funkdubie

here's the deal, my beloved feline scratched my car....ouch....i was able to get most of the scratches out using rubbing compound, now the spots are dull compared to the rest of the practically new paint. i have tried several different polishes with a cheapo buffer but there is still a drastic difference in the shiny....any suggestions?

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

wetsand, foam pads on a buffer...3m mocro coumpund...some glaze and some wax...should be good as new....

Sickness91Z28

iTrader: (1)

if your buffing out single stage....using just a foam pad will get you no where. If your just buffing it...you'll want to start with a wool pad...I would use "Perfect it III" rubbing compound. Then go to a white foam pad, use Perfect It III again, then use Swirl Mark Remover with a black foam pad. Lastly, a good polish for a deep, rich shine.

funkdubie

i would assume that this is not available at the local auto parts store?

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

welll you really dont need a wool pad...if you know what your doin...no need to cut it that much...but yeah...most of this stuff is not available at your local store...local body supply store has it...or jus take it to a local body shop...they cant charge you more then 50 bux for it....

Sickness91Z28

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to see a buff job not starting out with a wool pad on single stage paint. When single stage paint cures....it get VERY hard....unlike alot of your 2 stage paints. Meaning that if you don't use a rougher cut (wool pad) it will have a more hazy effect to it


What compounds are you using? What grit of sanding paper are you wetsanding with? Allll of these things matter when it comes to a showcar finish. Now, if your talking production cars...it's a different story.

When we do show cars, we lay down 4 coats of clear, then wetsand starting with 800. Agressive? Yes, BUT, it will get out every bit of orange peel in the clear. After that, we go to 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500. Talk about deep paint....it's unreal. Then, we buff starting out with a wool pad, using Perfect it III, then jump to a white foam pad, using Perfect it III, then a black foam pad, using swirl mark remover. Then finally a good hand polish.



Just try out what works best for you

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

to each its own i presume....every shop has their own tricks...me personally i hate wool pads...so i dont use them at my shop...jus finished a 67 rs/ss numbers matchin no wool pad....doin a 66 big block 4 speed vette numbers matchin....wont use wool on that either....but whatever floats your boat....

redfivexw

what sickness said is 100 percent, wool pad with some cutting creme, then foam pad with perfect it glaze and it will come out perfect. You will need a pro buffer