90CamaroRSGuy16

Hey


I was wondering, when you have a car painted, are they sandblasted down to the metal, reprimed, then painted. Or are they just sanded and repainted, or both??? What would the cost be for both? which is better, and why??? Thanks

-Zach

Blue502

We used a combination of both on my car when we repainted it. We took the whole exterior down to bare. Blasting was done mainly on the fiberglass parts. As to cost, I'm not sure, it was just one part of the whole, and a minor one at that. Sanding metal is usually easier and less messy than blasting. And chemical stripper can come back to haunt you by destroying your new paint if you don't get it out of all the nooks and crannies, so I think it is better to say away from it unless you really need to use it.

83firebirdS/E

If you have a lot of rust then you should sand blast the rust. Other wise stripping it is good enough. When you sand blast the sand gets every where!

mcconahay37

iTrader: (3)

If you have the option, go with media blasting. It's easier on the metal and supposedly leaves less material in the car. Either way, you'l most likely be finding sand or media in your car for years. You only need to do it if you have real bad rust. Otherwise you don't need to go to the bare metal.

Ward

iTrader: (1)

Is media blasting the same thing as soda blasting?

Jza

nevermind

90CamaroRSGuy16

I don't have any rust, I just want to make sure that the paint will stick. I think the paint on the car now is orginal. It's almost a dirty white color and the clearcoat is coming off badly. Can I sand it myself? With a powersander, or will that hurt the car? Will painting it a different color than it was stock hurt the value?

thanks

Blue502

Media blasting usually uses either glass beads or walnut shells. I should have stated in my post above that we used media, not sand on the fiberglass. NEVER sandblast fiberglass, you'll be really sorry. I had my fiberglass done by a place that specializes in doing that, and they used a specialized media.

90CamaroRSGuy, when you say powersander I hope you mean a DA sander. If so the answer is yes. Stay away from die grinders and other high speed sanders unless you are trying to remove metal. Painting a different color may or may not make a difference at resale, depends on the buyer, and whether or not your car is modified or stock, or if it is a rare model.

ploegi

Stripping the car down to bare metal is not necessary for a repaint. In all reality, if you just scuff up the paint that is there, (thus, removing the loose stuff, rust, etc.) you will get a better quality paint job. The factory paint sticks extremely well (well, except for a few years when they were having some problems......)

In any case, sandblasting will also tend to heat, and possibly warp the sheetmetal.... (yep, been there, done that......)

HamsterOnaMission

Also, if you take it down to bare metal, you have to go through some sort of preping process, involving some chemicals and stuff, to help the primer stick

82camaro

A DA with 320 paper to start with. The DA makes quick work of most of the car. The nooks and stuff will have to be done by hand. All the paint needs to stick is a clean scuffed surface. Spot prime any areas that that are bare metal after sanding. Red Spot and Glazing putty works excellent for any chips. Final scuffing with a red scotchbrite pad works excellent. Wipe down the car with some type of prep solvent. Wipe it down with tack rags and have a good friend shoot some paint. I did this to my 91 GMC Jimmy 4dr 2wd just last week(except I added rear quarters and both rocker panels). It roughly the same thing I did to my 82 about 5 years ago. I'm sure I skipped some steps in there. The evening of the 4th day I drove it home painted. It was my first experience with a plasma cutter--man is that thing slick. I'll post some pics of the 91 Jimmy when the lowering springs and blocks are installed, and the pin stipes are on, and some other accessories.