Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Thats how it was with mine, Its been prepped and primed. I just layed it over it and it looked good and would be good for those who want a temp job to get it out.

Orinackra

that was my thought. It's just temporary. I dont think I'd do it as a permanent thing. That was the exact paint I used, and yours came out pretty good Carlos. I dont blame you for backing out. I almost did too, but I said f it.

kent624

ive always wanted to know - what would it look like if you wax satin black, would it get shiny or stay the same?

spade

iTrader: (3)

sk8r fer life

just finished my Iroc hood in flat black and it'll be going on my bright red camaro today, hopefully. I'll post a pic later...still undecided if I want the whole car black yet, for 20 yrs old the paint I have is in awesome shape so IDK, we'll see.
Tim

Orinackra

It shines up. I tried that on a small spot on mine. It doesnt shine up alot, and actually ends up looking REALLY bad. Brings out the splotches, streaks etc.

krazefbird

Well, seeing all this "flat paint" has me very intrigued and actually somewhat inspired. I would really like to get a paint job but any paint shop wants 4-5k for what I want to do. I think y'alls flat paint jobs look great in the pictures and for the cost I think it is an amazing improvement. So what if it's primer. So what if it's flat black. Judging from the few before pictures and imaging what the "others" looked like before, the "RATTLE CAN" jobs make it look good and clean and that's what gets the attention am I right? I am thinking about trying some color and seeing what that does as mine is faded red and will turn a white rag pink when I wax it, and I have rust so I am looking at doing sanding, sealing, priming and painting. If I can do that for cheap then hell yeah, if not then I don't think it will look any worse than what it was and people will know that I at least tried rather than let it sit and get worse. Which is better, spending a couple hundred now to preserve what you can or spending a couple extra grand later to have to replace sheetmetal or do extra bodywork or both? Anyway, looks good guys!

krazefbird

well f it looks good!!!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Same mentality I had when I decided to go for it and fix/stop the rust on my Camaro. My family of course gave me the it looked good before who cares, you screwed up your car, its gonna look like ****, etc when I started replacing panels that were too far gone and sanding the old paint. The Cam was just in too much pain for me to leave it continue to rot. I had other ways of transportation and said **** it. I fixed most of the exterior rust and got the minor rust knife like cut holes from the floors fixed and did a layer of por-15. Right now its pretty much in the finals stages and its ready for paint whenever I get the $ together. If I needed it to be ready and it was my only DD, it would of been done a long time ago and probably would of been rolled and sanded to perfection to last me for a while.

Here is what she looked like about 2 months before I went and checked her in for rust damage in my Hospital ghetto garage.





Doesn't look that bad right? Just get the 4th vette wheel tired up, and off you go? Wrong!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Here is what you get if you look closely, also in the top pictures is when I did some rust work so it did not look that bad.





Thats just the outside


Anyways, Yea go for it man, don't let it get worse!

krazefbird

Yep, same situation here, got the little rust spots here and there around the fenders, on top of my windshield(that will take extra work). But yeah, the more I talk about it the more it costs which will take longer to come up with. I bought the car back in '99 and it looked good. Threw a set of chrome rims on it and it looked better. Waxed it and tuned it up on a weekly basis and it was great. 11 years later I am married and have kids which is very very good, but the car doesn't get the attention it used to but hey it still runs, I still have it, and I am using it right now cuz my 98 chrysler is hurt bad ha! LONG LIVE THE BIRD!!!!

krazefbird

can't really tell anything by my pic but that is my bird in it's current state.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

If I squint real hard I can make it out!

Post the bigger picture up!

sk8r fer life

Hey guys didn't get pics yet but heres a video of it instead, tell me what you think...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ficy81J4aE4

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Black primer right?

Looks good, I always thought RS plain hoods look too empty imo. Gladly my old beat up hood had heritage stripes.

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

Heres mine, Its just primer, and is temporary. Not rattle canned.

sk8r fer life

nope Its rustoleum flat black automotive paint XD

krazefbird

When I get it the way I want it I will put up the good stuff. Until then, I'll send you some glasses from the dollar store so you can see it better! HA!

wakeboardr42393

iTrader: (1)

actually, if you are using a basecoat/clearcoat paint system, you do put on the clear, except if you want a flat finish, there is an additive that is added into the clear and mixed before it it sprayed, which takes away the gloss look.

