Hi everyone, I have a paint problem that just came to my attention this weekend.

My 87 IROC Z28 is a performance project car that I first bought in 98 and built (first stage)in 99. I do not take it out in anything but warm sunny weather. Living here in the rain belt of NW Oregon, it spends about 5 months each winter stored under a nice soft custom car cover inside my garage. I do back it out once a month or so to warm up the engine and just air it out for a minute, before tucking it back away till spring.

This weekend when peeling off the car cover I was alarmed to find two areas of the red paint discolored with what looks like oxidization. It's rosettes and a scattering of tiny specs of silvery staining, not on the surface, but under it. It's as if it's under the wax. I tried some cleaning wax to see if it would take the stains off but no luck. During the summer, I wash the car once or twice a week at the car wash, using just the spray wand to wash it, and apply their liquid wax. I really just started washing it this way the summer before last.

It could be that the car was still moist from a few drops of rain hitting it the last time I put it away after running it for a while. I use a towel to dry it if it gets wet like that but I may not have gotten it completely dry.

First, my question is how to remove the staining? Should I use a wax stripper to remove the wax, then polish and rewax? Should I use some 1500 grit wet paper to clean it, then polish and wax? Would a rubbing compound work to get through the wax and remove the stains? I've had mixed success in the past with rubbing compound. How about having it buffed out? My second question is, what caused this? Could it be from from moisture trapped under the cover? I have had this cover and treated the car the same way every winter for years now. Never had this happen before.

I plan to take it by my friends body shop as soon as I bring it out of storage this spring and see what he thinks of it. I just don't want to wait til then to know what the problem is. If this oxidization starts to spread it will really hurt the car's appearance. It's got me stressed out right now.
I'm planning to have the body cleaned up and repainted, once I complete the current series of performance refreshments, which should be about 3 years. The body was perfect when I bought it. Since then it has suffered a few minor bumps and bruises. It still looks pretty sharp shined up.

 

Not sure what kind of paint your dealing with there whether it is BC/CC or single stage enamel. If it is original it will be BC/CC. All third-gens 86 and up were. There are some products that can help you out regardless. I was a professional detailer in my youth, and can tell you this, If the oxidation is too deep on either type you can hide it to a certain extent but it will need spot painted. Single stage paint is more forgiving as it can be wet sanded and polished out. Clear coated cars not so much because the oxidation usually ruins the clear coat first.
Hiding (BC/CC) or repairing (single stage) will require the same approach.
You will need some 2000 grit paper, a high speed buffer with a WOOL pad and a black foam finishing pad for the same buffer. There will be various opinions on what type of polish to use, but Im going to point you in a direction that flat out does the best job in my experience. It is what allot of pro detailers and body shops have used for decades. Power Pak. It can only be bought by the gallon and is not available in stores. Only body shop supply stores, or you can order it online and have it delivered to your door. It should last you a very long time as it comes by the gallon for 49.00. see link below...
http://www.wds-usa.com/product_p/a00403.htm
lightly wet sand, buff with the wool pad, buff with the black foam pad, and seal it with a good sealer wax of your choice.

 

Start with some clay bar in one of the areas and see what it looks like after that. It will remove the wax and most contaminants along with some oxidation.


Its really a procedure that should be done every so often over the entire car if your using wax .

 

Thanks DonW and Ron U.S.M.C. for your replies. I didn't know that the factory paint is BC/CC. That does change things doesn't it. I really hope that the oxidization isn't under the clear, or didn't ruin the clear. This kind of thing has never happened as long as I've been storing the car this way, which is about 14 years. I know this custom cover is thicker and more moisture resistant than the cover I used to use. While that is generally a good thing, I suppose it isn't so great if moisture gets trapped under it.

The car was repainted, in OE color, before I bought it. Not an awesome job. The overall paint looks great, but they didn't do the jambs and you can see the age difference. Keeping it inside when not in use has probably helped preserve the paint as it is. I assume that the repaint was also 2 stage.

I did some research on the web yesterday and I see that cleaning and rewaxing is recommended twice a year. I have been lazy and getting away with it. Now it looks like I'm going to have to get busy if I have any hope of saving this paint.

I may also pull it out of storage early this year for a trip to the body shop. Let my friend there look at it and see if he can save it. This kind of thing makes me nervous. I don't want to make things worse.

 

Ask the shop what they think about Synthetic Polymers/Sealant being used as apposed to wax and products containing wax.

My paint is close to 10 years old and has never had any natural wax or wax products on it.

