SSC

So Ive cheaped out and decided hey why not do it myself?

Questions:

1. All the tint Ive seen claims to be Limo tint. Some is 30% "UV" and some is 5% "UV" according to the tech artical window tinting 101, Limo is the darkest tint. Where does that UV rating come in as far as darker?

2. Is it worth while to get a tint kit,$8.99?

Thanks!
SSC

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85 Camaro, 355/400 "drag car" current DD 13.1@ 101mph on its last season run.
Plans: Possibly add N20 for next season.
82 Firbird, rebuilt 355 for it and slaped a 700r4 in. The 700r4 crapped out so back to the tb350

Tom84L69

You and i have both seen bubbled up and purple window tints, those are most likely the people who have done it themselves. I would take it to Ziebart or someone professional and have them do it.

There's a reason it's more expensive, it looks better.



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84 Z28 L69. 5 speed with 3.73 posi (broken)Ported heads, intake, 10:1 comp. 230/230 .480 lift cam @.050" w/108 LSA

Triumph Spitfire SCCA roadracer. 1.1 liter 4cyl w/ 14:1 comp.
Outcorners anything!

SSC

Yea this is true and the purple bubble crap looks ugly.

I had tinted the rear window of my truck a while back and it looked good but got a rock thrown through it so it did last a 2 years. Im just weary about tinting the high use windows on the fbird.

Any more comments would be appreciated.
SSC

Edit I used windex to apply the tint of the truck and a bondo tool wrapped in a paper towl so I think if I were to use a kit it would come out fairly good.

[This message has been edited by SSC (edited November 15, 2001).]

redbird_400

Not only does the purple bubble tint look bad it smells like a$$ when it bakes in the sun. When I bought my car someone had it in there and Damn it makes the whole car look and smell like crap. If I were you I would take it in a get a done by a pro. They might have some warrenty in case it does bubble up. What am I talking about I still dont have tint on my car, Im takeing mine in as soon as a get a free pay check.

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89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb or 350.

RSpeed

The ammonia in Windex breaks down the dye and the adhesive in window films.Use a solution of soap and water to apply the film. A spray bottle with a few drops of dishwashing liquid mixed in water works very well. And the most important thing to remember when applying window film is to make sure the glass is completely dirt free.The smallest speck of dirt will show up in window tint. Also,to avoid your window tint from turning purple later,use a non-dyed type of film. Dyed films turn purple becuase the sun fades the dye used to tint the film. Spend a few more dollars and get what is called a titanium based film,which uses a process called "sputtering" to tint the film.Instead of the film being dyed,it is actually layered with metal particles to give the film it's tint.So there is no dye for the sun to fade.You will probably have to go to a tint shop to get this stuff, and it will cost more,but it usually garaunteed for a lifetime against fading to that nasty purple color,among other things.

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'91 RS, 375hp 350
New paint-solid black
ROH Snyper wheels-17x9 wrapped in 275/40/17
ASCD SS hood, High-rise Z-28 spoiler,shaved handles/antenna,
Hooker super comp 1 3/4" headers,dual 3" exhaust,two 1-chamber Flomasters,machined hi-perf GM heads,Holley double pumper 650 w/50cc pumps,Power Plus 360* high rise aluminum intake,Edelbrock Elite valve covers/14x4" open air cleaner,Mallory AFPR,Proform HI-perf HEI disributer with curve kit,Crane 292 cam,Eibach Sportline springs,KYB struts/shocks,completely rebuilt steering linkage,36/24mm sway bars,12.7 steering box,wonderbar,145 gauge cluster,Auto meter gauges,dual guage A-pillar pods,180* thermostat,dual push/pull cooling fans.
75-125 shot NOS system planned.

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