FormulaWolf

Do some google searches on how to auto paint. My quarter got smashed so I stripped off the paint, laid down some rattle primer and red rattle can paint then a can of clear. From 20ft away its hard to tell that there is a difference. 5 to 10ft you can see a texture difference. Wet sanding will smooth it out, so will hand glaze. Either way its going to be obvious that its rattle can but sometimes thats better than 20+ year old paint. If you have a good technique going with this fast drying paint you wont get the streaks. It takes practice to lay down a wet even coat, let it dry, wait then coat again. I'd strongly suggest comparing the difference in the cost of rattle cans vs compressor / paint gun / better quality paint in a can. If your doing this in your garage get some plastic drop from home depot or wall mart. Its only 5 dollars a pack roughly and large enough to cover a whole 1 car garage floor. Put this stuff on the floor, walls, ceiling even to keep dust out. If your painting outside.. umm good luck keeping things from flying by and sticking. A single leaf will tick you off.

If your still thinking about it you may wish to swing by borders, barns and nobel or what ever book store you have. Head to the auto section and look for a do it yourself paint and body book. I found a ton of great info in some 14 dollar book. It might inspire you to do a better job or give great money saving tips. I forget the name of this one book but it started out with a dude who had low funds but was willing to learn to paint his first car, first one he had owned.

haps

iTrader: (4)

A friendly piece of advice for all those that plan to rattle-can their cars for a temporary fix. You'll be adding $1000 to your final paint job(give or take a couple hundred) because all of the rattle-can paint needs to be stripped off in order for the good stuff to "stick". Yes, you can paint over it, but like a house, a paint job is only as good as it's foundation, and rattle-can paint does not make for a solid foundation. If you want a good flat/satin paint, look into SEM Hot Rod Black. You can use bc/cc with a flattening agent, but it's typically more expensive.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Who will be that lazy and let them do it and not save themselfs $1000?

krazefbird

So it is better to leave all the rust spots and have a crapy looking car than to take a sander and a spray can and make it look even.....got it. Then 15 years from now when I am retired I can spend $5,000 to replace all the rusted out panels and another $5,000 to get a decent paint job. Yeah that sounds good. Bring on the Social security checks!

haps

iTrader: (4)

I'll break it down a little simpler so you can understand. Don't use rattle-can anything to paint your car. Repair the rust and use a quality etch/epoxy/urethane primer that will stand up to the weather. There are many other options than the colorful spray can isle at Walmart. Thanks for the brilliant post.

92 Camaro

iTrader: (1)

that's ridiculous reasoning. it sounds like you're saying you would keep that primer when it goes in for a full paint job.
they do sell rattlecan self etch and I have used it. I actually didn't even use that a few years ago when I went over the whole car taking off little rust spots and it has held up NO PROBLEM to the weather and bad florida sun. and sands off just fine. and it looks a hell of a lot better with it being painted over with a matching color than your way that you mentioned. "just prime it" lol why?

krazefbird

I'm just sayin that the rattle can jobs are decent and yeah it beats takin it to Maaco or not being able to afford a real good paint job. Rattle can is fast, cheap, and easy. You are gonna spend a crapload when you get the real paint job done anyway so if you leave the prime it won't matter cause it will all have to get sanded off anyway right? Are you saying that you would paint over the factory paint? I sure wouldn't. If I'm spendin that much on a quality paint job, it better be stripped all the way, sealed primed and then painted. Would really suck to spend so much and then have some body cancer come from under the factory paint and ruin the whole thing.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Very, very, very rarely are new paint jobs stripped completely to bare metal, or urethane, then get a complete new paint job, as if they never ad one to start with. And if you do get that? That is because you paid the extra, extra, extra $$$$ to have it done that way.

radical82

Well, put me on the rarely list!!!! I won't consider doing paint work on a car if it doesn't go to bare metal first.... Ain't no way I'm going to put new materials over who knows what on a car...then guarantee the results!!!!! It's not all that rare to strip a car to bare metal prior to paint, quality shops are doing it every day!!!!!