Just Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax (says wax but is totally Synthetic)
= http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...ate-wax-paste/
And Race Glaze Polish and Sealant once a year to remove it and start all over.
= http://raceglaze.net/
Not only do these products protect extremely well it only needs to be re applied every 4 months and then totally removed once a year with the Race Glaze Product. That's for a DD like mine.

 

Ron, your paint is gorgeous. It makes me envious. It's a goal for me to work towards. As soon as I'm done with the refresh of my 15 year old performance build, I'll start saving towards the body work.

I'm going to work this weekend at curing the oxidization. I'm a little worried because this has never happened to the car before and it happened while the car was stored inside the garage, not in the sun. I'm worried that this was caused by moisture trapped under the cover that ate into the paint like acid. I hope it's not under the clear coat. Aside from trying to fix the current problem, I want to make sure this doesn't happen again. From now on, in addition to keeping the car well protected with a polymer over coat, I'll make sure the car is completely dry before I put the cover on.

Once I get the oxidization fixed, if I can, then I'll polish and re-coat with Meguiar's synthetic polymer.

 

I swear by clay bars. You wouldn't hurt anything using rubbing compound gently on it. take your time

 

Once you start to use Synthetics you would want to stay away from wax and products that contain wax.
Synthetic polymers/sealants are a system all of there own.


Here's the soap I use, the special drying towel, and a California Duster that is indispensable.
The Duster has paraffin wax in the cotton strands but it simply glides over the car picking up the dust. It does not leave wax on the car.
I live near a truck depot that kicks up dust so I use it before each drive. Only takes a second or two and the car shines like glass.
Link to soap = http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...itioner-1-gal/

California Duster = http://www.calcarduster.com/originalduster.asp

The Absorber drying towel = All of these products can be found at Walmart or local auto parts stores.

 

I picked up a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound last night at NAPA. They didn't have any synthetic wax at all, in any brand. That was disappointing. I'll find some this weekend. I'm anxious to try this new compound. From the label it sounds like it might be pretty good. I'll also pick up some lighter polish/cleaner to use in 4 months when I'm due to wax again.

I'm hopeful that between the compound and poly wax, I can save my paint and prevent this from happening again.

 

I looked up the compound you bought and it says "safe to use in auto body environment". I believe that means its totally synthetic.


The best thing to do is call Meguiar's at 1-800-347-5700 with questions.
They know there stuff when it comes to there products and about car care.

 

Thanks again Ron, I will give Meguiar's a call. The labeling of the Ultimate Compound is pretty impressive. It claims to obsolete all other compounds. I'll give it a try for this oxidization but I still plan to get their finer polish for regular maintenance.

EDIT: On Meguiar's website, I see they have an Ultimate Polish Glaze for pre-wax cleaning. That sounds like the right stuff for regular maintenance.

 

Okay, Just got back from NAPA. I picked up a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate liquid wax. It's the same product as the Ultimate paste wax, just in a bottle. Looks like it should work fine.

They didn't have the Ultimate Polish. I re-read the Ultimate Compound bottle and the label says to follow with wax. I still want to use a lighter, less aggressive pre-wax cleaner for regular maintenance. But since I haven't polished the car ever, and haven't really waxed it in years, I think this time around the Ultimate Compound will be good.

 

Now I'm really stumped. I got home from work early today and took a stab at fixing my paint. I worked at the worst spot for several minutes, retreating the Terry cloth several times with compound. I ended up with a beautiful glossy surface with this discoloration under it. This stuff really is in the paint under the clear coat. I took some pictures of it and I'll try to post them. I don't know what to do now. How did this happen? Was it moisture trapped under the cover?

 

The little dots around the main mark looks like "splatter" Like something was dropped on the area before paint was applied

Once you start using synthetics that all you want to use, forever.

The polish you have would take the place of the Race Glaze Polish if that what you want to do.

The thing is, its best to let the "Ultimate Wax"(synthetic) you have "layer".
You could even apply two very thin coats the first time and then one coat the second time, third time if you want.


Then only remove it once a year with the polish and start over with the wax again.
Its not necessary or even best for the car to strip it off before each application.


When you apply the synthetic wax you only use a very thin coat. To the point you can barley see it going on. When it dry's it will haze and make it easer to see fore removal. I use one micro fiber towel to remove most of the product then wipe it off with a cleaner microfiber towel to get the rest. Just shake the towels out every once and a while away from the car.

 

The entire discoloration is so strange. That area was fine when the car was put away for the winter. I may have to get the hood and windshield surround painted to fix it.

The compound seems to work really well as a polish. The Ultimate liquid even came with a very nice micro fiber towel along with the foam applicator.