KiLLJ0Y

anyone have info on how to hook up or use a 5 point seat harness with stock seats? anyone have it done? anyone have pics and part#'s and instructions if they have it done?



Dave Fisher
Orange CA

KiLLJ0Y

so no one has this?

JAY4SPEED

I'm sure you know but the most common 5 point harness set up is with a roll bar installed. I would think you would need long straps to bolt to the floor behind the seat without a cross bar. My Camaro is in the frame shop as we speak and is getting a 8 point cage welded in. I have RCI racing bucket seats which have the holes installed for over the shoulder harnesses. I am having tabs welded to the cross bar in which to mount the harnesses for the front seats. I haven't yet seen harnesses installed without a rollbar or cage. Thats not saying it can't be done tho. Good luck! Wish I could be more helpfull.

willdog666

do you want the 5 point for looks? or for safety? check out summit they have fake racing belts that'll look cool but are not intended for drag-racing. a five point sounds like a pain in the *** if this is for a daily driver. i think u need a cage 2 but i'm not sure.

russ84HO

at corbeau.com they have harnesses that come in 3 or 4 point, and they bolt in the location of the factory seat belts. They also buckle like a normal seat belt. I am about to order some, not that I really need them, I just like the way they look.

russ

Dewey316

it is actualy NOT safe to install 4 or 5 point harnesses without a bar. they are supposed to be installed witht he point that they mount to (upper) close to level (i think it is withing 4" of your shoulders) otherwise in a wreck, they harnesses will actualy compress your spine, and can cause seriouse injury.

so if you are after the saftey factor, do it right if you just want that "race car" look, get something liek the summit or corbaeu kit that is still safe, and just looks like the harness look.

KeithO

I put in a 5-point harness for autocrossing. As I learned (and probably you have found), the lack of a separate headrest makes selection limited. In my case I bought on where the over-the-head/shoulder straps for a "Y" and join to one belt. This single belt then goes to the rear, driver's side floor and bolts to an SCCA-approved plate. The problem is getting a blet system with a single belt that is long enough.

I bought the "G Force Racing" belt at www.racerwholesale.com that has the extra long belt as described above. It was a snap to install and keeps me planted in hard corning. Problem is, you can't reach the radio, etc once you're strapped in.

KeithO

I just checked my records. The Racer Wholesale part number was GF-5400 for this belt. It appears that they do not have this specific belt anymore. If you are interested in this, you can call them with this part number and see what they have as an alternative.

Don't forget to buy the mounting plate! P/N: SPA-100

Ukraine Train

keithO,

where did you bolt the side and anti-submarine straps to? do you have to weld a plate to the floor to make a mount?

KeithO

Ahhh... interesting that you would revive this post. I just re-installed the same harness Saturday in my "new" 98 Z28, since I sold my IROC.

The harness described has 4 attachment points:
1) left
2) right
3) Single overhead attachment that "y"s out to go over each shoulder
4) Submarine.

First, I dumped the submarine. The reason is that I do not have a roll bar/cage and if I flip the car I do not want my harness to prevent me from scrunching down under the steering wheel as the roof collapses. T-top car's aren't all that strong.

Now, the center attachment bolt is mounted dead-center in the middle of the driver's side rear passenger floor. In my installation, I used a backing plate both on the interior side of the floor pan and the exterior. I mainly used the interior plate to make it look nice.

The lefts and rights are mounted symetrically on either side of the center attachment point on the driver's side rear passenger floor. The lefts and rights are both heavy-duty eye bolts that poke up over the carpeting that are pushed though a hole I drilled through the rear passenger floor pan. The other end of the eye bolt is threaded and pokes down through the floor pan to the outside of the car. On the outside of the car, I installed a backing plate then threaded a bolt and lock washer to snug the backing plate to the floor pan. The belts are a quick-disconnect type that latch on/off the eye bolts.

Normally, all of the belts are just sitting on the rear floor. When I want to use them, I bring the shoulder piece up-on-over the seat and pull the side belts around the seat. Latch, cinch and go. Worked great Sunday at my autocross (also took the FS championship Sunday - wooho!)

2 gotchas on f-bodies:
1) When you drill through the floorboards, the insulation get bound up on the drill bit. In my case, I tried to power through an now I have NO insulating material on the driver's side rear floor pan. Ooops.
2) The floor pan under the car is not flat. It has ridges that make mounting the backing plates look like crap. I plan to go back and flatten these ridges to make the plates fit more flush. For now, it just looks like crap.

I can take some pictures if you like.

Ukraine Train

thanks! much appreciated

scauffiel

By all means, please do.

S.

KeithO

I'll do it this evening when I get home. ...like I said, the backing plates currently look like crap but you'll get the idea...

KeithO

This is what the harness looks like in the car:

KeithO

This is what it looks like on the rear driver's side floor:

KeithO

This is what the backing plates look like under the car (tilt your head to the right - sorry):

Vettetrax

awesome dude! i'm going to think about doing that myself now

BAK12484

Technically you are supposed to have the shoulder straps mounted as horozontal as possible. I think I heard the absolute MAX is a 45* angle. Most companies make two types of shoulder straps... a 48" set that attaches to a rollbar/cage w/ either brackets or wrapping around and attaching back on itself (setup in my car). They also make 75" (i believe thats the right length) straps that you can connect to your floor, or anywhere in the rear seat. As KeithO shows in the pictures, you want a backing plate underneath the floorpans for support.

I currently have a 5-point Sabelt (Sparco) setup in my car and it is my daily driver.... not much of a pain at all in putting on and taking off...then agan it is the camlock design, so you just have to press the ends into the main cam, then just twist the handle to release. Once I get some more cash I am planning on buying a whole new set of belts as mine are about 4 years old (supposed to replace every 2-3), and was thinking of going to a 6-point setup instead. The anti-sub belt still uses the same single connector, but has a small bar that spreads out the two straps an inch or two. I figure this would be a bit better in case of an accident... have some space between the belts so my privates don't get squished ()

KeithO

Yeah, I suppose I need to point out to a few things to be complete:

1) Statements about about the location of the upper belts are correct - they should be mounted higher, like on a roll bar or harness bar. The reason that I am not concerned about it is that this harness was not installed for safety. It was installed to keep me from sliding around in the seat during autocrosses and road racing course track days. Having said all of that, using the fulcrum point of the seat is still better than some of the other belt systems that latch into the rear seat belt buckles (in my opinion). And this is about half the price of those systems.
2) I do not use this on the street. I have retained the stock belts for street use.
3) The use of the backing plates is not necessary if you are doing this for looks. However, the plates are necessary if you don't want to get flagged in tech on track days.

Odyssey

Or he could make easy and rotate the pictures instead of us have to to tilt our heads ... lol