Paint and flex additive question
#1
Paint and flex additive question
Im getting my car ready to be painted in my garage, I was wondering which type of paint is the prefered type to use? I also heard that if you use a flexable primer you dont need to use the flex agent in the paint, is this true?Should I spray a clearcote? Any advice would be great. thanks
#2
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Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Some people damn clearcoats because they are very difficult to touch up in the future. Use flex in every coat of paint.
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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)
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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)
#3
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Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
I paint show cars for a living and have read all other opinions on this subject. What I have come up with, is only use the flexable primer, and the paint with the flex agent in it, only on the bumpers and the GFX. First off, the reason for this is when you use the primer, it is really thick. You should limit this to the parts that flex only. Then the flex agent makes the paint harder to color sand, and it WILL come out with alot of orange peel, no matter what.
I use urathane alot, and I love it. Enamel fades, and isn't as durable. Laquer was awesome, but for a daily driver, you can't go wrong with urathane. Whether you use clear coat, or not, your paint will shine. Clear coat actually makes touch up easier. Usually the clear is what is chipped by rocks and things, and then just a little clear fixes the problem.
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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4
I use urathane alot, and I love it. Enamel fades, and isn't as durable. Laquer was awesome, but for a daily driver, you can't go wrong with urathane. Whether you use clear coat, or not, your paint will shine. Clear coat actually makes touch up easier. Usually the clear is what is chipped by rocks and things, and then just a little clear fixes the problem.
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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4
#4
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Car: 89 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305
Transmission: NWC T-5
I use laquer paint, but it is very expensive, $200/gallon needing minimum of 2 gallons to complete the car.
I use flex in primer and paint only on the gfx or anything else that flexes a great deal.
For a daily driver use urethene paint, and save some money. I just like working with laquer and the gloss you can get out of it with a little extra work. Any questions I may be able to help and Stingerssx knows what he's talking about.
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1989 Camaro Convertible
dark silver w/black top
305tbi, auto, all stock
posi
Check out Phil's Rice Boy Page
[This message has been edited by 89RagTopRS (edited February 26, 2001).]
I use flex in primer and paint only on the gfx or anything else that flexes a great deal.
For a daily driver use urethene paint, and save some money. I just like working with laquer and the gloss you can get out of it with a little extra work. Any questions I may be able to help and Stingerssx knows what he's talking about.
------------------
1989 Camaro Convertible
dark silver w/black top
305tbi, auto, all stock
posi
Check out Phil's Rice Boy Page
[This message has been edited by 89RagTopRS (edited February 26, 2001).]
#5
Thanks, I really appreciate the advice, its hard to make a choice easily these days with all the different choices out there.My car will be pretty much a weekend driver so I think a middle of the road priced paint will do.Any advice on bringing out the shine after its sprayed?Thanks again everyone.
#6
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Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Wet sand using 600 grit with lots of soapy water. Then go over it with a finer paper. Then use meguires diamond cut on a rotory buffer then move to fine cut on a sponge buffer then glaze then wax. Wheeww... my arm is achin' already.
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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)
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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)
#7
Moderator
As far a good brand name, I personally have used Sikkens and have been very pleased with my paint finishes Stingerssx, any opinions on manufacturer?
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87 IROC 350 TPI with less than 10k original miles
www.users.uswest.net/~smoyer/iroc.htm
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87 IROC 350 TPI with less than 10k original miles
www.users.uswest.net/~smoyer/iroc.htm
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#8
I heard that laquer was no longer available to be used for some reason like fumes or airborn contaminants.Is this true? The two most popular brands I have heard of were PPG and Sherwin Williams.I guess you just need to ask at the place where you buy your paint what they recomend for your application and what you want it to look like as well as how long it lasts.
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