mount them so much lower? also, would a 6'1" guy be able to get the seat all the way back and reclined comfortably to drive every day with the cross bar? did you leave the back seats in? thanks.
did you have to modify the sidebars in order to mount them so much lower? also, would a 6'1" guy be able to get the seat all the way back and reclined comfortably to drive every day with the cross bar? did you leave the back seats in? thanks.
Last edited by Ukraine Train; 08-22-2002 at 08:02 PM.
09-04-2002, 10:11 PM
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by JAY4SPEED
If you notice in my pics, the rear bars go straight to the hatch floor. I had cut my rear seat mounts out and gotten rid of the rear seats. There was no clearance problems with rear seats so we modified the kit to go straight to the rear spring perches for extra rigidity.
If you notice in my pics, the rear bars go straight to the hatch floor. I had cut my rear seat mounts out and gotten rid of the rear seats. There was no clearance problems with rear seats so we modified the kit to go straight to the rear spring perches for extra rigidity.
on the S&W website they have a "Pro/Street rear runner package - Pro/Street rear runners go thru shelf & allow use of back seat" that's $40 additional to the bar, did you order that or will the regular bar clear the back seats? what do they mean by thru shelf? thanks.
09-06-2002, 12:39 AM
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Hi sorry it took so long to reply:
The kit that I purchased from S&W race cars have rear bars that curve around the top of the rear seats. See RYN28's picture of the rear on the first page of this thread his roll bar is not a S&W unit but you'll get the idea. This shows exactly what I was talking about. The bars curve down. In my case, since I was not going to install my rear seats again, he just made a straight shot to the rear {hump} right above where the rear springs mount. If I tried to install rear seats now the bars would pass right though the seat tops is what i'm trying to say in a nutshell.
I think what they are trying to describe on SSM's website, on a typical car {non hatchback} there is a rear package shelf right at the rear window. It sounds like they are using a generic body style {non hatchback} for a description. The rear down tubes would pass through that rear package shelf straight to the trunk floor allowing you to use the back seat. Why they put this description in for an Fbody, I have no idea.
On the S&W kit, they give an option for downtubes that goto the front of the car {the ones that pass between the seat and the door} that are specially bent for the armrests. I did pay extra for those. The stock kit will not clear the armrests.
On a side note: I can offer a bit of advice from expierience. A roll cage should be one of the last things that you install in your car. I've recently put carpet in and cut it around the bars and it was a pain in the @ss. Removing and installing the seats were not fun leaning over those bars. I have put all my trim panels back in but I'm not finished yet with trim install. I'll post pics when I get it presentable. Also, with the kit that I have, don't even think about keeping your rear seats. I couldn't barely climb into the back to paint the bars with my front seats removed! Anyway just my opinion......
Hope this helps you and if i can help any further, just let me know!
The kit that I purchased from S&W race cars have rear bars that curve around the top of the rear seats. See RYN28's picture of the rear on the first page of this thread his roll bar is not a S&W unit but you'll get the idea. This shows exactly what I was talking about. The bars curve down. In my case, since I was not going to install my rear seats again, he just made a straight shot to the rear {hump} right above where the rear springs mount. If I tried to install rear seats now the bars would pass right though the seat tops is what i'm trying to say in a nutshell.
I think what they are trying to describe on SSM's website, on a typical car {non hatchback} there is a rear package shelf right at the rear window. It sounds like they are using a generic body style {non hatchback} for a description. The rear down tubes would pass through that rear package shelf straight to the trunk floor allowing you to use the back seat. Why they put this description in for an Fbody, I have no idea.
On the S&W kit, they give an option for downtubes that goto the front of the car {the ones that pass between the seat and the door} that are specially bent for the armrests. I did pay extra for those. The stock kit will not clear the armrests.
On a side note: I can offer a bit of advice from expierience. A roll cage should be one of the last things that you install in your car. I've recently put carpet in and cut it around the bars and it was a pain in the @ss. Removing and installing the seats were not fun leaning over those bars. I have put all my trim panels back in but I'm not finished yet with trim install. I'll post pics when I get it presentable. Also, with the kit that I have, don't even think about keeping your rear seats. I couldn't barely climb into the back to paint the bars with my front seats removed! Anyway just my opinion......
Hope this helps you and if i can help any further, just let me know!
Last edited by JAY4SPEED; 09-06-2002 at 12:42 AM.
09-06-2002, 07:45 PM
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gimme gimme i want..lol j/k. those are nice cages
hey does anyone know if the 8pt. cages the Jegster cages from jegs. becuz its only 150 bucks for an 8pth cage and then i plan on gettin kenny brown subframe connectors and then welded together, the cage and subframe connectors that is.
also guido how hard was it to put in the front part of ur cage that ties the subframe to the cage? would u think a chassie shop beable to do that?
hey does anyone know if the 8pt. cages the Jegster cages from jegs. becuz its only 150 bucks for an 8pth cage and then i plan on gettin kenny brown subframe connectors and then welded together, the cage and subframe connectors that is. also guido how hard was it to put in the front part of ur cage that ties the subframe to the cage? would u think a chassie shop beable to do that?
09-07-2002, 06:05 PM
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Has anyone had their roll cages painted the color of their car? When i need one i would like to get it my color with a pearl in it. Does anyone have any pictures of them painted? Very nice JAY4SPEED!
09-14-2002, 11:47 PM
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Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
For the guys with S&W bars....
I got mine in from them (8pt) and I'm a bit confused. The rear brace bars are waaay to long so you'd think it's 'cut to length' but it's fish mouthed on the end that goes to the main hoop. So i'm thinking if they know it's going to be too long, why would they fish mouth it? Wich makes me think they sent me the wrong one. Also, my main hoop seems like it's too wide, it will not fit between the boxed part of the floor into the area where your feet would be if you were sitting in the back seat. It will however fit up on the higher part of the floor where the rear seat mounts but then it would be too far back. I'm going to call them Monday and see what's up. If one of you guys could give me the outside/inside widths of your main hoops where the bars are vertical (bottom half) I would really appreciate it. Did you guys put the main hoop down into the lower part of the floor or up on the same level that the rear seat mounts? Looks like Jay's is the former. I'll get some pics tomorrow, too frustrated to go out right now.
I got mine in from them (8pt) and I'm a bit confused. The rear brace bars are waaay to long so you'd think it's 'cut to length' but it's fish mouthed on the end that goes to the main hoop. So i'm thinking if they know it's going to be too long, why would they fish mouth it? Wich makes me think they sent me the wrong one. Also, my main hoop seems like it's too wide, it will not fit between the boxed part of the floor into the area where your feet would be if you were sitting in the back seat. It will however fit up on the higher part of the floor where the rear seat mounts but then it would be too far back. I'm going to call them Monday and see what's up. If one of you guys could give me the outside/inside widths of your main hoops where the bars are vertical (bottom half) I would really appreciate it. Did you guys put the main hoop down into the lower part of the floor or up on the same level that the rear seat mounts? Looks like Jay's is the former. I'll get some pics tomorrow, too frustrated to go out right now.
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