Well, we repainted the car AGAIN this saturday (too many low spots on the first job, so we decided to do it again), and now its gonna need to be buffed. The paint laid down flatter, but its still got some orange peel issues. We plan on wet sanding the entire car with about 2000 grit and buffing it all out. Only problem is i have no idea what to use for buffing compound. So could someone point in the right direction as to what i should be using? Im going to buy one of those professional polisher/buffers to apply it all with.

One more thing, does anyone know where i can get the IROC-Z door decals, and Z28 emblems for the GFX? I found them in Year One, but there a bit on the expensive side. is there anywhere cheaper?

Oh yeah, what about the door guard strip things? I want the wide ones that they started using in 88?, i don't like the narrow ones that came on the 86's. I couldn't find those anywhere, not even in Year One.

In case it matters at all, we were using Urethane paint, with a layer of clear coat on top.

Thanks,
Eric

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My 1986 Z2814.59@95.6

GM350, T-5, 3.23's, lots of go fast goodies, 4th gen Firebird interior etc...
85 IROC w/ 1364 miles! no times yet, just got it to start.

You'll always find what you've lost in the last place you look

R.I.P Dale Earnhardt

Moderator at: www.generation-3.com

 

i have z28 emblems for the gfx, email me if you're interested. i'll go check, but i think they're in pretty good shape. but since my car is not a z28, i don't want them on my car.

 

sent you mail diabolical.

thanks,
Eric

 

Use the Zaino buffering compound with the polisher but keep the speed down on it. You mihght even want to start with some 3M compound....

------------------
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try www.phoenixgraphix.com, I'm not sure if they have the decals you want, but worth a try

 

Hmmm, the page doesn't seem to want to load. Are you sure thats the right address?

Eric

EDIT: nevermind i got it. Your comma got included in the address. I just looked, they have them, but they're the same price as Year One. Owell, thanks anyway



[This message has been edited by zupmanZ28 (edited November 18, 2001).]

 

TTT

still looking for places to find those bump strips, anyone know? Am i gonna have to go to GM for these? IF so i might just leave them off.

Eric

 

Buffing is better lft to the professionals, but it is a good corner to cut, if cost is an issue. You probably want to read up on techniques. Car Craft had an article and may be on their website. Also, you may want to put on 5-7 coats of clear before hand, because you do run the risk of burning throught the paint, and the more you can buff the better it comes out. Remember, it is an art, and a pro needs like 2 months of training, so you wont learn overnight.

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Colin Finkle (Temp. Registration)
'87 Camaro Sport Coupe, 305 V8

 

well guys i am never a person to brag.. but i wetsand and buff cars more than 40 hours a week.

its my job.

anyways..

at work we use two (yes lil bit thicker) layers of clear (dupont V7500)(lays better) on top of our base coats.
and i have only burned through on one car.

now i do have to agree with letting professionals like myself do the buffing if you want NO peel at all.
and dont sand the car down and leave it with open pores. if you do it will buff out like a rock.
wetsand it with 1500-2000 either or. i usually use both 1500 first and cross cut with 2000. then use
3M perfect II Rubbing compound 5974 and no matter what dont get perfect it III rubbing compound it has a glaze in it and it will mask some of the scratches.
also get some perfect it III(yes three) MACHINE GLAZE and a foam pad. this is what you need to use once you get done buffing.

then i clean the car and hand glaze it. its perfect now.

and if you buff it before you assemble it you can get closer to the handles and accesories.
and dont wait too long to buff it. no more than 4-5 days. or it will have dried almost too much. it will still buff out but just not as nice and easy.

if you have any questions email me at jayc003@hotmail.com
i will get all the #s tomorrow at work

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Jarrad
United States ARMY Military Police Officer 339th Division


formerly owned:
1990 IROC-Z L98

 

RARE-ROC,
thanks for the advice. My father used to paint cars for a living but has been out of it for about 15 years so he's a little rusty on things, hence this post. Ill probably be doing most of the buffing, but under close supervision from him. Im gonna look into all these compounds this weekend, and the car's already in pieces so that makes it that much better.

Thanks, and keep the suggstions coming, the more the better.
Eric

------------------
My 1986 Z2814.59@95.6

GM350, T-5, 3.23's, lots of go fast goodies, 4th gen Firebird interior etc...
85 IROC w/ 1364 miles! no times yet, just got it to start.

You'll always find what you've lost in the last place you look

R.I.P Dale Earnhardt

Moderator at: www.generation-3.com

[This message has been edited by zupmanZ28 (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

For the most part I'd have to firmly agree with Rare-Roc. I use Perfect it II all the time and I love the stuff. I don't think that you can go wrong with it. After wet sanding with either 800,1000, 1500, 2000, or all, I hit it with Perfect it II rubbing compound,(the brown stuff) and a slower speed on the buffer. Then use Perfect it II Polishing compound,(the white stuff) at a higher rpm. The speed is determined mainly by the temp. of paint. I've never used any Zaino products, but I hear that they are good too. I wouldn't wax the car for around three months, seeing how the wether is. The sovents in the paint need to completely evaporate, or you'll have a hazy finish.

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4