PS--Don't bring up the collision shop way of doing things...I take a bit more pride in my ride then the shoot it and run to the bank with the money crowd!!!!

And my final PS would be for the primer crowd... Putting a car in primer then having it anywhere other then in a climate controlled shop is just slow death for the body...Primer has no UV or moisture protection, the primer can look great but it will allow moisture to travel through it and to the metal below where the real damage begins!!!!!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Really? There is a Firebird/Formula in the following street that has been parked at the same spot since we moved in this area. So about 8 years and well the guy who owns it seems to have just primered it and let it sit there while he continues to work on it. A few months ago he did some rear end work and I had some time to talk to him, The bird had no rust or anything bad with the car and he said all he did was sand it to bear metal, etch it and put 4 coats of primer. Even his floors were good. I will take pictures tomorrow, He wants to sell it and wants $500 for it or from me since he knows I will take care of it.

Still, I plan to keep my Camaro in primer for a few months but will be garage kept. I plan to shoot a sealer on it for now though. I will let you know if it rusts outs.

krazefbird

I didn't know that primer allowed moisture and uv to come thru, I thought that was the whole point of primer, to seal the metal to keep it from rusting?

radical82

Nope, primer is does little more then provide adhesion for the paint and fills a few sanding scratches. Does nothing for sealing the metal from moisture. All the paint manufacturers have data sheets and other information on their products...Makes for a good read and a lot fewer mistakes! Or, get hold of a company rep and he'll get you going on the right products and how they should be used.

krazefbird

That's why haps said to use etch and epoxy then right? That would act as some sealant if you are hell bent and determind to just use primer. Otherwise after you sand to bare metal you need to put sealer on it first and then prime and paint am I corect?

92 Camaro

iTrader: (1)

what? sealer comes after primer and paint (if repainting)

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

DacMan

'

Because for some reason people are consistantly stupid enough to buy it, thinking it's going to help them, which in some conditions is does, but in my opinion it's better left alone. And rattle cans (with the exception of a very slim few) are mostly a single stage enamal, or laquer in some rarer cases.

haps

iTrader: (4)

Bare metal, etch prime, epoxy prime, paint. There are intermediate primers that one can use like a polyester high build and the like. Sealer is after primer before paint and is optional. If I epoxy prime the entire vehicle I typically don't seal it as I don't see a benefit.

krazefbird

well geesh....glad we got that all cleared up. Now I won't have to roll in a primer grey ticking rust bomb! lol!

Brock Lee

Primer is usually just talc with pigments and a binder. Though spray bombs load the hell out of the stuff with retarders and flow out agents to thin the paint for aerosol atomization, and to help reduce fish eye and orange peel. This is why spray bombs take so much longer to dry.

I did this cheap black "sinister" primer look on my 69 Charger the first couple years I had it. There were areas I could see where the wind was wearing it down. It also allowed moisture in, though slowly. I painted it for real when I realized it was not protecting the metal like a real finish.

Robb Knight

Heres my rattle can job. Rattle can jobs do not hold up. Every day, month, year, it looks alittle worse. Especially since I daily drive the car. Hopefully I will be able to park it soon and fully restore her and give it a real paint job. She looks great in pics and from about 5-10 ft. When you get up close those, you can see all the paint defects. when I first got it though, it looked pro as hell. Honestly didnt look rattle canned. But driving it through, winter snow, all year round has destroyed it. Whoever decides to go rattle can. Keep in mind. It doesnt hold up well, especially if you drive it all year round.

Orinackra

even if you dont drive it, it looks worse. I've driven mine twice since I painted it, and I swear its fading already. I havent washed it either, it sits in the garage under a cover!
With that said, I still dont regret it, its way better than the primer I had before.

95 firebird

Here's my 85 before and after , I really liked the look of the flat black and got lots of compliments on it but I like it better in gloss black .

vinny83

mine took 35 bucks and 7 cans of paint, came out alright. it works until i can afford the artic white paint i want..

Necrocom4

iTrader: (3)

i did this to my beretta a few years ago. i will never do it again...



it was done in autozone duplicolor. the only reason i did it was because all the panels were 3 different shades of red.

RSFreak

I like this one! The early style nose with the later style gfx and SS hood look good.